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Timing Belt Change Notes, Thoughts And Follow Up

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Old 12-10-2007, 06:22 PM
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I did not know if i should have added this to the DIY or make a new topic. Please merge if applicable.

\This weekend i followed Diy: Timing Belt Change, Patreezy's Take !!(over 50 pics)!!
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=16745
along with a SFR 2.0 Timing belt kit.

It took me 2 days but i was taking my time and my friend bailed on me. Good think i am lucky enough to have a grandfather still around. For those of you who have A/C this DIY can be used still as the belt for the A/C is very straight forward to change.

some comments on the steps

Step 7: correct size is 15/16 for the power steering pump.
I really could not figure out a way to take the hoses off without getting power steering fluid everywhere. Suggestion is to put rags down first and then remove the hoses so that your work surface does not get covered in PS fluid.

step 15: THERE HAS GOT TO BE A SPECIAL TOOL TO DO THIS. 10 mm wrenches are very small and there is very little room to work with. after loosening one of the bolts remove it 1/2 way and then use a long screw driver as leverage to hold the pulley against another bolt to remove the other bolts.(he was the one who took the bolts off. Wise old man)

Step 19: The ac compressor pulley makes it extremely difficult to remove this part. I did not remove this part but removing and reinstalling the lower timing belt cover is very difficult but can be done. Tossup on if removing the A/C compressor to remove piece.
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h288/Pat...lt/PICT0075.jpg
The AC Compressor is right where his hand is and there is no room to use the ratchet.

step 23: This is where having a 2nd person is nice, i suppose you could use a jack to push up the engine to remove the long bolt that goes through the bushing. just easy to push up on the engine and have someone take the bolt out.

step 27: This is a trail by fire. Setting the timing requires some thinking and planning. Best bet is to remove the camshaft cover and use the red mark and the hole on the camshaft pulley.
Once the camshaft is set setting the crankshaft is fairly easy. NOTE: even if you have the mark on the engine block and camshaft set double check cylinder one (the one closest to the timing belt. It is possible to have the Pistons 180 degrees off. The timing needs set to have piston one at TDC. Easy way to check is to grab a long screwdriver, remove the spark plug and check to see if the piston is all the way down or at the top. If you have the crankshaft mark alligned and your screwdriver goes in a long ways rotate the crankshaft a full CLOCKWISE turn realigning the timing marks and check that you are now at TDC.



Questions

If anyone knows if there is a special tool for taking off the water pump pulley for this please let me know. This is by far one of the most time consuming tasks. Not for those that have very little patience. Or, if you have a fast way of doing this please let me know.


I hope this adds some clarity and helps people out. It can be a daunting task but do the research, take your time and follow the directions and you will be fine.
Old 12-10-2007, 07:44 PM
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A strap wrench will probably hold the pulley if there's enough room (doubted). I honestly don't remember it giving me that much trouble when I was doing mine, but I'm pretty sure that the screwdriver trick is the best way to go about it.

Gear wrenches are your friend... flexible head gear wrenches, reversible gear wrenches etc.
Old 12-10-2007, 07:52 PM
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Tried a strap wrench. It did not work for me.
Old 12-10-2007, 10:43 PM
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Probably jacking up that end of the motor would provide enough clearance. Or an engine hoist if you have one. That pulley alone took 2-3 hours to get when I changed my timing belt. My friend ultimately got it with the aid of the ratchet-end wrenches. He threaded the bolts, I tightened them down.
Old 12-11-2007, 06:55 AM
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The motor did not move that much when i took the motor mount off. there was some play in it but not enough to get to the bolts.
Old 12-11-2007, 11:01 AM
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when I did my timing belt, I do not remember it being so complicated. Took about an hour. Two hours total as I also did the 1.8 cam swap too
Old 12-11-2007, 11:12 AM
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You could always remove the front and rear rollstop mounts and jack the motor waaaay up, but be careful about stretching hoses and wires.

I went out and looked at my tib (which is currently on jackstands getting alot of work done to it right now) and there's no better way of removing the water pump pulley bolts unless you make your own tool. Either way, it's still going to do the same job as the screwdriver, but it wont slip as much because it will be at the right angle. Seems like something could be easily made from some 1/8" flat stock.
Old 12-11-2007, 01:09 PM
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Mad- Did your steps roughly follow Patreezy's? I would love for it to only have taken a few hours. Can you look over my notes and patreezys and let me know if perhaps there is a better order to do it in? I know alot of people dont even want to think of touching the timing belt so i wanted to add some info to patreezys DYI.


Question: Belt Humming. I have done some google searching, I can not get a definitive answer. Should new belts hum? If yes then for how long? The power steering belt i had to go and buy because the one in the SFR kit did not fit had ribs on the back side as well and I found posts that this can cause humming (something about new belt design). Ive read arguments both ways. Can anyone shed light on this?
Old 12-11-2007, 11:45 PM
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If nothing moves when swapping the belt, why do you need to re-set the timing?
Old 12-12-2007, 05:25 AM
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Thats what I though too but something did move, the crankshaft moves pretty freely. I was going to do the same thing. Double check to make sure everything is lined up. Better to double check and align then hope nothing "moved"



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