time adjustable camshaft pulley
#11
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Vehicle: 1998 tiburon
oke thank u all!
i'm just a student so on the moment i don't have so much many to spend
but that is something for in the future.
i only want to get is about a 170hp for the moment.
but the camshaft pulley is only to bring the hp in a higher or lower rpm?
i'm just a student so on the moment i don't have so much many to spend
but that is something for in the future.
i only want to get is about a 170hp for the moment.
but the camshaft pulley is only to bring the hp in a higher or lower rpm?
#12
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If i was you looking for about 170hp I would say
Cams..a common cam swap is the 1.8 which wont get much gains and some even report a loss some report 10bhp gain which is about 4whp
exhaust
high flow cat
4-1 headers
custom intake manifold (remove the 90 degree bend)
cold air intake
ignition
injectors
fuel pump
a good clutch (6 puck)
I would think if those are properly done with a good tune youll hit 170
Cams..a common cam swap is the 1.8 which wont get much gains and some even report a loss some report 10bhp gain which is about 4whp
exhaust
high flow cat
4-1 headers
custom intake manifold (remove the 90 degree bend)
cold air intake
ignition
injectors
fuel pump
a good clutch (6 puck)
I would think if those are properly done with a good tune youll hit 170
#13
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You will spend more getting to 170 with quality bolt-on parts than you will getting to 200 with a low-budget turbocharger setup. And when you get to 170 naturally aspirated, you will still want more, and still have to spend for the turbo. If you really want a lot more power than stock, start off with a quality turbo setup and do it right, once.
^ one man's opinion
^ one man's opinion
#16
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of course everyone is gonna be with boosting lol but we dont want another TibbyTurbo either. if you do decide to go turbo or forced induction read up on it and KNOW KNOW KNOW KNOW about how it works
#17
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I dont care for you most of the time stocker, but those two posts deserved some rep..
I would personally return/sell the gear and get something better for the money.
If your planning on staying with an N/A setup, I would do the following for a 'budget' setup.
True CAI (AEM style)
Bored TB (not neccesary in my opinion)
Port matched IM (not neccesary in my opinion)
Cheapo header (as long as its well construced, its good)
free flowing 2.25"-2.5" exhaust with minimal bends and restrictions
hi-flow cat convertor is always a good option
1.8L cam if you can find it cheap will give a little extra power
then doing things like a shorter shifter, shifter bushings, poly engine mounts will make it a lot more fun to drive. probably wont have much more than around 150hp or so, but will make a world of difference when driving it while not totally killing your pocketbook.
going EXTREME and spending a bunch more money than the usual N/A setup won't yield significant results and will reduce drivability.
A low-budget (do not read: used, cheap parts) turbo setup would get you right around 180-190hp easily with minimal supporting mods.
EDIT: to turbocharge you really don't need to read THAT much if you are getting an almost bolt on system that other people have done before. and you need to pay attention to instructions during the install. Most of what people do wrong has to do with hooking lines up wrong, whether it vacuum, pressure or oil. You also need to be conscious of the parts you buy.
Then there is the most important aspect that people usually cheap out on, getting something to tune the fuel. The actual mechanical turbo system is simple, but your stock ECU doesn't know what the hell you are doing, so when you try to feed all that air into the car while your car is still feeding it fuel based on the MAF voltage, your going to run into problems.
I would personally return/sell the gear and get something better for the money.
If your planning on staying with an N/A setup, I would do the following for a 'budget' setup.
True CAI (AEM style)
Bored TB (not neccesary in my opinion)
Port matched IM (not neccesary in my opinion)
Cheapo header (as long as its well construced, its good)
free flowing 2.25"-2.5" exhaust with minimal bends and restrictions
hi-flow cat convertor is always a good option
1.8L cam if you can find it cheap will give a little extra power
then doing things like a shorter shifter, shifter bushings, poly engine mounts will make it a lot more fun to drive. probably wont have much more than around 150hp or so, but will make a world of difference when driving it while not totally killing your pocketbook.
going EXTREME and spending a bunch more money than the usual N/A setup won't yield significant results and will reduce drivability.
A low-budget (do not read: used, cheap parts) turbo setup would get you right around 180-190hp easily with minimal supporting mods.
EDIT: to turbocharge you really don't need to read THAT much if you are getting an almost bolt on system that other people have done before. and you need to pay attention to instructions during the install. Most of what people do wrong has to do with hooking lines up wrong, whether it vacuum, pressure or oil. You also need to be conscious of the parts you buy.
Then there is the most important aspect that people usually cheap out on, getting something to tune the fuel. The actual mechanical turbo system is simple, but your stock ECU doesn't know what the hell you are doing, so when you try to feed all that air into the car while your car is still feeding it fuel based on the MAF voltage, your going to run into problems.
#18
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Okay guys, a question then. Our diy suggests the 1.8 cam advances timing 6 degrees, with that in mind is there a benefit if any from timing the exhaust side to any degree?
#20
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its from the 1.8L beta motor in the early tiburons and elantras that had the 1.8L beta option..
" Our diy suggests the 1.8 cam advances timing 6 degrees," that would be for the intake only.
" Our diy suggests the 1.8 cam advances timing 6 degrees," that would be for the intake only.