Is this short shifter worth buying?
11-29-2004, 10:27 PM
#42
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Help with rims
Argh! The freaking shifter keeps popping out of the control arm. 02.gif
I'm thinking about glueing the bushing onto the ball end of the RSA, as it seems to come off, which then allows it to slip out of the control arm when I push the shifter to the right. I know it needs to be able to rotate some, but I'm hoping the control arm is loose enough that it won't be a problem.
Otherwise I'm going to consider drilling a few small holes through the upper end of that RSide plastic piece and running some wire through it so it can't pop off of the shifter.
If that doesn't work I'm going to make an hour trip to the nearest junkyard with a Tib and grab the stock shifter assembly. Maybe there's something wrong with my control arm or setup. I'm at a loss.
Even more good news from my mechanic today: the allegedly brand new clutch in my tib is slipping. Bloody hell.
I'm thinking about glueing the bushing onto the ball end of the RSA, as it seems to come off, which then allows it to slip out of the control arm when I push the shifter to the right. I know it needs to be able to rotate some, but I'm hoping the control arm is loose enough that it won't be a problem.
Otherwise I'm going to consider drilling a few small holes through the upper end of that RSide plastic piece and running some wire through it so it can't pop off of the shifter.
If that doesn't work I'm going to make an hour trip to the nearest junkyard with a Tib and grab the stock shifter assembly. Maybe there's something wrong with my control arm or setup. I'm at a loss.
Even more good news from my mechanic today: the allegedly brand new clutch in my tib is slipping. Bloody hell.
11-30-2004, 12:29 AM
#44
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Re: 315cc injectors
I might be. Honestly I hope not, since I really want to use the RSA.
I've been sitting in my car for the last few hours (in the middle of the night no less) trying to find a solution. And I think the real problem is the gear select cable. I posted earlier that it doesn't return like it's supposed to. The fact that it is rough would also explain why my mechanic says the clutch is slipping: it's hard to get into first because of the cable, not the cluth/plate. I think the gear select cable is so stiff that it makes the shifter pop out of the control arm instead of moving out of the housing easily, and maybe if I replace that or lube it or whatever, my problem will be solved. I wonder if it's bent, or maybe if it needs adjusting on the other end. I honestly don't know, I'm ignorant in this area. I guess I'll have to take it in. At this point I'm even willing to be raped by my Hyundai dealer to get it fixed (did I mention that they wanted $165 for a section of door sill trim?).
At least I'm learning about how my car works. :?
I've been sitting in my car for the last few hours (in the middle of the night no less) trying to find a solution. And I think the real problem is the gear select cable. I posted earlier that it doesn't return like it's supposed to. The fact that it is rough would also explain why my mechanic says the clutch is slipping: it's hard to get into first because of the cable, not the cluth/plate. I think the gear select cable is so stiff that it makes the shifter pop out of the control arm instead of moving out of the housing easily, and maybe if I replace that or lube it or whatever, my problem will be solved. I wonder if it's bent, or maybe if it needs adjusting on the other end. I honestly don't know, I'm ignorant in this area. I guess I'll have to take it in. At this point I'm even willing to be raped by my Hyundai dealer to get it fixed (did I mention that they wanted $165 for a section of door sill trim?).
At least I'm learning about how my car works. :?
11-30-2004, 06:25 AM
#45
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Re: LOL - autozone/advanced auto people...
I wonder why it's giving YOU so many problems?
Have you tried to put some teflon tape around the ball that the bushing goes on?
Have you tried to put some teflon tape around the ball that the bushing goes on?
11-30-2004, 07:03 PM
#46
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Re: lsd
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (REDZMAN)</div><div class='quotemain'>I wonder why it's giving YOU so many problems?</div>
Probably because my car is a damned lemon.
Maybe not a lemon, but the dealer I bought it from grossly misrepresented the mechanical condition. He'lll be getting negative feedback for sure. "Brand new clutch" my ass.
I'll try teflon tape, but I think the problem is that the gear select cable is too stiff. It's going to the mechanic once again. I've had this car a month and have only been able to drive it a few hours. Suckage.
Update:
Well, I put the RSide Basic back in and the problem is gone. It seems that the little bushing on the bottom end of the Basic sits deeper than the Advanced, so it's not popping out. I snapped a few photos, but basically the ball end/bushing that slides into the control arm on the Advanced is several mm shorter.
I ordered a new control arm/bushing assembly and the spring assembly from my dealer, but I don't know if that will make any difference. That bolt is a bit looser than it should be I think. I went ahead and widened the cuts on the shifter baseplate so the cables won't rub, seems to be doing okay and I can shift into gears easily now.
Hopefully I will be able to use the RSA when those parts come in. It's really a lot nicer. I'm wondering if that ball end section on mine is shorter than normal or something. If it was just a few mm longer...
Probably because my car is a damned lemon.
Maybe not a lemon, but the dealer I bought it from grossly misrepresented the mechanical condition. He'lll be getting negative feedback for sure. "Brand new clutch" my ass.
I'll try teflon tape, but I think the problem is that the gear select cable is too stiff. It's going to the mechanic once again. I've had this car a month and have only been able to drive it a few hours. Suckage.
Update:
Well, I put the RSide Basic back in and the problem is gone. It seems that the little bushing on the bottom end of the Basic sits deeper than the Advanced, so it's not popping out. I snapped a few photos, but basically the ball end/bushing that slides into the control arm on the Advanced is several mm shorter.
I ordered a new control arm/bushing assembly and the spring assembly from my dealer, but I don't know if that will make any difference. That bolt is a bit looser than it should be I think. I went ahead and widened the cuts on the shifter baseplate so the cables won't rub, seems to be doing okay and I can shift into gears easily now.
Hopefully I will be able to use the RSA when those parts come in. It's really a lot nicer. I'm wondering if that ball end section on mine is shorter than normal or something. If it was just a few mm longer...
12-06-2004, 12:06 AM
#47
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?..$725 Custom intake
The difference is pretty obvious. I'm going to get an entire shifter assembly and play with that some. But I think I need the RSA to be 2mm longer where the bushing enters the control arm.
RSA:
RSB:
Even after cutting out the baseplate (which made it more flexy BTW) it still rubs in some spots, including the metal of the frame itself. But I can't drive my Tib anyway, the "brand new" clutch is slipping terribly. I've never sued anyone before, but if the dealership that sold me this car doesn't offer to at least split the bill on a new clutch, I may have to go through small claims court. I was blatantly lied to about the mechanical condition.
RSA:
RSB:
Even after cutting out the baseplate (which made it more flexy BTW) it still rubs in some spots, including the metal of the frame itself. But I can't drive my Tib anyway, the "brand new" clutch is slipping terribly. I've never sued anyone before, but if the dealership that sold me this car doesn't offer to at least split the bill on a new clutch, I may have to go through small claims court. I was blatantly lied to about the mechanical condition.
12-15-2004, 07:39 PM
#48
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Re: Some GIF's I made (56k WARNING)
I think I finally found the real problem.
This is the used control arm bolt:
And here's the new one.
Absolutely no play in the new one, whereas the old one has lots of slop. Maybe this is why the RSA bushing keeps popping out of the control arm. I sure hope so, becasue to get that nut I had to buy the whole shifter baseplate for $30, as it's not sold seperately.
I also bought new bushings, washers, everything but the arm itself basically. BTW, these bushings that go for $5 each at the dealer can be had at a bearing supply store for under a dollar. Igus makes them in the J series polymer, which should be a lot more durable.
This is the used control arm bolt:
And here's the new one.
Absolutely no play in the new one, whereas the old one has lots of slop. Maybe this is why the RSA bushing keeps popping out of the control arm. I sure hope so, becasue to get that nut I had to buy the whole shifter baseplate for $30, as it's not sold seperately.
I also bought new bushings, washers, everything but the arm itself basically. BTW, these bushings that go for $5 each at the dealer can be had at a bearing supply store for under a dollar. Igus makes them in the J series polymer, which should be a lot more durable.
12-15-2004, 07:42 PM
#49
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Re: Removing dashboard
WOW.
Thanks mang.
Let us know how it turns out.
New bushings? Which?
Thanks mang.
Let us know how it turns out.
New bushings? Which?
12-18-2004, 09:26 PM
#50
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Re: Best Cheap OEM Mod Yet... *Teaser*
Redz, I'm running some Igus polymer bushings instead of the plastic ones from Hyundai. The two on the shifter and the two on the control arm bolt. They should be a lot more durable, and don't require any lube. Not a performance upgrade or anything, but I had come to a point where I would tolerate no slop in the shifter. :|
Well, who would have thought one new bolt could make my Tib feel like a completely different car? I'm happy to report that the RSA unit is installed and working 100%. It hits the surround in first but I think I can easily tune that out with the cable adjuster. No more popping out of the control arm, I even tried and can't. I can't believe how much Hell I went through over one freakin' bolt.
I'm using the new baseplate too, since I had to buy it. I plan to order a new spring for the shifter, as mine has wear spots in it and that allows for the slightest of jiggling in neutral. For now I stripped off the old plastic coating and put a few layers of heat shrink on it.
Here it is pushed all the way to the right, not a chance of it popping out:
And I could not figure out where this retainer ring was supposed to go. There wasn't one on my control arm before...
Now I can shift so fast. It's a good feeling. 8) Do our Tibs have the same slave cylinder valve as the new Tiburons? If so I'm going to remove it.
Update 11.20: After some simple adjustment the shifter no longer hits the surround in first and second. I didn't cut the threads off as in this DIY, but I might to get the shifter knob centered a bit more: http://www.rdtiburon.com/old/index.php?nam...iewtopic&t=1789
Maybe I'm just not used to a hydraulic clutch, but I seem to rev the engine when switching gears a lot, unless I make a deliberate effort to avoid it. I'm hoping the slave cylinder valve removal will change that, but I guess it's just something I'll have to get used to. It seems like the clutch disengages very early on in the pedal travel.
Well, who would have thought one new bolt could make my Tib feel like a completely different car? I'm happy to report that the RSA unit is installed and working 100%. It hits the surround in first but I think I can easily tune that out with the cable adjuster. No more popping out of the control arm, I even tried and can't. I can't believe how much Hell I went through over one freakin' bolt.
I'm using the new baseplate too, since I had to buy it. I plan to order a new spring for the shifter, as mine has wear spots in it and that allows for the slightest of jiggling in neutral. For now I stripped off the old plastic coating and put a few layers of heat shrink on it.
Here it is pushed all the way to the right, not a chance of it popping out:
And I could not figure out where this retainer ring was supposed to go. There wasn't one on my control arm before...
Now I can shift so fast. It's a good feeling. 8) Do our Tibs have the same slave cylinder valve as the new Tiburons? If so I'm going to remove it.
Update 11.20: After some simple adjustment the shifter no longer hits the surround in first and second. I didn't cut the threads off as in this DIY, but I might to get the shifter knob centered a bit more: http://www.rdtiburon.com/old/index.php?nam...iewtopic&t=1789
Maybe I'm just not used to a hydraulic clutch, but I seem to rev the engine when switching gears a lot, unless I make a deliberate effort to avoid it. I'm hoping the slave cylinder valve removal will change that, but I guess it's just something I'll have to get used to. It seems like the clutch disengages very early on in the pedal travel.