My New Strut Brace...(finished)
#11
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Vehicle: 2001/Hyundai/Tiburon
looking good, i think you should have made the tubes come through the brackets with semi-squared off ends though, and a bolt going through. this way you could put tension on the bar with some weight in the middle and get it really tight. right now its just relying completely on your measurements, when can get f-ed up when you weld anyway. would make the actual bar easier to get out of the way too if you needed access to the intake or something. only one bolt off and another loose, instead of all 6.
but im nit-picking. looks tits. fing02.gif wink1.gif
but im nit-picking. looks tits. fing02.gif wink1.gif
#12
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Vehicle: 1997 Tiburon
HKC, everything you see in that engine bay from the piping to the wiring to the dual rail kit was made by me. The strut bar is painted, I want to see how long it lasts and I might modify it later. Btw, I'm not using an alpine kit or an alpine turbo. Read sentence above lol
Alex, Thanks for the compliments. It's Tig welded, and I have not made these for anyone else. I'm only one man and it's just not worth doing it yet.
T01, I was going to go that exact same route but than I'd be relying on bolts like all the other strut bars on the market. Do you see roll cages bolted at the connection points? lol Anyhow, now matter how tight you can get the strut bar, it won't make much of a noticeable difference. It is good to have a minimal amount of play so it's not always under tension as it would start to ruin the handling of the vehicle. What I did do tho is use measurements when the car is relaxed jacked up. The bar fits nicely once its jacked, once I drop the car you can't remove the bar unless you jack it up. So you see it's still has a small amount of tension on it.
Thanks for the compliments everyone.
Alex, Thanks for the compliments. It's Tig welded, and I have not made these for anyone else. I'm only one man and it's just not worth doing it yet.
T01, I was going to go that exact same route but than I'd be relying on bolts like all the other strut bars on the market. Do you see roll cages bolted at the connection points? lol Anyhow, now matter how tight you can get the strut bar, it won't make much of a noticeable difference. It is good to have a minimal amount of play so it's not always under tension as it would start to ruin the handling of the vehicle. What I did do tho is use measurements when the car is relaxed jacked up. The bar fits nicely once its jacked, once I drop the car you can't remove the bar unless you jack it up. So you see it's still has a small amount of tension on it.
Thanks for the compliments everyone.
#15
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ah, nice idea. well then yeah, in that case bolts are really only for convenience and it is better to have it all welded.
i'll have to keep that in mind if i give one a shot.
i'll have to keep that in mind if i give one a shot.
#16
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Thanks for the hom...I mean guys! Just wait till everything is finished! It's been in that spot for about 2 1/4 years LOL.
t01, convenience isn't a big deal for me. 2 Bolts, or 6 bolts don't make much of a difference for me except for 3 more minutes lol smile.gif
t01, convenience isn't a big deal for me. 2 Bolts, or 6 bolts don't make much of a difference for me except for 3 more minutes lol smile.gif
#17
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Vehicle: 2001 hyundai tiburon
lookin' good Tanc.
I got to play with my new Miller Maxstar 150 stl tonight on my breaks. I was very happy to find out how well this nice little machine can run on 110v at 90 amps. It also has the capabilites to run 220v .
I got to play with my new Miller Maxstar 150 stl tonight on my breaks. I was very happy to find out how well this nice little machine can run on 110v at 90 amps. It also has the capabilites to run 220v .
#18
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Tanc, you do some of the most awesome work on the site. I wish I knew how to work metal or wood like I do plastic, rubber, ABS, and electronics.