Obx Header Install
#11
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your wire is only as strong as your weakest link....
Parts are available at radioshack, but you may as well bend over the counter and pull your pants down if you go in there. I order stuff from Mouser
get some "heat shrink" tubing that actually shrinks well when it gets hot
soldier, soldiering gun, zip ties, isopropyl alcohol, and a flashlight or droplamp.
strip off enough wire to work with Clean the wire with isopropyl alcohol
Slide heat shrink tubing across wire... Usually when strength matters, if it's like 18awg wire, i'll use 2 18AWG heat shrinks and one REALLY long 16. One the size of the opening between the two areas that you've stripped in prep for the soldering and one to slide over once you shrink the first one into the opening then the 3rd will go over the others... now you have to plan it strateigically... long 14, the 18 and the 18 that's just bearly going to fit between the sheilding..
TIN TIN TIN both wires, bend them like little Us at the end and hook them together. Crimp them down so they cannot move and take up less space. Then soldier them together. you will not need alot of soldier, the wires are full of it with tinning.
Slide over and shrink the smallest heat shrink around the exposed wires, then slide the larger one over and shrink it, then slide the big ol' long one over and shrink it.
Cut off the extra heat shrink if it will not make contact with the wire because it will hold water in there.
I gaurantee that if u use the same awg wire, and follow my instructions, you will see no voltage loss or resistance increas in the wire. It will also be the STRONGEST area in the wire.
if you don't believe me then get some larger awg wire, it won't hurt.
Zip tie the fux0r wherever you can.
Remember to measure twice and cut once.
Parts are available at radioshack, but you may as well bend over the counter and pull your pants down if you go in there. I order stuff from Mouser
get some "heat shrink" tubing that actually shrinks well when it gets hot
soldier, soldiering gun, zip ties, isopropyl alcohol, and a flashlight or droplamp.
strip off enough wire to work with Clean the wire with isopropyl alcohol
Slide heat shrink tubing across wire... Usually when strength matters, if it's like 18awg wire, i'll use 2 18AWG heat shrinks and one REALLY long 16. One the size of the opening between the two areas that you've stripped in prep for the soldering and one to slide over once you shrink the first one into the opening then the 3rd will go over the others... now you have to plan it strateigically... long 14, the 18 and the 18 that's just bearly going to fit between the sheilding..
TIN TIN TIN both wires, bend them like little Us at the end and hook them together. Crimp them down so they cannot move and take up less space. Then soldier them together. you will not need alot of soldier, the wires are full of it with tinning.
Slide over and shrink the smallest heat shrink around the exposed wires, then slide the larger one over and shrink it, then slide the big ol' long one over and shrink it.
Cut off the extra heat shrink if it will not make contact with the wire because it will hold water in there.
I gaurantee that if u use the same awg wire, and follow my instructions, you will see no voltage loss or resistance increas in the wire. It will also be the STRONGEST area in the wire.
if you don't believe me then get some larger awg wire, it won't hurt.
Zip tie the fux0r wherever you can.
Remember to measure twice and cut once.
#13
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For all u with the cel because of the header I read that if you have a cel the ecu retards the timing an dumps excess fuel into the combustion chaimber which will grately reduce performance. True? You would think with all the tibs on the road someone would make a header that works with your set up and ecu, or come out with a plug and play to fix it.
#14
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not sure on that one^^^
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (BlackTibby00 @ Apr 22 2005, 03:54 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>How much of an extension are we talking about to extend the first O2 sensor to the collectors?
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>
For OBX headers, talking 6 inches or less for the first sensor (depending on how much electrical tape stripping you remove)
for the second sensor that needs to be moved up toward the header into the flex pipe I'd say about a foot or so.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (BlackTibby00 @ Apr 22 2005, 03:54 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>How much of an extension are we talking about to extend the first O2 sensor to the collectors?
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>
For OBX headers, talking 6 inches or less for the first sensor (depending on how much electrical tape stripping you remove)
for the second sensor that needs to be moved up toward the header into the flex pipe I'd say about a foot or so.
#15
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Vehicle: 2001/Hyundai/Tiburon
for the OBX header you pretty much have to take to a shop to get the o2 sensor moved or get the kspec one for $400, does the obx header sound good, i heard somewhere it sounded buzzy or something
#16
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Had the header on mu car for bout 20 min of drive time. Ran open header because the piece of flex supplied doesn't reach the mid pipe cause you are supposed to add a cat. Heard no buzz though.
Trying to sell it if anyone is interested. Don't have the money to invest on adding the cat thought it would bolt right up. Comes with a racing cat which is straight through nothing inside. Asking $150 plus shipping if someone tells me how to post picts I will if u r interested. Make an offer if u r serious Peace gman
Trying to sell it if anyone is interested. Don't have the money to invest on adding the cat thought it would bolt right up. Comes with a racing cat which is straight through nothing inside. Asking $150 plus shipping if someone tells me how to post picts I will if u r interested. Make an offer if u r serious Peace gman
#18
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Vehicle: 2001 hyundai tiburon
i have weld the bung sensor in the y of the header , like this i have two cylinder , so you have your 2 oxygen sensor before the cat and i never have trouble whit the cell and i have done 30 000 km from this time
#19
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^^^Your talking about welding the bung in the collector pipe correct? And then you have the second one in the bung provided in the flex pipe instead of after the cat like most people are doing?
Is this proper?
Also what if you put the 1st O2 sensor in the bung provided in the flex pipe, then make a bung after the cat and put the second O2 there? Would that work theoretically?
Is this proper?
Also what if you put the 1st O2 sensor in the bung provided in the flex pipe, then make a bung after the cat and put the second O2 there? Would that work theoretically?