Purge Contol Valve
04-23-2010, 06:06 PM
#11
Super Moderator
Sorry, I meant spin the PUMP by hand. The belt should be in serviceable condition or replaced; that's easy. Though, come to think of it the pump runs constantly so nevermind! laugh.gif
Does the vibration come when you turn on the a/c or fan only , or JUST with the heater?
A bad engine mount is super easy to detect. Open the hood with the engine running and snap open/closed the throttle body or have someone inside goose the gas pedal. It shouldn't jump so much it almost hits the firewall & radiator. Also get a flashlight and have a look. It is common for the mounts to be broken/disintegrated and it is VERY obvious when you see it.
Does the vibration come when you turn on the a/c or fan only , or JUST with the heater?
A bad engine mount is super easy to detect. Open the hood with the engine running and snap open/closed the throttle body or have someone inside goose the gas pedal. It shouldn't jump so much it almost hits the firewall & radiator. Also get a flashlight and have a look. It is common for the mounts to be broken/disintegrated and it is VERY obvious when you see it.
04-25-2010, 08:23 AM
#12
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While we are on the topic, is there any way to completely remove this system? I have an accent 98 that I use only for track days. I swapped a beta in it and never got around to fix a similar issue ( I would have to change fuel tank to fix it). Right now, since this problem only triggers the CE on the 2nd start, I never get it as I shut power with a kill switch every time I stop the car.
Can I remove the canister? What do I do with the hoses laying around?
Can I remove the canister? What do I do with the hoses laying around?
05-04-2010, 06:07 PM
#14
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No the engine itself does not move. And it happens with type of extra power being turned on. The heater, headlights, AC. It will realy vibrate the steering wheel when the radiator fans kick on. BTW been driving it for about 2 weeks not a no CE lights since replacing the Purge Control Valve, also starts up on first crank after filling up the tank. So that was a pretty easy and inexpensive fix!
05-04-2010, 08:56 PM
#15
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I wonder if you are not just experiencing a rough idle? When a B engine drops under ~800RPM it can really shake your fillings loose. If the throttle body is crudded up, it can cause transient rough running until the idle air control opens by making the engine spin too slowly. Maybe check to see that your throttle body is clean inside? You mentioned that in your initial post; if you haven't checked it, now might be the time.
Also clean out the idle air bypass valve, mounted on the left/rear of the intake manifold as you look at it from the front of the car. If that's sticking, it might cause the high RPM hangup
It seems like you might be getting the idea that changing small things to make a car better is a worthwhile way to spend a few minutes. Run a search on a slave cylinder restrictor removal/mod.
Also clean out the idle air bypass valve, mounted on the left/rear of the intake manifold as you look at it from the front of the car. If that's sticking, it might cause the high RPM hangup
It seems like you might be getting the idea that changing small things to make a car better is a worthwhile way to spend a few minutes. Run a search on a slave cylinder restrictor removal/mod.