rebuild vs new
#1
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rebuild vs new
how hard is it to rebuild an engine? about how long will would it take? should i do anything extra while its apart? how much would it cost to have a place to it for me? or should i jsut get a new one? mine has 142k on it. thanks for all the input.
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not sure on prices... last engine I had rebuilt I did myself... and I am working an ambitious project to mount a Lancia Delta intergrale head to my fiat's block..
that said.. a quality rebuild.. while not cheap, should be just as good as a new engine. Unless you happen to have a catastrophic failure, the block and crank should still be in good shape. A dunking, turning the crank and new bearings and then everything else can be bought new...
that said.. a quality rebuild.. while not cheap, should be just as good as a new engine. Unless you happen to have a catastrophic failure, the block and crank should still be in good shape. A dunking, turning the crank and new bearings and then everything else can be bought new...
#3
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Kiltman)</div><div class='quotemain'>how hard is it to rebuild an engine? about how long will would it take? should i do anything extra while its apart? how much would it cost to have a place to it for me? or should i jsut get a new one? mine has 142k on it. thanks for all the input.</div>
If you are asking these questions I wouldn't recomend doing it yourself. A place might ask you about $1500-2000 to do it plus parts. Just get a used engine with less mi on it and swap it. It will be cheaper!
If you are asking these questions I wouldn't recomend doing it yourself. A place might ask you about $1500-2000 to do it plus parts. Just get a used engine with less mi on it and swap it. It will be cheaper!
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no i dont know much, but my dad is a freaking car genious. (comeing from someone who know little about cars probably doesnt hold much water) if i could convince him, wouldnt be much of a problem. thing is though. we ahve a 67 mustange in waiting to be worked on. and then a 68 chevel after that. i like working on my tib, but want to get stuff done on my mustange too. time is just a big issue.
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well.. if your dad can do the work (with you helping I assume) I would go to a yard and pick up a used 2.0 beta and rebuild that... when it is done you could swap it into your car... much better than laying up your car and less of a rush to get the engine done.
#8
Rebuilds, if you don't do it...can cost up to $1000+. Of course, if you did most of the rebuild (with the exception of having to machine parts) then it would be considerably cheaper.
With that said, rebuilds can be better than new, because tolerances can be much tighter. What's that mean? It means instead of having a tolerance of 1/8" or so...you can have the tolerances diminished to 0.5mm or so. Course...the tighter the tolerance you create, the more expensive it'll be for you. This means your parts will run more efficiently, and last longer.
Think about it...if your tolerances are off by 1/8"...for example...your piston heads and the cylinder wall...the piston heads could be bouncing around inside the cylinder (small-scale bouncing...not like bouncing a basketball). This would eventually wear down your walls or your piston heads...or both. Tighter tolerances would reduce this, increase your part's life, and allow you to push your engine's capabilities further.
However, if you plan on going into heavy boosting, I'd probably bullet proof the engine while you're rebuilding it. This way, it's easier to bulletproof the enigine block while it's in pieces. Or if you're poor, then just stick with rebuilding.
With that said, rebuilds can be better than new, because tolerances can be much tighter. What's that mean? It means instead of having a tolerance of 1/8" or so...you can have the tolerances diminished to 0.5mm or so. Course...the tighter the tolerance you create, the more expensive it'll be for you. This means your parts will run more efficiently, and last longer.
Think about it...if your tolerances are off by 1/8"...for example...your piston heads and the cylinder wall...the piston heads could be bouncing around inside the cylinder (small-scale bouncing...not like bouncing a basketball). This would eventually wear down your walls or your piston heads...or both. Tighter tolerances would reduce this, increase your part's life, and allow you to push your engine's capabilities further.
However, if you plan on going into heavy boosting, I'd probably bullet proof the engine while you're rebuilding it. This way, it's easier to bulletproof the enigine block while it's in pieces. Or if you're poor, then just stick with rebuilding.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Dmitry)</div><div class='quotemain'>Hey guys!!! Come to Ukraine! It's $300 + parts costs to rebuilt engine.</div>
This may be true, but there are so many other reasons I would rather stay where I am.
This may be true, but there are so many other reasons I would rather stay where I am.
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Arctic does have a good point... with a rebuild you do yourself (or your father does with you helping) you can be assured EXACTLY what is going into the engine. Tolerances can be as close or as loose as you want, you can spec exactly what parts you want, and you can see that there were no short cuts taken and that everything was built the right way (Ask Maier about con rods)