MasterJ51503

Well... since this site is FULL of tiburon experts lol... i was wondering what modifactions would provide the most HP... excluding turbo. anyone know from experience?

OdessitPashka

you could become expert in this field if you used "search" button!

zoned019

first of all:





how much are you willing to spend?

if you are 100% sure you will never go turbo, then the cheapest/best thing you can do is an AEM cold air intake, which go for about $170-200. if you get a turbo you will have to get rid of this.

also, an air ram + big bore throttle body are good but that is about a $900 combo. these are turbo compatible

if you do enough research around this site, you will almost 100% come to the conclusion that turbo is the cheapest way for our cars, because a lightly boosted turbo kit can run on stock internals and is only around $2000 from speedfactor. $2000 can be spent on NA mods EASILY and still not reach the same level of the turbo.
im sure you will be getting some posts on here from people saying SEARCH, and others will write you pages on why the smartest and most cost-effective thing is to go turbo and not waste time with NA.

peter_2150

lol
we are going to have an exhast GB (i think) so will want to get in on the. And CAI, Headers, ect. are the things you will want to start out with.

hamhead

Bleh, turbo = unreliable pain in the butt most of the time. Naturally aspirated is a lot easier. My GSX sits in the garage 90% of the time, well because, 90% of the time it doesn't run well enough for me to drive it. Sure, im boosting like 19 PSI, and you guys are talking like 8, but still its annoying.

2000 dollars isn't a good number for a kit. You need an air-fuel controller. Another 300 dollars. Your going to need dyno time to tune it for that PSI. another 100 dollars. Your gas mileage is going to plummet on a Tiburon by about 8 miles a gallon and your going to need 93 octane. If you go 12,000 miles a year, and get 28 miles to the gallon on 87 octane, your paying 1000.00 a year. Drop it 8 miles a gallon and 93 octane and your paying 1600.00 a yea or so. Your going to probably need to buy another 150 dollars worth of stuff in addition to Speed Factor's kit to keep everything clamped down and tight. Your going to spend a lot of time doing small things, like a PCV bypass to keep oil from ruining your mass air flow sensor and other vitals. Your going to spend a few hours looking for leaks after you install it and afterward. Your going to need a larger exhaust, stock exhaust isn't going to cut it if you want your turbo and engine to live for a while, another 300 dollars. Your going to need a turbo timer, another 300 bucks or so. Well, either that, or you sit in the car for four minutes after you drive so the oil gets out of the turbo and you don't ruin it. Your going to need a new clutch, another 800 bucks or so, plus install if you don't do it yourself.

All that is going to put you at, 200whp for about 3000 dollars or so. Plus a lot more management of the car, and worse gas mileage. If you boost any higher, your going to need lower compression turbo pistons (gaskets are a band-aid, not a fix) which will be 700 dollar install plus the cost of them if you don't do it yourself. Your probably going to have to retard the timing a little then.

Turbos are costly and you can't be stupid about cars to run them. Your endlessly going to have to keep an eye on the little suckers. Many people say: "Oooh I want a turbo." Doesn't work that way.
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Ok, turbo rant over. My advice to you, and the way I'm going to work my Tibby, is this. Stay N/A. Less maintenence, and your going to get same results as a light PSI turbo for same price.

AEM Cold Air - 190.00
Big Bore Throttle Body- 290.00
Intake Manifold- 600.00
Header- 400.00
Exhaust- 200.00
Intake Manifold Spacer- 50.00
1.8L Cam- 100.00
NX Wet Kit- 450.00
SAFC- 250.00
Colder Plugs- 50.00
DSM Fuel Pump-20.00

Thats 2,600 dollars right there. You couldn't even run the nitrous at 75, it would put you over what the stock piston will hold. Run the nitrous with a 50, and you make about 200WHP or so, probably more like 210. Same as turbo, less maintenence, just keep an eye on the nitrous and make sure the soleonoids and such are in good shape and the lines are attached.

Won't need a new clutch this route. Stock clutch can take 170WHP at 6000RPM without the nitrous armed. Only run the nitrous when you race, and it should hold up if you don't cook it like an idiot. 170WHP is about 200 crank horsepower in a 2700 pound car. Thats good for 14.7 in the quarter or so without the juice. With it, probably 14's even. More than enough for a daily driver.
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Big post end

OdessitPashka

very long post....
You are right, NA is good if you want to stay trouble free, but there is always a limit to the power. And you have to get your bottle refiled all the time, that's $50 once a month extra, and you might run out of N2O when you really need it. Also, to keep nitrous safe and fully workable(sp), you will need a gauge, purge kit, bottle warmer, etc.

There is a saying about turbo, once you going turbo, you are never done... but the power is always there, and its techinacally free smile.gif

hamhead

I agree turbo is better once you hit ~250whp or more on tibbies. N/A and nitrous don't go that high.

And woops, I forgot all about those little nitrous accessories, and here I was hating on turbo accessories. oops.gif