SuPaDuPa

the best ive got to befor nitrouswas 16.52....give it a try....my dyno without nitrous was 127 hp 120 flb torque......I am also running a track not more than a 80 ft above sea level its right next to the ocean with 17 inch wheels and tires.....I ran with 14 inch tires and got a 15.01 @ 92 mph lots of spinning

OdessitPashka

Sounds good man smile.gif why dry kit?

Slipstream

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (OdessitPashka)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SlipStream)</div><div class='quotemain'>that fact is even if your foot is all the way to the ground it isnt going to shift at the redline. how ever you personally can over ride that, sport shifting it, you can drive it till it bounces off the rev limiter, so you can squeeze a few more rpms out of it before shifting which should shave atleast a tenth or 2 off your et

edit: you dont actually want to drive it till it hits the rev limiter but shift just as its about to bounce, putting it in standard drive your car will not shift that high.</div>
Hmmm, no.... you do not want to shift anywhere past 6000rpms.... its just pointless to let rpms just rise. Our power band is from 4000-6000rpms or so, you want to keep it somewhere in between.</div>


im really not going to argue but there is not a set powerband, the more mods you do and depending on how your car is set up your power band is different. i.e. 4-1 headers vs 4-2-1 your power band is totaly different, so you can't say its 4-6k. add cams and it will change again.

now you can say all you want that going beyond 6k is useless, fine for you maybe if you had a few mods done to your auto trany you might think different. but i've done alot of dragging and i have time slips to show that atleast i am faster by a few tenths shifting it my self vs. full auto.

the judging of the scope of a powerband or preference of shifting is purely circumstancial.

rising beyond 6k is fine and if you try it i bet you'll be slightly faster, your power band wont lop off after 6k but more or less evens off or drops slightly, how ever if you shift to early depending on how your car is setup you'll be shifting into a point before your even back into the major part of your power band and that alone would slow you down slightly.

OdessitPashka

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SlipStream)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (OdessitPashka)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SlipStream)</div><div class='quotemain'>that fact is even if your foot is all the way to the ground it isnt going to shift at the redline. how ever you personally can over ride that, sport shifting it, you can drive it till it bounces off the rev limiter, so you can squeeze a few more rpms out of it before shifting which should shave atleast a tenth or 2 off your et

edit: you dont actually want to drive it till it hits the rev limiter but shift just as its about to bounce, putting it in standard drive your car will not shift that high.</div>
Hmmm, no.... you do not want to shift anywhere past 6000rpms.... its just pointless to let rpms just rise. Our power band is from 4000-6000rpms or so, you want to keep it somewhere in between.</div>


im really not going to argue but there is not a set powerband, the more mods you do and depending on how your car is set up your power band is different. i.e. 4-1 headers vs 4-2-1 your power band is totaly different, so you can't say its 4-6k. add cams and it will change again.

now you can say all you want that going beyond 6k is useless, fine for you maybe if you had a few mods done to your auto trany you might think different. but i've done alot of dragging and i have time slips to show that atleast i am faster by a few tenths shifting it my self vs. full auto.

the judging of the scope of a powerband or preference of shifting is purely circumstancial.</div>

Well, just like you I've done a lot of dragging, that's why I'm a drag racing mod. And I'm justing from my own experiece as well.

Slipstream

fair enough

SuPaDuPa

I had orderd a wet kit from my friends speed shop for our first local track import weekend last summer. I never got the kit till the friday I had to leave (its a 3 hr drive) and they sent the dry kit buy accedent so I said f**k it and installed it anyway and left right from the shop no regrets realy.....glad I upgraded the fuel pump to though deffitly need to do that for the 75 shoot dry.I was realy surprised the auto tranny held up with that much hp but the 5 speed is going in soon thank god laugh.gif

zoned019

actually i just realized something, rather than sport shifting and shifting just before the limiter, you could just have it floored in Drive with the ECT on POWER, isn't that what that is meant for?

sharkev

Ok... so for last what is the best wa to do it??..... start with L and then change to 2 and finally shift to D... right??.... because try to shift with the pedal of gas first press , let and hten press again I dont see a good thing, i just think that iñm gnna have more time instead less time..... but i´ve never tried that... so...

who has tried the best way....?? what is the best way...

only like two people told here the way that everyone has tried..... anyone has an auto and has ran in the 1/8...?? what´s the time with what mods?!?!

thanks

Kit-Fox

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CyberShark)</div><div class='quotemain'>It would be nice if it was possible to add a stall converter.</div>

how much do those go for? and any idea if those fit generic wise or do they have to be a specific model?

Mad-Machine

well.. a stall converter is nothing more than a torque converted with a raised stall speed.. meaning that it locks up tight to the engine at a higher RPM.. this allows the engine to get into the meat of it's powerband before it is able to apply all of it's horsepower and torque to the transmission.. sort of like sidestepping the clutch at high rpms instead of slowly letting it out as you apply the gas..

and I am pretty sure that somebody makes a high torque converted that locks up at a higher RPM for us.