Ericy321

Update: Pulled piping off the IC and there was nothing there. No water or anything on either side. So Im thinking that Im ok there. And my t-bolts were super tight so I think Im safe there. Anyway Im still looking for suggestions because I am so lost right now. I just dont get it. I tried everything I can think of. I guess Ill pull the rail and make sure the injectors are working.

REDZMAN

Honestly my man, think about the way we usually handle these issues.

Go step by step, one item at a time, check and double check, and start at the last modification and work backwards.

As soon as I did that, I found my CKP was loose and that's why my engine kept stalling out.

Ericy321

Ive double and triple checked everything. And the mod was washing the engine bay and theres no water anywhere. And sometimes it runs absolutely perfect. I need to borrow the scantool from work and bring it home.

REDZMAN

Hmmm, have you checked all of your connectors? Some water may have gotten into the MAF or TPS connector...

Start her up if she'll start and wiggle all of the sensors/connectors to see if it happens again.

Ericy321

Ya hopefully tonight after work. I tried it before and it kept running good for a few minutes. Even tapped the sensors with a screw driver to see if I could get it to act up. I was using a laptop scan tool from Jay but it was being wierd. I have to learn to use it better before I use it to diagnose something. Im going to borrow my works snapon scanner tonight or monday.

Checked everything again. Pulled the rail and watched the injectors work. One thing that through me off though. Somehow I got another code to pop up: P0202 (could have been 204. My generic book tells me thats a injector circuit fault. HMAservice says thats a specific injector fault (cylinder 2 or 4) They are working perfectly as far as I can tell and I had my noid light on them and they were pulsing OK.

Swapped cam sensor out of the other RD2, no change. One question on crank sensor. There is an oring and like a groove on the sensor. Does the oring sit on the slimmer part and go into the block or on the fat part and go between the sensor and block where you can see it when looking down there. I have it on the fat part and can see it. But I seem to remember the other car getting the o-ring stuck in the bluck and getting it with a screwdriver. Maybe I have it wrong?

Otherwise still cranks great. It does start to combust but then doesnt. It will do that a couple times each crank. Changed plugs also. Cylinder 3 seemed to be kind of wet, smelled like gas.

Im still stumped

tanc

Check your timing and also check valve timing as well.

Ericy321

For valve timing its ok as long as the chain is set right (with the marks) and the cam gear is set with the rest of the timing right? Ill look it up and get to it Sunday most likely

Ericy321

I was able to get the car started with the use of brakleen in the intake. Ignition is good, timing is good. I took my noid light and Im just not getting good pulses. Its very random when it pulses. I can give it ground at the ecu for a cylinder and make it pulse.

Now I have swapped cam sensor and crank sensor. Is there anything else driving the fuel signal that doesnt effect ignition as well. If ignition is working, fuel should be also if the crank and cam sensors are ok I thought. Any ideas.

Ericy321

I think ive figured it out but havent tested it yet. I think running the few pounds of boost with no real tuning has maxed out my injectors and friend them. Then when the ecu tries to pulse them its not getting the right signal back and cutting the fuel in order to protect things. I think it makes sense and I know they had to be on max duty cycle. Im going to find some to swap and go from there.

I need my megasquirt.

Regit

I put my new motor in,fired up first try,had a minor gas leak,so I turned it off, fixed the leak ,would'nt start again? next day it started fine , ran it to bleed the coolent and then just died???,did all the checking and tracing I could do( I only have a meter) ,So off to the shop with my spark/ignition problem,Started at the shop as well on a battery charger,and died 5 minuts later,and would not start again After hours and hours of continuity tests,parts swaps from the other tib,oscilliscopes,wire,pin and connector chase's,we were led to believe there was a fault in the ecu,or a failing dual igniter(working sparatically)...last night, we used a bulb tester instead of a led tester and probed the wires on the coilpack plug ,and watched the bulb brighten ever so slowly?(which you can't see with a led tester), so we find a relay in the line(a 5 pin suntech),jump the realy and starts no problem!(not sure why Gary had one there?).got a free relay in tonight and no more spark/igniter issues!I'll replace all relay with bosch ones soon.

Check all relays Ericy321,even though they read and show fine,they can be intermittent, Only when it was opened up with a razorblade ,could I physically tell it was fried from the contained burnt smell.
Just food for thought, T'was the reason mine would'nt start.