albert

If clearing the Codes and the ECU get's it to run fine. I'm going to put the blame on the MAF overheating and then failing to read your airflow properly. Move that MAF and it should take care of a majority of your problems. Re-route the BOV and hook it up right, and then you shouldn't have any other problems (besides tuning headaches)

SwiftTiburon

Well my dad said he moved one of the sensors away from all the heat because it was close to it. I think he said it was the air temp sensor..Im not sure, but he said that the sensor being to close to the heat can cause problems..like you said. Hopefully thats what it all was.

albert

There's a BIG difference between the MAF and the IAT (Intake Air Temp Sensor).

The MAF is the big black sensor (about 3" OD and 6" Long) that is between the Air Filter and the Compressor inlet.
The IAT is just a thermistor sensor (about 2" by 1" OD). Your car will run without the IAT sensor, or bad data from the IAT. (not great, but it will run)

The MAF is the sensor that records airflow...it is the CRITICAL sensor. It is the sensor you MUST move to at least 12" away from the Compressor/turbine/exhaust. (i.e. Anything HOT)

DTN

or put a heat shield around it. make one out of a CAI deflector and bolt it to chassy, should keep it runnin' right.

albert

A heat shield won't cut it. The problem is the heat is transmitted via the Compressor to the connector to the MAF.

Even if you use silocone connectors, it still transmits heat. Silocone does heat up, it just doesn't become weak at high temps like rubber does.

That's why you need to make sure that the connector pipe doesn't touch the compressor or the MAF and that there is AT LEAST 12" of piping and space between the compressor and the MAF. Ideally, I'd like to see 24" of pipe with several (3+) silocone connectors as spacers between various metal segments to interupt the flow of heat in the metal parts from the compressor to the MAF.

The heat is transmitted directly via the connected bits (induction), not via thermal radiation, that's why a heat shield around the MAF wouldn't work.

I ran into this problem on the alpine kit when I tried to use a "short" intake that was about 10" long. As soon as I moved back to a longer intake (about 24" long) the problem went away.

DTN

which is why you ground it to transmit heat to the chassy

albert

The turbo moves as the motor moves. if you bolt it to the chassis, you'll either rip the mount out of the chassis, bent/deform the chassis, or bend/break the manifold the turbine is mounted to

If you mount the MAF to the chassis, you'll rip the MAF off the tubing as the turbine/tubing move with the engine.

Just move the damn thing at 12-24" away. It's MUCH easier...

DTN

wait a minute... you're talking about someone ACTUALLY put a MAF right on the turbo? I thought you were saying redirect your pipes 24 inches out. i get it.

Just move the MAF.

Alex01tib

Woah, ok you guys are getting confused, all this talk about moving the MAF, dont worry about it. look at this picture
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The MAF is right by the air filter, so its at least a foot away from the turbo, ill reroute it for her later so that theres a little piping inbetween the MAF and the Filter to smooth out the air flow but i know thats not a problem because mine is like that now and its running great.

What was moved was the IAT sensor, if you look at one of the videos, cant remember which one it was. selina actually points the IAT sensor out, its resting right by the block. This could give a way wrong temp reading and muff things up. Her father moved this up by the filter. Dont know if this was all the problem or if it was mostly resetting the ECU that helped her tib, but it didnt hurt to move it. For now the tib is running fine, i dont know about boosting because niether selina or i have driven it to try it out. Selinas dad is going to check everything including the compression and as long as those checks are good and it drives fine were going to go get it and bring it to viper966 and hes going to tune it with the smt-6 with some additional injectors. It might be upwards of 2-3 weeks but we'll keep you posted.

albert

Okay, from looking at those photos. The MAF is too close to the Manifold and Turbine. You need 12" of Space, not 12" of tubing seperating the 2. Since that intake pipe bends up, that's the way heat travels, you're baking your MAF every time you shut the car off. You want the MAF lower than the Turbo so it doesn't bake/heat soak when you shut the car off.

Move the MAF farther away, and stick the IAT between the air filter and the MAF. Let's see how much that helps your running problem.