Timing Belt
#1
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Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Tiburon
im going to be replacing my timing belt. it recently broke while i was driving. sad.gif im putting together a list of the part i will be ordering and i want to make sure i am getting everything i will need. i spoke with my mechanic friend and he recommends pulling the head and doing a head job while i am there because i cant tell if my valves are bent unless i change the belt and put it all back together. so thats the route i am going. while i am working on the car, i figured i should replace the water pump and thermostat seeing as i have had the car for almost three years and have not had them replaced. if there is anything else you guys think i should do while im working on it, please let me know. thanks.
parts i am ordering:
thermostat
water pump
head gasket set
8 intake valves
8 exhaust valves
timing belt kit
parts i am ordering:
thermostat
water pump
head gasket set
8 intake valves
8 exhaust valves
timing belt kit
#2
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If it was approaching time for the second timing belt (120k miles +) then go ahead and get the water pump. If you don't know if it was ever replaced, it's relatively cheap insurance. The thermostat I would leave if it were me, but then I have already replaced one and you're going to have the head off - go for the thermostat as well if you like.
The exhaust valves you may not need. If you replace the intake valves and do a leak test, you may be finished with the head repairs. I would vote for at least installing some Singh grooves (search on this site) while the head is off, but a lot of people are very uncomfortable with the idea. A valve job or lapping the new valves to their seats may be required. You might as well replace the intake valve stem seals while you're in there.
If you do end up replacing the exhaust valves, you might consider replacing all 16 of the valve stem seals, again "while you're in there" to stave off any potential oil leaks in the future (or fix a minor existing leak)
Note: it may be easier to buy a used head just to get running again, but you never know what kind of condition it may be in.
Remove the a/c belt and see how smooth the a/c tensioner pulley runs; you may want to replace it too, depending on condition . . . then do NOT overtighten the a/c belt!
Just be sure the timing belt kit includes the idler and tensioner. And check the DIY I made for setting timing if you have any questions about that part of the job.
The exhaust valves you may not need. If you replace the intake valves and do a leak test, you may be finished with the head repairs. I would vote for at least installing some Singh grooves (search on this site) while the head is off, but a lot of people are very uncomfortable with the idea. A valve job or lapping the new valves to their seats may be required. You might as well replace the intake valve stem seals while you're in there.
If you do end up replacing the exhaust valves, you might consider replacing all 16 of the valve stem seals, again "while you're in there" to stave off any potential oil leaks in the future (or fix a minor existing leak)
Note: it may be easier to buy a used head just to get running again, but you never know what kind of condition it may be in.
Remove the a/c belt and see how smooth the a/c tensioner pulley runs; you may want to replace it too, depending on condition . . . then do NOT overtighten the a/c belt!
Just be sure the timing belt kit includes the idler and tensioner. And check the DIY I made for setting timing if you have any questions about that part of the job.
#3
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i dont think there is, but i figured i'd ask. is there a way to do a leak test without putting the engine back together?
ps.. where can i get an a/c tensioner pulley? just in case?
ps.. where can i get an a/c tensioner pulley? just in case?
#4
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Bolt a blank plate to the bottom of the head, air fitting to the spark plug hole, and recite the incantation. Or maybe just the first two things, I forget. A really severe "she won't run" leak test could be done by setting the head level, upside-down, and filling the chambers with water w/ a drop of dish soap dissolved in it.
#6
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Don't even bother getting it online. Get your kit from a local napa, they're cheaper and they give you the right parts.
^^referring to timing belt kit
^^referring to timing belt kit
#7
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There are 2 diy's on how to timing belts. Patrezy did one and i expanded on his. There should be a parts list floating around here someplace of the part numbers for the dealer as well.
#9
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- Hyundai MOBIS Genuine part
#24312 23002(Belt-Valve Timing) for 1.8L
24312 23202(Belt-Valve Timing) for 2.0L
24410 23400(Tensioner)
24810 23400(Idle Assy)
25100 23002(Water Pump)
25124 23000(Gasket)
25212 23000(V Belt)
57231 29200(Belt-Power Steering)
97713 29000(V Belt)
22144 3B001(Seal)
21421 23000(Seal)
25462 23000(O-Ring)
#24312 23002(Belt-Valve Timing) for 1.8L
24312 23202(Belt-Valve Timing) for 2.0L
24410 23400(Tensioner)
24810 23400(Idle Assy)
25100 23002(Water Pump)
25124 23000(Gasket)
25212 23000(V Belt)
57231 29200(Belt-Power Steering)
97713 29000(V Belt)
22144 3B001(Seal)
21421 23000(Seal)
25462 23000(O-Ring)
#10
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
For what you are doing I would reccomend going OEM on everything. It will be more expensive but the Felpro head gaskets suck and I wouldnt trust my head gasket or timing to anything but OEM. May want to give SFR a shot. Thats where I got my timing kit and was very pleased with the OEM parts and price.