Wheel Stud
04-04-2005, 07:19 AM
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This weekend I had a wheel stud break. Ended up going to the dealer and picking up a new one. They are actually pretty easy to replace. All you have to take off is the caliper and the caliper mount. Then it is simply a task of knocking the old one out then knocking the new one in. One thing I noticed is that the new stud seems to be about 1/8" shorter than the other studs. There is still plently of thread that the lug gets to hold onto but wanted some opinions on wether this would mess anything up?
04-04-2005, 09:44 AM
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You sure its seated all the way?
BTW, for those of you with captive rotors, it aint this easy. It will probably be cheaper to convert to the later 2000+ setup as the entire hub/brake assembly has to come apart since the hub is sandwiched between the spindle and rotor (someone PLEASE correct me and tell me this is wrong btw, as I know I'll end up breaking one this season).
BTW, for those of you with captive rotors, it aint this easy. It will probably be cheaper to convert to the later 2000+ setup as the entire hub/brake assembly has to come apart since the hub is sandwiched between the spindle and rotor (someone PLEASE correct me and tell me this is wrong btw, as I know I'll end up breaking one this season).
04-04-2005, 09:49 AM
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Yeah that was the strange part. It was seated all of the way. I actually bought 2 and held the old broken one up to the spare new one. You could definately see the 1/8 inch difference. They guy at the dealer I got these from wasnt too bright to say the least. They could very well be the ones from the rear. Beats me. It worked and now I dont have to worry about atleast this. Anyway for everyones information the torque specs on an RD2 with A/A rims is 66-81 Ft/lbs on the lugs.
04-04-2005, 09:57 AM
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04-04-2005, 11:43 AM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (skierd @ Apr 4 2005, 11:44 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>You sure its seated all the way?
BTW, for those of you with captive rotors, it aint this easy. It will probably be cheaper to convert to the later 2000+ setup as the entire hub/brake assembly has to come apart since the hub is sandwiched between the spindle and rotor (someone PLEASE correct me and tell me this is wrong btw, as I know I'll end up breaking one this season).
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>
Yeah, for sure, unless you have a big enough press to remove and install the bearing again, just do the swap to Non-captive.
BTW, for those of you with captive rotors, it aint this easy. It will probably be cheaper to convert to the later 2000+ setup as the entire hub/brake assembly has to come apart since the hub is sandwiched between the spindle and rotor (someone PLEASE correct me and tell me this is wrong btw, as I know I'll end up breaking one this season).
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>
Yeah, for sure, unless you have a big enough press to remove and install the bearing again, just do the swap to Non-captive.