Is stainless steel alright for CAI?
02-01-2005, 04:51 PM
#21
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Aluminum from my understanding dissipates more than it heats up.</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>(SS holds heat in, but I did not know it ABSORBED heat. I thought it would hold heat OUT better than Aluminum but I guess that's where I was wrong)</div>
I'd like to clear this up, because it annoys me wink1.gif. Any material isn't going to hold heat in better than holding cold in. Think about a thermos, when you stick something hot soup inside, it stays hot. When you stick a cold drink inside, it stays cold. The material only minimizes heat exchange. Materials with lower thermal conductivity (air, foam, vaccuum) are going to transfer less heat between two mediums that have a difference in temperature than materials with a high thermal conductivity (copper, aluminum). If it holds heat in, it's also going to hold cold in. If it transfers heat easily, it transfers cold easily.
There are only a few ways to minimize heat exchange, ie, if you want to keep the air in your CAI cold. The obvious, is to bring in colder air. You can also build it out of a material with a low thermal conductivity. You can also make the walls thicker. The same concept comes in if you wrap your intake in heat wrap, thicker heat wrap will be better than thinner heat wrap (given the same thermal conductivity). Another thing is to minimize surface area. Less surface area = less heat exchange.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>(SS holds heat in, but I did not know it ABSORBED heat. I thought it would hold heat OUT better than Aluminum but I guess that's where I was wrong)</div>
I'd like to clear this up, because it annoys me wink1.gif. Any material isn't going to hold heat in better than holding cold in. Think about a thermos, when you stick something hot soup inside, it stays hot. When you stick a cold drink inside, it stays cold. The material only minimizes heat exchange. Materials with lower thermal conductivity (air, foam, vaccuum) are going to transfer less heat between two mediums that have a difference in temperature than materials with a high thermal conductivity (copper, aluminum). If it holds heat in, it's also going to hold cold in. If it transfers heat easily, it transfers cold easily.
There are only a few ways to minimize heat exchange, ie, if you want to keep the air in your CAI cold. The obvious, is to bring in colder air. You can also build it out of a material with a low thermal conductivity. You can also make the walls thicker. The same concept comes in if you wrap your intake in heat wrap, thicker heat wrap will be better than thinner heat wrap (given the same thermal conductivity). Another thing is to minimize surface area. Less surface area = less heat exchange.
02-01-2005, 05:40 PM
#22
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^^^^That's right.
Only thing I would add is, there's actually no "cold transmission". In terms of energy, heat is energy, cold is lack-of-heat hence lack-of-energy.
As when you open your fridge and somebody says "don't let the cold get out", actually, no cold is getting out, it's the heat in the nearby what gets in, and in the process whatever is in the nearby loses heat.
In the engine bay, there is so much heat, that everything gets hot, after an hour of functioning, everything will be hot, your best bet is that the fresh air that get's in, passes quick enough as to not raise it's temperature too much.
Another way to avoid heat transfer --that will always go from the hot engine bay to the less hot intake, refrigerated by the intake air-- is to make a urethane CAI, but I guess that would be really difficult.
Only thing I would add is, there's actually no "cold transmission". In terms of energy, heat is energy, cold is lack-of-heat hence lack-of-energy.
As when you open your fridge and somebody says "don't let the cold get out", actually, no cold is getting out, it's the heat in the nearby what gets in, and in the process whatever is in the nearby loses heat.
In the engine bay, there is so much heat, that everything gets hot, after an hour of functioning, everything will be hot, your best bet is that the fresh air that get's in, passes quick enough as to not raise it's temperature too much.
Another way to avoid heat transfer --that will always go from the hot engine bay to the less hot intake, refrigerated by the intake air-- is to make a urethane CAI, but I guess that would be really difficult.
02-01-2005, 06:35 PM
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actually.. if you do not mind cutting a hole into the inner fender where the battery is (there is a small one there already) you can make a CAI with one 90 degree bend... that is how mine is.. it runs from the MAF to where the battery was.. then down the hole I had to enlarge and to the filter.. probably half the length of the AEM..
02-01-2005, 06:38 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mad-Machine)</div><div class='quotemain'>actually.. if you do not mind cutting a hole into the inner fender where the battery is (there is a small one there already) you can make a CAI with one 90 degree bend... that is how mine is.. it runs from the MAF to where the battery was.. then down the hole I had to enlarge and to the filter.. probably half the length of the AEM..</div>
Yes, from the MAF to that hole you'd use only one 90°, but he has a MAP based Tib, he's not going to make it with one laugh.gif: my guess is he'll need at least three, like a 90°, 75°, 45° combo.
Yes, from the MAF to that hole you'd use only one 90°, but he has a MAP based Tib, he's not going to make it with one laugh.gif: my guess is he'll need at least three, like a 90°, 75°, 45° combo.
02-01-2005, 06:48 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mad-Machine)</div><div class='quotemain'>MAP sensor is in the same place as the MAF, right?</div>
Nop, it's in the IM, so for us with MAP based engines, there's nothing but the rubber hose from the OEM Airbox to the TB, you don't actually "see" any type of sensor, that's why we can use 3" pipes all the way in our CAI's.
Nop, it's in the IM, so for us with MAP based engines, there's nothing but the rubber hose from the OEM Airbox to the TB, you don't actually "see" any type of sensor, that's why we can use 3" pipes all the way in our CAI's.
02-01-2005, 09:31 PM
#28
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Vehicle: 1997 Hyundai Fx Coupe
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Zman)</div><div class='quotemain'>Yes, from the MAF to that hole you'd use only one 90°, but he has a MAP based Tib, he's not going to make it with one laugh.gif: my guess is he'll need at least three, like a 90°, 75°, 45° combo.</div>
??? The MAF sensor isn't there but the rubber hose is the same overall length... just in one piece & without the MAF sensor in the middle of it...
So Mad's setup would work just the same but I was going to use the 45deg bend so the rubber coupler (at the TB) doesn't get unneccessary strain put on it.
Like this...
??? The MAF sensor isn't there but the rubber hose is the same overall length... just in one piece & without the MAF sensor in the middle of it...
So Mad's setup would work just the same but I was going to use the 45deg bend so the rubber coupler (at the TB) doesn't get unneccessary strain put on it.
Like this...
02-01-2005, 11:09 PM
#29
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Damn, that looks familiar wink1.gif
But yeah mine and Neo's CAI is pretty much the same. 3" Stainless steal exhaust piping,... and that "Ebay" one that Col (got it off Ebay) is made by a local guy,... long story, but same ones we have.
Haven't had any issues with ours.
But yeah mine and Neo's CAI is pretty much the same. 3" Stainless steal exhaust piping,... and that "Ebay" one that Col (got it off Ebay) is made by a local guy,... long story, but same ones we have.
Haven't had any issues with ours.