Norubit

I found a 2000 Elantra today at a local Junkyard that looked like it had the identical engine and auto tranny. It was in a light front end accident and didn't touch the motor nor the tranny.

Does anyone know what exactly is the difference between the Elantra's tranny and my Tiburon's tranny? Or why it would not work in my car? If it is sensor's or something, Could I swap them? The reason I ask is I can get this tranny for like $100.00 with a 30 day guarantee.

Thanks in advance..

Stocker

The way they talk to the car is different, and I think the solenoids may be different. If you can get it with a guarantee, and the connectors look EXACTLY the same, that might be a good bet. However, as mentioned, there is a good chance the transaxle you found will be incompatible due to changes throughout the model years. It's easy enough usually to find a good compatible unit, so I have never seen someone go to the effort to do a transmission-year conversion. Possibly it may include everything up to the wiring harness and the transmission control module. The TCM is minor work to change, the wiring harness, huge.

These automatics have two problems. One is that Hyundai built the car with a sub-optimal transmission oil cooler. They ALL ALWAYS run 10-15 degrees too hot and burn the oil. The second is that if the wrong oil is used, the clutch packs WILL fail (friction material turns to black liquid sludge) and you lose (typically) fourth, then third, then all gears. Symptoms are the same as a slipping clutch in a manual transmission car.

Norubit

OK, I have a Tranny now. So I am looking over the deal on how to attack this. I am wondering would it be best to remove the center brace that supports the tranny and engine when pulling the tranny. I think I need to remove the Axles first, then unbolt the transmission, Right??

Stocker

Support the engine. It has only one side mount holding it when the transaxle is removed.

The axles: you can unbolt the struts and pull the differential-ends of the axles out without undoing the big nut on the spindle (and having to reset it to the proper torque) but you "should" get an alignment done afterward. Remove them and the crossmember before removing the transaxle.

Remember that the transaxle weighs at least as much as you do, if you can fit in a Tiburon and drive without getting a steering wheel burn on your belly. Be careful down there.

Norubit

Thank you, I appreciate the advice. I am contemplating on when to change the Filter and think I'll do it when I got the tranny in the car again. Would you say I should use a Hyundai Brand Filter or will an aftermarket do? I want to do this right with the correct fluid but if the filter is not so critical I can get one of those tomorrow from a local parts store. The oil I'll get Monday.

Thanks in advance

Stocker

The filter is sold by the same people who can sell you the oil. You may as well save a trip to another vendor for the filter. I agree with your idea of changing the filter with the trans. already on the car.

The advice to support the engine: we almost dropped mine on my dad's chest one time. I don't think I'll forget to support the engine again.

Norubit

OK, I swapped the tranny out today. Now I just need to wait for the fluid and the filter.

I am going to detail how I did it here to the best I can remember, just in case it helps someone else.

Step One, Obvious stuff like removed the Battery, the Air cleaner box with all the air ducting stuff that connects to that and then the battery tray.

Step two, I disconnected the Shifter Cable and all the plugs that went to the tranny including the tranny cooler lines.

Step three, Unbolted the passenger's side and driver's side lower control arm ball joint nuts. Then popped the ball joints out with a few mild hits of a 3lbs hammer to the side of the lower spindle where the ball joint slips in to. It works like a charm smile.gif.

Step four, Loosened the top two tranny bolts and removed the Starter.

Step five, Removed the center cross brace/bracket that supports the tranny and engine.

Step six, I then removed the aluminum bracket that bolts the lower part of the engine to the tranny. Then removed the inspection cover.

Step seven, I unbolted the three torque converter bolts and used a big screwdriver to pop loose the axles. I wound up removing the drivers side axle as it made it easier to remove the tranny. The Passenger's side didn't need to remove from the spindle.

Step eight, Unbolted the last two bolts on each side of the tranny and the small little bolt just to the right of the exhaust manifold that holds a part of a shield for the tranny and supports some wires.

Step nine, Removed one of the two top bolts and ran a Jack under the oil pan with a 4x4 chunk of wood to go between the pan and the jack's pad. I then jacked it up to just enough to take the weight off the tranny mount on the drivers side.

Step ten, Unbolted and removed the tranny mount bolt and lowered the jack all the way down.

Step eleven, After the engine got to the lowest point it was going to go I then ran the jack (and a piece of 2x6 that served the same purpose as the 4x4 piece did but this time for the tranny's pan) under the tranny and pumped it up enough to remove the last bolt on the top to free the tranny all the way.

Step twelve, I then lowered the tranny all the way down as far as the jack would go. Had a neighbor help guide it down of course and then while I lifted the tranny just enough (by leaning over the drivers fender) to have my neighbor pull the jack out and then I lowered the tranny down to the ground from there.

Step thirteen, Let out a HUGE Yeeeehaaaa.. smile.gif

Step fourteen, Reversed the process but this time I used a piece of an old seat belt to strap around the replacement tranny and lifted it up with an engine hoist far enough to run the tranny mount bolt through the tranny mount on the tranny and driver's side frame. I then used the Hoist to bring up the engine and the Jack to lift up the tranny to get them aliened so I could bolt them together. First I got one bolt on the top threaded and then the one bolt just below the front tranny mount. Finally got all of the bolts threaded and cinched them all down and continued to reverse the process from there that I used for removing the tranny.

All in All a PITA but only took me 4 hours and that included 20ish minutes for lunch..

So if anyone else out there has questions on R&R their Auto, Just PM me.

Thanks everyone.

Almost forget, Two things I did different at the end was to install an aftermarket tranny cooler and a cold air intake.<u></u><u></u>

Stocker

+1 and good job on the oil cooler. Be double-sure you torque the spindle nut to spec.