we'll see tomorrow!







enjoy!

 

Good work, but I'm not sure I understand your goals?

Your using short runners for boost, but your using a small plenum? Also from your sig your N/A.

Theres nothing wrong with the stock IM except for the way it flows and the bottle neck TB flange.




Is this manifold bench flowed? If so what are the results?

Got velocity stacks?

 

i guess my goal is to have something as close to an airram w/o paying the price...

i know that the stock manifold works fine but, i wanted to seek other options.

if i could have a manifold that performed slightly better than a ported IM, i'd be happy. plus i get to keep my strut bar!!!

even if it works the same as the stocker, to have an IM that nobody else has-... is still pretty cool.

i'm not boosted and i don't plan on it.

the reason the runners are short is because the radius of our tubing bender is not adjustable. and i wanted to keep my strut bar w/o having the IM stuck against my firewall.

i've accepted the fact that i will probably loose some low end torque but , i might also gain some in the higher rpms.

the plenum is slightly larger than stock.

my fabricated intake manifold is also smoother than the stock IM-... it's also ported to the cylinder head.

yes it does have velocity stacks!

no my IM has not been flow benched. it will be butt dyno'd-... and i'll see how it goes from there (in comparison to a 100% stock manifold)

tomorrow, i'm hoping to finish off the drilling and tapping and then install-... test!

 

I don't understand... why can't you use a strut bar? Are you saying IF you wanted to get an AIR RAM?

 

Yah the strut bars work with the stock intake manifold.

You might not see the same benefits from that as a boosted application would, if I were you i'd sell a couple of these for a few hundred less than an airram and then use the cash to buy an airram.

could we get a pic inside the TB and runner openings?

 

I think it needs something else. It just dosn't loook right. Maybe if you polished it and added a emlem it would look better. I can get you a laser etched emlem with adhesive backing about 8"x1" for about $15 shipped with any logo or picture you wish engraved on it. You may be able to get them at your mall for a bit more but it's doubtful that they will do custom graphics. I think those two suggestions could add quite a bit to your new pice.

 

keep in mind this is still kinda in the r&d process-...

what i'm saying is everybody who has an airram is not able to use a strut bar-... what i wanted was an IM that (hopefully) worked better than stock but, i'd still get to use my strut bar.

they do sand-blasting at my work-... i might go for a sand-blasted look on the out side (make it look like a cast manifold). i was also toying w/ the idea of putting the tiburon logo on the plenum.

or

i also was considering coating the outside w/ truck bed coating (yeah believe it or not)! it's help keep the temp down a little bit and it's a durable finish.

what some of you guys may not realize is that polished aluminm parts (cai, airram, thottle body) will actually absorb more heat than a cast/sandblasted or coated part would. the heat will then heat up your intake charge.

i'm not a fan of the airram intake manifold-... i've never had one. if the price was right (under $500) i'd consider buying one.

i don't like the fact that you cannot use a strut bar w/ the airram, or the bling finish to it (i hate chrome/polished aluminum look). i've heard the fitment isn't that great w/ the airram.

anyways i'm gonna tap for the fittings and install!

 

well folks, here's how it is!

install-... i finished drilling and tapping for the fittings. i took off the dirty stocker and stared to install my new intake manifold. everything was fitting quite nice untill it was time to put the fuel rail in. the fuel rail sits quite snug against the plenum-... i actually had to cut a small tab off of the stock fuel rail (the tab helps support the return line). once that was out of the way i realized that the injector harness could not be run over runner # 4. i was forced to run the harness between runners #4 & #3. that was my main battle as far as fitment goes. i also ran short on room for the IAC so unfortunately the IAC is sitting against my firewall. i only had to replace 2 of the stock vacuum hoses in order for my IM to fit properly

test drive-... i started up my car and it was a heck of a relief to hear it run after working on it all day. at idle the tone of the engine sounded alot like stock. i waited for the engine to warm up before i took her out for a spin. my first impressions as i drove it away, was that i did definately loose some power down low (which was to be expected w/ the shorter runners). driving it i could definately hear the incoming air "whosh" as the needle climbed the rpms. between 1k rpm and 3k rpm, it feels like the car is not doing very much (a little less torque than stock to be blunt). from 3k rpm to 4,500 rpm you can feel the engine start to build power (i'm gonna say this is probbably the work of the CAI over my IM). now from 4,500 rpms to redline the car just absolutely screams! from 4,5000 on up you can really hear the flow difference.

overall-... i'm pretty happy! i feel that i've reached my goal. yes i did loose some power down low but i believe the top end power more than makes up for it! i'm still able to utilize my strut bar but i'm seeing results similair to turbo elements tim's manifold (as it was described) and that of the airram (as it was described). i wouldn't mind fab'ing up another intake manifold for other members to compare and contrast the IM's available to us (ported oem, tim's moded, and airram) but, it's gonna take some time. i kinda need a bit of a break from staying at work for my own projects. i definately am going to look into making the runners a bit longer.

i'll continue to make updates-... as this is only after one day of driving and i still need to check the carbon on my spark plugs.

 

Where are the pictures?


Also, AirRams and strut bars do work. There are almost 70% of people that have AirRam and strut bar together.

 

nice welds and i envy you for doing this. a lot of people don't give credit for attacking something on their own and trying to save some serious cash.

i will say it looks great but if you're losing power down low that's a drawback. the airram gives you both low and more high. it's not a huge difference nor is it worth $700, but if you're desperate and want an N/A Tiburon to drive your butt to wherever for the next 10 years then it's worth it.

i would recommend making another one, and keep doing that until it's perfected. i know it probably takes up months of work, but i'm stubborn and i would devote god knows how many hours to get it done the way it needs.

good luck.