Tool Recomendations
#11
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southern Oh
Posts: 811
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 1999 Hyundai Tiburon
so far, on my tools Ive used daily, Stanley is a great tool brand. there relatively cheap, last pretty long, and are sold at most Wal-Marts. flaws, however, include easily broken ratchets, allens/torques heads are weak and twist, as do the torque bits, and the looks you get for using Stanley brand. the look your used to (for driving a Hyundai), all ratchets end up breaking with daily use, and most allens/torques flex bend and break after heavy usage.
quality on more expensive items, however is key, especially on steps. if your torque wrench breaks i the middle of a job, you may as well un-torque everything and do it all again when you get another wrench (most likely was not right anyway, if broke).
quality on more expensive items, however is key, especially on steps. if your torque wrench breaks i the middle of a job, you may as well un-torque everything and do it all again when you get another wrench (most likely was not right anyway, if broke).
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: uhm..... N/A
Seriously you can pick up a click type AM Pro (advanced auto) torque wrench for like 32$ or so with a life time warrentee and thats 10 to 150 ftlbs. Secondly for the little 3/8" torque I know people might hate harbor freight tools but if your only going to use it a few times go spend like 10$ there on it and it will do its job I have bought both my 1/2" and 3/8" torque wrench and compaired them with snap on and they are accurate as all hell the guy with the snap on truck has a calibration machine that I have had my cheepos tested and they are accurate at .00028 per ftlb so I would say just buy them from there and they come with a limited life time warrentee too
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Western PA
Posts: 2,087
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2001 Tiburon
Easy guys. I have mostly craftsman at home as well. Im finding thou that they are cutting corners and do not feel as quality as they once did. I took a socket wrench and got it replaced to be disappointed that the one i received feel lighter and not have a good quality feel. They even look diffrent, same part number though.
Anyhow, I'm from the camp that you buy a good tool once then a cheap tool twice. Thank you all for your suggestions and comments.
Feel free to make comments about my statement for craftsmen.
Anyhow, I'm from the camp that you buy a good tool once then a cheap tool twice. Thank you all for your suggestions and comments.
Feel free to make comments about my statement for craftsmen.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Posts: 34,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
DTN is a tool, I recommend him.
I'm a craftsman fan, of course designs change over the years, but the warranty doesnt.
I'm a craftsman fan, of course designs change over the years, but the warranty doesnt.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got 3 torque wrenches; 2 of them I bought 'cause they were on sale:
1. a mastercraft 4 - 29.4Nm (~ 3 - 21 ft/lbs) click-type, 3/8"
2. a mastercraft 30 - 340Nm (~ 21 - 250ft/lbs) click-type, 1/2"
3. no-name brand 0 - 340Nm (0 - 250ft/lbs) dial-type, 3/8"
if I had to buy one (and just one!) all over again, I'd go with a click-type, and all the way up until 250ft/lbs.
dial-type:
(there's a dial/scale on the wrench, and as you torque, a needle moves. You stop torquing when the needle gets to the desired torque measure)
pros:
- you get to visually see how much more strength you have to apply until you're there
- you don't spend time having to pre-set your required torque on the wrench; just start using it right away.
- no calibration needs to be done, after some time.
- let's say there's a nut/bolt you need to remove from your car and you don't have the manual (so you don't know how much you need to torque that nut/bolt back on), removing that bolt/nut with the needle-type torque wrench will give you an idea of how much you will need to torque it back in
- cost-wise, it's cheaper
cons:
- the dial/scale is a bit wide and sometimes other parts get in the way, so you don't have a full swing
- it has a larger margin of error the higher up you go in torque (when the needle points at a specific torque, it's not really 100% accurate)
- if the needle twists, the wrench is not that useful anymore because you won't be able to accurately tell when you've reached a certain torque
click-type:
(you twist something close to the handle so as to set the torque that you need. Then, when applying torque to a bolt/nut, you will hear a click; the bolt/nut is now torqued to what you specified)
pros:
- very accurate
- no needle to twist, no scale to get in the way
cons:
- you have to get it calibrated after some good use (or misuse)
- it's hard to know how much more before that bolt/nut is finally torqued
- it's hard to tell how much torque you actually applied to remove a bolt/nut (this info can sometimes help to get an idea of how much torque that bolt-nut will need when you're putting things back in).
- you have to spend a few minutes pre-setting the torque before you can use it
- more expensive
1. a mastercraft 4 - 29.4Nm (~ 3 - 21 ft/lbs) click-type, 3/8"
2. a mastercraft 30 - 340Nm (~ 21 - 250ft/lbs) click-type, 1/2"
3. no-name brand 0 - 340Nm (0 - 250ft/lbs) dial-type, 3/8"
if I had to buy one (and just one!) all over again, I'd go with a click-type, and all the way up until 250ft/lbs.
dial-type:
(there's a dial/scale on the wrench, and as you torque, a needle moves. You stop torquing when the needle gets to the desired torque measure)
pros:
- you get to visually see how much more strength you have to apply until you're there
- you don't spend time having to pre-set your required torque on the wrench; just start using it right away.
- no calibration needs to be done, after some time.
- let's say there's a nut/bolt you need to remove from your car and you don't have the manual (so you don't know how much you need to torque that nut/bolt back on), removing that bolt/nut with the needle-type torque wrench will give you an idea of how much you will need to torque it back in
- cost-wise, it's cheaper
cons:
- the dial/scale is a bit wide and sometimes other parts get in the way, so you don't have a full swing
- it has a larger margin of error the higher up you go in torque (when the needle points at a specific torque, it's not really 100% accurate)
- if the needle twists, the wrench is not that useful anymore because you won't be able to accurately tell when you've reached a certain torque
click-type:
(you twist something close to the handle so as to set the torque that you need. Then, when applying torque to a bolt/nut, you will hear a click; the bolt/nut is now torqued to what you specified)
pros:
- very accurate
- no needle to twist, no scale to get in the way
cons:
- you have to get it calibrated after some good use (or misuse)
- it's hard to know how much more before that bolt/nut is finally torqued
- it's hard to tell how much torque you actually applied to remove a bolt/nut (this info can sometimes help to get an idea of how much torque that bolt-nut will need when you're putting things back in).
- you have to spend a few minutes pre-setting the torque before you can use it
- more expensive