Androoo

Hi guys,

Something has been puzzling me over the last few days, and, after looking around I cant quite seem to get a conclusive answer;

But what, if any would be the benefits on adapting an intake kit to have 2 air filters running? The idea i have in my head is for a Y bracnch adaptor running on the end of my SRI so be able to fit 2 cone filters.

I dont know if this is a dumb idea, or perhaps even if theres an obvious answer why this shouldnt be done, but can anyone shed any light on this?

So far I have 58mm tb (im ported to match, SRI, i8acobras 252 catcams, smt6, 4-2-1 headers and 2.5" catback with sports cat and adjustable exhaust sprocket - and only reaching 142whp.

So, i thought, why not find a means to get more air flowing into the engine?

As it would be on the end of a SRI, could this theoretically work in order to help pump more air in? As ive done the other bits along the way im sure it could handle some more flow smile.gif

(PS: as a side edit, im running AFR around 12.2 through out the range at WOT, is this unusually rich? 95 octane... i was told that it didnt make any more power to lean out further, could this be true?)

SOCKS_old

imo, dumb idea...

N/A, your never gonna need anything more than a properly flowing intake.. i would scrap the SRI for a CAI though like an AEM.

get an AEM, its a 3" pipe, with a good filter.. gonna be about the best you can do for an N/A intake.

FYI, you don't 'pump' any air into an N/A motor, its just sucking air into the car. your never going to suck more air in than a good cone filter can flow.

get the car tuned, at WOT thats way to rich for a car thats not boosted.. not gonna really harm anything, but its hurting your power.

Androoo

Sorry - bad use of wording there cool.gif

Only thing is - without a filter, dyno results are even better due to more air being sucked... so perhaps having 2 filters might help to increase nearer to this optimum amount?

We've got a dyno day arranged in a couple of weeks so I was wondering whether its worth throwing something together or not to test on the rollers.....

Thanks for the clairfication on the AFR - that is the "tuned" values, and i did question it at the time, but they insisted thats the best figures i was ever going to get sad.gif but ever since it hasnt seemed right.....

SOCKS_old

what were the differences on the dyno with and without a filter?

why not throw a CAI on the car?

before i even pondered the 'two-filter' route, i would look for a better flowing single filter, and a CAI..

what cone filter do you have on the car?

reason i don't see two filters helping (if they are the same kind of filter)

filter provides X amount of restriction; regardless if its a 3$ filter or a 100$ filter, theres SOME restriction.. your car is sucking in Y amount of air.. so with filter on, the car is getting Y-X of air, and when filter is off, its getting Y.

of course when you take the filter off, it will gain some, because theres NO restriction. but the way i see it, by adding another filter, your just adding the same restriction, twice.. what im saying, is your not OUTFLOWING the possibilities of one good filter, so why look into two?

duno if that all made sense, but it did in my head. haha


as far as the tuning numbers, why would they insist those are the best numbers? because they didn't wanna spend more time on it, or what.. those AFR's are what boosted guys wanna run at WOT to prevent detonation and compensate for all the extra air.. a 'tuned' N/A motor should not be that rich.

Androoo

sorry man I cant remember the figures off the top of my head (i didnt do it, but can do if its of any use?)

Yeah, thats a good point you have there - i didnt think about it that way.....

I had a 3" CAI on the car a while back, but found that throttle responce (well, the initial 0.00002 second) wasnt as great... could easily be a placebo - and cropped it down to a SRI. Its just a bog standard shiney silver kinda thing (great description i know) with a universal cone filter on the end.

I have contemplated an AEM in the past, but im just not sure whether I can justify the cost for a potentially very small gain over the filter I have at the moment. Perhaps i'll invest in the AEM filter, as ive seen on here what a great rep they have and go from there....

SOCKS_old

o, i wouldn't buy an actual AEM, just a 1/4 price knockoff.. same design, same size, same power gain.

your SRI is going to be affected by heat more than a CAI, which in turn, is going to affect power.. if your looking to get every ounce of power, go with an AEM style CAI.

for a filter, i would start with a K&N, as they flow really well and aren't that much $$ (~40$ US) although, if your filter seems to flow well, i wouldn't both changing it, just change the pipe.

is your filter like this?

Androoo

Thats the one - spot on!

Is there something a bit rubbish about these in particular?

SOCKS_old

nope, keep it.. i have used those same, cheap filters for a while now..

i noticed NO difference in feel of the car or mpg when i switched my filter from K&N to this cheap style.

i also used the SAME cheap style on my turbo tiburon for over 2 years with no issues.

my final recommendation to you for your intake.. buy an AEM style pipe, and throw that filter on the end of it. will give you about the best flow you can get as far as intakes go. if your still not satisfied, look into further IM work.

how much work has been done to your IM? just matching to 58mm? extrude hone? cleaned up? runners port matched?

142whp from that setup seems a tad low, but then again, tibs do have a shitty flowing head. how was the car 'tuned'? cams dialed in? ignition played with at all, or just fueling?

Androoo

sounds a plan fing02.gif

The im was gasket matched to the ports, and to the tb, but thats about it really...

I bought a spare cylinder head, and took it to a very reputable company, and after a good hour of inspecting it and stripping it down, they insisted that they didnt want to take my money as unless im going for serious power (FI) then there was no point doing any work apart from cleaning up the exhaust ports! And there was me standing there with £1000 and a spare head but they insisted it wasnt worth it for what i was doing! (as the cams are relativly mild)

The ignition was done aswell - but with the limitations on the hyundai ecu they said they could only get 2 degrees advance (about 10% iirc) before it all went a bit funny and had a turn - i guess that was hyundais limitations? Cams i believe were dialed in, with the adjustable exhaust sprocket - but it just seems a little low.... im off work sick at the moment but when i get back i'll try and scan my graph in to show you - the AFR line is pretty linear, and they insisted that no more could be got out of it, but now a few weeks later i cant help but ponder if theres anything else i could do....

Thanks for the help/advice fing02.gif

hamhead

By adding the Y pipe you'd just be adding a restriction to the air path.

If dyno results are better with no filter instead of one, why would you think they'd improve with two?