Wideband 02
12-12-2006, 07:39 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2001/Hyundai/Tiburon
but i could put it in the cat tho and be able to kill 2 birds iwth one stone haha, (getting a high flow cat, and having a place for the wideband to read from) sounds good to me lol
12-12-2006, 07:45 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tampa/St Petersburg
Posts: 4,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: Turbocharged 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
I talked to a guy about it who races and builds modified cars, he said it should be 1-3 feet from your 1st bank o2 sensor and not after the cat, because youll get a slightly modified afr and itll be delayed ever so slightly.
And ham those dyno o2 sensors are made to read the afr from the tailpipe, hence not needing to be as hot or as close to the engine as o2 sensors you install permanatly
And ham those dyno o2 sensors are made to read the afr from the tailpipe, hence not needing to be as hot or as close to the engine as o2 sensors you install permanatly
12-12-2006, 08:01 PM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2001/Hyundai/Tiburon
so then essentially, 1-3 feet, it coudl be the bung in the cat, its right before it i believe, atleast in the 9100 series or w/e that redz had put up
12-12-2006, 08:31 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 4,722
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
Well yah, the dyno o2 sensors take less heat to become conductive.
As said, an o2 sensor works by reading the level of oxygen in the exhaust. Oxygen isn't going to magically disappear out of the piping, as long as the o2 sensor gets enough heat to work properly (Most are ~600 degrees to become fully active I believe...). This is with it not going through a cat obviously. Catalytic convertors, during some breakdown of nitrogen mostly, release oxygen. Having the probe after the cat would bring up some problems anyway.
If the bung for the cat is at the front of the cat before the main catalysts then I wouldn't see a problem wiht using it.
As said, an o2 sensor works by reading the level of oxygen in the exhaust. Oxygen isn't going to magically disappear out of the piping, as long as the o2 sensor gets enough heat to work properly (Most are ~600 degrees to become fully active I believe...). This is with it not going through a cat obviously. Catalytic convertors, during some breakdown of nitrogen mostly, release oxygen. Having the probe after the cat would bring up some problems anyway.
If the bung for the cat is at the front of the cat before the main catalysts then I wouldn't see a problem wiht using it.
12-12-2006, 08:34 PM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2001/Hyundai/Tiburon
O ok, thx man... o another thought, what if i put the wide band in the header spot (since i drilled a bung in for my 1st o2 sensor), then moved that one down to the header down pipe, then the one that was in the header down pipe (2nd o2 sensor) i put in the cat... would that f up the ecu?
12-12-2006, 08:38 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 4,722
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
Well, the first o2 sensor location bung for my car on my Maintec Race Headers is all the way at the bottom near the flex pipe... and I've had no problems. I threw an o2 heater circuit code randomly twice in 7 months, but it went away on its own both times so I don't know if its related.
I'd just get the PLX, run the narrowband output to the stock ECU, and the wideband output for your gauge in the first sensor. No drilling, no problems.
I'd just get the PLX, run the narrowband output to the stock ECU, and the wideband output for your gauge in the first sensor. No drilling, no problems.