Crash

I took my car into the shop today because the front brakes were squealing. I talked to the shop foreman and he suggested I replace the rotors while they had them exposed. I agreed that was the best plan. He then phoned back to say they couldn't get the rotors off and that they were going to have to cut the axle to get them off. I said WTF is going on, I'll be there in 10 minutes. I looked at the rotors and ya they were really rusty (man I hate all you easterns and the salt on your roads!) but I didn't think it was time to cut axles yet. I got a call today (after they sat all night) saying they had got the rotors off but now needed to replace the bearing and a boot (???) Either way it is better than axles...

Sparticus

wtf?? they should have been able to get the rotor off. if its being replaced, fvck it and break the damn thing off. ain't nothin a sledgehammer can't fix tongue.gif

REDZMAN

Yeah, this shop sounds stupid.

Vladimer

agreed. they dont sound to bright

front rotors are usually harder to get off then the rear, especially if you live up north, i spent like 2 hours with a sledge getting one off and nothing else was damaged in the proccess

Hyundai92Excel

Went thru something like this today at work. On an 04 Expedition. Some PB Blaster and some "mild persuasion" with the sledge and they popped right off. They were getting replaced anyway as well.

Mad-Machine

I keep telling people about how to get rotors off and nobody listens!

The hole where the bolts that hold the rotors on is double threaded. If you look closely, both the rotor AND the hub is threaded, but are different sizes. The hole in the hub is SMALLER than the one in the hub. The trick is to get two bolts that thread into the rotor ONLY.. if it fits those threads, it will NOT fit into the threads on the hub.

One you have those two bolts threaded into the rotor, you equally tighten them into the rotor.. they will press against the hub and either pop the rotor right off of it, or break the face of the rotor, which makes it easier to get PBblast and the like in there.

If I still had my tib, I would get you guys the bolt and thead sizes, but I can't

DTN

^^ the holes are even labeled for removal tool on the rotors.

01tibby

and many of us keep telling you mad, that the screws on there from the factory are rusted SOLID to the rotors. i used pb blaster and god only knows what other penetrating sprays i have in my garage...nothing would loosen those screws enough to get them out. when i eventually got the rotor face off, i cracked it right by the screw and still needed to use a hammer to bang the screw out of like 3/8 of a thread of the rotor hat.

tdonnell

Well, I guarantee there is a way for a shop to get pretty much ANY bolt/screw that is rusted, out.

It is called an oxy/acetylene torch, and any real shop has one, simply heat the rotor/hub up around the stuck bolts/screws, the heat causes the iron hub to expand, voila, the screw easily turns out. That simple.

This shop is obviously filled with idiots if you need a new wheel bearing (from them beating on the rotor with a sledge), and a new CV boot (from them probably hitting the boot with the hammer they were using to hit the rotor, lol laugh.gif ).

God, I can picture this fat idiot with a beer belly right now: "we're gonna have to cut yer axles off to git 'er done, mm, huunngg" LOL. HAHAHAHA!!! WTF man, that shit is funny!

You do have a non-captive setup right, wait, its a 2001, nevermind.

DTN

^^ Maybe I'm just lucky.... I've never needed anything more then PB blaster and some elbow grease.

Where would you cut anyways? Wouldn't it make more sence to remove the endlinks, the castle nut holding the hub in place, then pop out the axel with a crowbar? I mean, the only place I could see cutting would be on the axel.