Dark2400

Its an interesting sequence of event. At first, the master side would only move the passenge side window up, and make a clicking sound when doing so. At the same time, the passenger side switches worked both ways. Now, neither the master, nor the passenger side switch work at all. The master does make the clicking sound when up.

Any ideas?

And NO THE LOCK IS NOT ON tongue.gif
Yes checked the fuses, in boy the engine bay and driver side.
I've taken off the door panel, unplugged, replugged the switch, nothing. No cut/frayed wires from what I can see. No motor sounds, no sounds whatsoever except for the master click.

Thanks in advance.

Dark2400

Anyone?

Stocker

You will receive no help with non-standard questions. wink1.gif

Check the relays.

Dark2400

If it isnt check fuses/relays then we dont have much help? lol.
Ive checked em all, seems like there is nothing wrong.

Stocker

If nothing is wrong, why did you make this thread! drillsergeant.gif

I'm not sure if it goes thru the ETACS module, but it seems to me like all you would need is switches, wires, relays, and motors. Each of those is a PITA but simple to check. If it does go thru a control module, eliminating everything else points to the controle module. Schematics for this should be on hyundaitechinfo.com.

radu_rd2

Maybe the motor is toast. Check out this DIY
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=20667

Dark2400

New symptom, when i click up on the master switch, I hear a tick in the passenger side switch. I wish I had an extra passenger side switch to try it out. I went to the closest hyundai dealership, but they didnt have it in stock. Should I ask around at others?

frozen

Hopefully you have a multimeter and test light.

Stocker, there are no relays or control modules, besides the main relay that feeds the switches.

Pull the drivers side window switch box. To test the switch, probe the Brown/white striped wire for 12V to ground and press the switch UP. You should get 12V. Do the same with the pink wire with the switch DOWN function. If not, the switch is toast. Try the switch in both positions for both wires, I might be mixing up the directions.

There are also two solid brown wires. You should have 12V on both of them, and only one of them if the lock is on. If one of the brown wires is dead and the lock is not on, then the lock switch is broken.

If you pass all of these tests, pull the passenger side switchbox. The brown wire should have a constant 12v with the key on. The brown/black striped wire and the L wire (I'm not sure what color L is...???) are you up and down wires, so test both of these for power with the switch up/down. If you have power here, your motor or wiring between the motor and switch are done. Pull the door panel and repair/replace.

Dark2400

Ok, I tried swapping out the switch and the regulator, nothing. I have yet to try the voltages, since I dont have a tester, but Im going to the store tomorrow to grab one.

Anyone have this happen before?

Stocker

Get yourself a cheap multimeter instead of a 12V "light goes on" tester, or get both.