What is the best way to start with an automatic......??
#41
actually header is one of the best mods you could do for a buck smile.gif
I think header would give about 4-7whp, which is pretty good.
did you get 14.83 at the track or w/ g tech?
I think header would give about 4-7whp, which is pretty good.
did you get 14.83 at the track or w/ g tech?
#44
Re: Alpine supercharger....anybody have one???
there is alot you can do to an auto trany to increase performance.
recalibrate your valve body and enlarge the ports
install a shift kit
main vein preasure regulator
lsd
bullet proffing
adjusting the stall and bulletproofing your torque convertor. to start.
when dragging in general first and foremost have proper tire preasures! roughly 25psi in front and 35 psi in back is a good start for fwd cars. if your on street tires you don't want to warm your tires in the burnout pit, it'll slow you down because the compounds aren't ment for that. just drive around it and line up. finaly TURN EVERYTHING OFF! no a/c, fans or electrical that isnt needed, all that stuff running makes the engine work harder on other things other then putting power to the wheels.
at the line. holding the ebrake is pointless and will actually slow your reaction time down. neither is holding the brake and reving it up to 6k, revving that high will cause you to loose traction off the line and increase your 60ft times.
so what is the best thing to do. hold your foot brake down and keep a steady rev between 2 and 3k, it'll put you in a good part of the power band and will start off in a point where your tires wont spin out so much.
now that your off the line whats the best way to shift? well its upto you, i know some people on here say don't sport shift for various reasons, how ever if you know how to shift and shift it just before it hits the rev limiter then you'll be running better times then if you let it just go on its own BUT you have to catch it right and that comes with practice as for damage, its non existant, especialy if you have any of the forementioned mods done.
recalibrate your valve body and enlarge the ports
install a shift kit
main vein preasure regulator
lsd
bullet proffing
adjusting the stall and bulletproofing your torque convertor. to start.
when dragging in general first and foremost have proper tire preasures! roughly 25psi in front and 35 psi in back is a good start for fwd cars. if your on street tires you don't want to warm your tires in the burnout pit, it'll slow you down because the compounds aren't ment for that. just drive around it and line up. finaly TURN EVERYTHING OFF! no a/c, fans or electrical that isnt needed, all that stuff running makes the engine work harder on other things other then putting power to the wheels.
at the line. holding the ebrake is pointless and will actually slow your reaction time down. neither is holding the brake and reving it up to 6k, revving that high will cause you to loose traction off the line and increase your 60ft times.
so what is the best thing to do. hold your foot brake down and keep a steady rev between 2 and 3k, it'll put you in a good part of the power band and will start off in a point where your tires wont spin out so much.
now that your off the line whats the best way to shift? well its upto you, i know some people on here say don't sport shift for various reasons, how ever if you know how to shift and shift it just before it hits the rev limiter then you'll be running better times then if you let it just go on its own BUT you have to catch it right and that comes with practice as for damage, its non existant, especialy if you have any of the forementioned mods done.
#45
Re: Fuel Injector Question
slipstream, I was saying many things from my own experience and there is damage when you do anything to your tranny besides putting it in drive.
And I think I'd know how to shift my auto since I've done it so many times on the street, and it still didn't do any good at the track. Explain to me how is it better? you can't shift faster than computer....
And I think I'd know how to shift my auto since I've done it so many times on the street, and it still didn't do any good at the track. Explain to me how is it better? you can't shift faster than computer....
#46
Re: Scariest Hyundai Owner *WORK WARNING, NSFW*
that fact is even if your foot is all the way to the ground it isnt going to shift at the redline. how ever you personally can over ride that, sport shifting it, you can drive it till it bounces off the rev limiter, so you can squeeze a few more rpms out of it before shifting which should shave atleast a tenth or 2 off your et
edit: you dont actually want to drive it till it hits the rev limiter but shift just as its about to bounce, putting it in standard drive your car will not shift that high.
edit: you dont actually want to drive it till it hits the rev limiter but shift just as its about to bounce, putting it in standard drive your car will not shift that high.
#47
Re: A little birdie just told me....
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SlipStream)</div><div class='quotemain'>that fact is even if your foot is all the way to the ground it isnt going to shift at the redline. how ever you personally can over ride that, sport shifting it, you can drive it till it bounces off the rev limiter, so you can squeeze a few more rpms out of it before shifting which should shave atleast a tenth or 2 off your et
edit: you dont actually want to drive it till it hits the rev limiter but shift just as its about to bounce, putting it in standard drive your car will not shift that high.</div>
Hmmm, no.... you do not want to shift anywhere past 6000rpms.... its just pointless to let rpms just rise. Our power band is from 4000-6000rpms or so, you want to keep it somewhere in between.
edit: you dont actually want to drive it till it hits the rev limiter but shift just as its about to bounce, putting it in standard drive your car will not shift that high.</div>
Hmmm, no.... you do not want to shift anywhere past 6000rpms.... its just pointless to let rpms just rise. Our power band is from 4000-6000rpms or so, you want to keep it somewhere in between.
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Edmonton/Halifax Canada
Posts: 265
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Re: **Not work safe? German forklift educational video
my car: 99 tiburon se blondomatic
my mods: zex dry kit 75 hp shot
AEM cai
xd intake cam
4-2-1 header
high flow cat with 2.25 inch catback and exaust
yes i have time slips.......oh yea I got dyno sheets to
check my stuff on Hyundai performance .com I am DoubleJ there its all in my profile dude
:twisted:
my mods: zex dry kit 75 hp shot
AEM cai
xd intake cam
4-2-1 header
high flow cat with 2.25 inch catback and exaust
yes i have time slips.......oh yea I got dyno sheets to
check my stuff on Hyundai performance .com I am DoubleJ there its all in my profile dude
:twisted:
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ashland, KY
Posts: 4,244
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Vehicle: 2001/Hyundai/Tiburon
Re: Went on a Door Ding/Dent Hunt
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SuPaDuPa)</div><div class='quotemain'>my car: 99 tiburon se blondomatic
my mods: zex dry kit 75 hp shot
AEM cai
xd intake cam
4-2-1 header
high flow cat with 2.25 inch catback and exaust
yes i have time slips.......oh yea I got dyno sheets to
check my stuff on Hyundai performance .com I am DoubleJ there its all in my profile dude
:twisted:</div>
http://hyundaiperformance.com/members/prof...ile.php?m=11679
no time sheets.. no dyno charts :?:
my mods: zex dry kit 75 hp shot
AEM cai
xd intake cam
4-2-1 header
high flow cat with 2.25 inch catback and exaust
yes i have time slips.......oh yea I got dyno sheets to
check my stuff on Hyundai performance .com I am DoubleJ there its all in my profile dude
:twisted:</div>
http://hyundaiperformance.com/members/prof...ile.php?m=11679
no time sheets.. no dyno charts :?:
#50
Re: CS players?
I have auto XD with the same mods, just no cam, and the best I've ever done was 16.6 or something and it's just hard to believe that 75shots would shave off almost 2 seconds.... maybe it did, but I just think our autos are very slow.