speedo testing procedures
01-30-2005, 06:31 PM
#31
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Vehicle: 2001/Hyundai/Tiburon
ok, the black wire running to the sensor. check for continuity between the ground and it. one meter lead to negative battery post, the other to the pin the black wire runs to.
do the same for #14 of 101-2 for the cluster...
then, make sure the key is at on. check the voltage at the sensor's lavender wire. it should be around 12. do the same for the brown wire running to the cluster #10 on 101-2.
finally, check the voltage for the y/b wire coming off the speed sensor. webtech says that with the sensor disconnected(obviously, you need this to measure the voltage) it should be about 4.5. check the voltage at the same color wire #9 on 101-1. just to make sure.
if all that checks out, then it has to be a faulty speedo.
do the same for #14 of 101-2 for the cluster...
then, make sure the key is at on. check the voltage at the sensor's lavender wire. it should be around 12. do the same for the brown wire running to the cluster #10 on 101-2.
finally, check the voltage for the y/b wire coming off the speed sensor. webtech says that with the sensor disconnected(obviously, you need this to measure the voltage) it should be about 4.5. check the voltage at the same color wire #9 on 101-1. just to make sure.
if all that checks out, then it has to be a faulty speedo.
02-13-2005, 06:11 PM
#32
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tibby01, thanks for the help. i'm not sure which wires you're talking about because hyundai doesn't use a standard coloring scheme. however, i testing the resistance (which i think is continuity) at all three pins on the plug, not the sensor. i'm not sure which setting on my multimeter to use. i used the 2K ohm, and got a 1.6xx reading. btw, i don't know much about wiring, and this is my first real problem with wiring, so bear with me. as for testing the cluster, connector 101-2, you mean to test the plug the cluster sits on, not the back of the actual cluster, right? i'll get to that next weekend.
02-13-2005, 06:53 PM
#33
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what do you mean hyundai doesnt have a standard coloring scheme? everytime i've looked up a wire color on webtech, it has been right.
yes, you use the resistance(ohm) setting on your multimeter to test for continuity. you want to set it at, i guess its called direct ohms, not 2k ohms. if you have continuity, it will read 0, or some VERY low number. and yes, you will want to go to the wire on the harness, not the cluster. the cluster is in that picture just to show you the numbering of pins, because its wrong on the back of the clusters. what im trying to get you to do is make sure the necessary components that could be bad are getting ground. if the multimeter reads 0 or a very low number, then they have ground. if something doesnt have ground, then try something temporary to give it ground, like connecting an alligator clip from a metal part of the chassis, directly to the ground pin on the sensor/harness. that should make things work, and it will tell you there is a cut somewhere in the wire for ground.
yes, you use the resistance(ohm) setting on your multimeter to test for continuity. you want to set it at, i guess its called direct ohms, not 2k ohms. if you have continuity, it will read 0, or some VERY low number. and yes, you will want to go to the wire on the harness, not the cluster. the cluster is in that picture just to show you the numbering of pins, because its wrong on the back of the clusters. what im trying to get you to do is make sure the necessary components that could be bad are getting ground. if the multimeter reads 0 or a very low number, then they have ground. if something doesnt have ground, then try something temporary to give it ground, like connecting an alligator clip from a metal part of the chassis, directly to the ground pin on the sensor/harness. that should make things work, and it will tell you there is a cut somewhere in the wire for ground.