I've Done The Innevitable
08-25-2008, 08:16 AM
#11
Super Moderator
The head uses (I think) 10 and 12mm allen keys for the head bolts. Drain the coolant, and there will still be a little coolant and some oil left in the head, so have some shop towels handy. You have to unbolt/remove all the manifolds, accessory mounting, hoses, belts, etc. that touch the head, to get it off (obviously). The worst part will be the intake manifold, and even that's not too hard. The main thing to be careful of is that you have to torque the head bolts in sequence, then adjust them a certain number of degrees, twice. Get that part correct!
If your head gasket failed between the cylinder and a coolant passage, that would explain what you've got there. The tapping may be the pressure leaking, or a bad HLA. The HLA is easiest to check first.
If your head gasket failed between the cylinder and a coolant passage, that would explain what you've got there. The tapping may be the pressure leaking, or a bad HLA. The HLA is easiest to check first.
08-25-2008, 02:24 PM
#12
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Vehicle: 1998 Hyundai Coupe
I really want to have a go at doing this myself. I will save like £400 - £500.
How can I check the hydraulic lash adjusters?
Is there an easy way to correctly seat the valve without opening the head? i.e from the top with the rocker cover off?
From the service manual:
1. Drain the coolant and disconnect the upper radiator hose.
2. Remove the breather hose (between the air cleaner and the head cover).
3. Remove the air-intake hose.
4. Remove the vacuum hose, fuel hose and coolant hose.
5. Remove the cables from the spark plugs. The cables should be removed by holding the boot portion.
6. Remove the ignition coil.
7. Remove the power steering oil pump and bracket.
8. Remove the intake manifold.
9. Remove the heat protector and exhaust manifold assembly.
10. Remove the coolant pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley.
11. Remove the timing belt cover.
12. Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley.
13. Remove the timing belt.
14. Remove the head cover.
15. Remove the cylinder head assembly. The cylinder head bolts should be removed by using Special Tool, Cylinder Head Bolt Wrench (09221-32001, 09221-11000), in the sequence as shown in the illustration in two or three steps.
My supercharger is bolted directly onto the intake manifold so this is going to be an extra long procedure for me!!
Is that special tool just the allen keys?
Sorry for the questions but I have just had enough of this car and reluctantly put it on ebay.co.uk. If I know I can do it myself then I will probably sort it and keep the car.
How can I check the hydraulic lash adjusters?
Is there an easy way to correctly seat the valve without opening the head? i.e from the top with the rocker cover off?
From the service manual:
1. Drain the coolant and disconnect the upper radiator hose.
2. Remove the breather hose (between the air cleaner and the head cover).
3. Remove the air-intake hose.
4. Remove the vacuum hose, fuel hose and coolant hose.
5. Remove the cables from the spark plugs. The cables should be removed by holding the boot portion.
6. Remove the ignition coil.
7. Remove the power steering oil pump and bracket.
8. Remove the intake manifold.
9. Remove the heat protector and exhaust manifold assembly.
10. Remove the coolant pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley.
11. Remove the timing belt cover.
12. Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley.
13. Remove the timing belt.
14. Remove the head cover.
15. Remove the cylinder head assembly. The cylinder head bolts should be removed by using Special Tool, Cylinder Head Bolt Wrench (09221-32001, 09221-11000), in the sequence as shown in the illustration in two or three steps.
My supercharger is bolted directly onto the intake manifold so this is going to be an extra long procedure for me!!
Is that special tool just the allen keys?
Sorry for the questions but I have just had enough of this car and reluctantly put it on ebay.co.uk. If I know I can do it myself then I will probably sort it and keep the car.
08-25-2008, 10:00 PM
#13
Super Moderator
Checking the Hydraulic Lash Adjusters (from the instructions on Webtech, from memory): run the engine for 15 minutes at 2000-3000RPM. For new HLAs or HLAs that have lost pressure or leaked down from sitting several days, exceeding 3000RPM during this period may damage them. With the engine still at operating temperature, pull the valve cover and push on the top of the HLA by hand. You should NOT be able to depress it manually. If you can, the HLA is bad. Beware, it will be hot in there!
IF the valve is NOT bent, and there is just a big chunk of crud on the seating face, then MAYBE you could spin it manually with the head on the engine, and see if it would free up whatever was preventing it making a seal. You'd want to make sure the piston on that chamber was at the top of the cylinder or you could drop the valve INTO the cylinder, and then the head is coming off for sure! Check the piston is up by putting a long screwdriver down the spark plug hole and rotate the engine manually, until the screwdriver is as high as it gets, pushed up by the piston.
Pull the valve cover, compress the valve spring, remove the retainer/keeper and valve spring, and see if you can feel anything funky going on with that one or that pair of valves. You can only see the intake valves a little from the intake ports, so removing the intake manifold would be of limited use if you're playing with the head ON the engine. As long as you're this far into it, check the exhaust valves on that cylinder also. You can NOT see the exhaust valves from the exhaust ports (there is a 90 degree bend in the runner).
Pulling the cylinder head is a lot of work on paper, but really it's a couple of hours' work only. And consider, if it's just a bad gasket, you had to replace that anyways when the head went back on... And consider how much money you already have "invested" in the car to this point; is another 75 pounds really that much? Do you really dislike the car, or are you just afraid of what may be wrong with it? Is it worth another day turning wrenches to keep this auto?
The special tool is an allen key. I used an allen key mated to a 3/8" drive on a 3/8" ratchet with no problem. Remember to remove/install head bolts in proper sequence (sequence and specifications can be found on webtech). The headbolts are reusable an unlimited number of times.
IF the valve is NOT bent, and there is just a big chunk of crud on the seating face, then MAYBE you could spin it manually with the head on the engine, and see if it would free up whatever was preventing it making a seal. You'd want to make sure the piston on that chamber was at the top of the cylinder or you could drop the valve INTO the cylinder, and then the head is coming off for sure! Check the piston is up by putting a long screwdriver down the spark plug hole and rotate the engine manually, until the screwdriver is as high as it gets, pushed up by the piston.
Pull the valve cover, compress the valve spring, remove the retainer/keeper and valve spring, and see if you can feel anything funky going on with that one or that pair of valves. You can only see the intake valves a little from the intake ports, so removing the intake manifold would be of limited use if you're playing with the head ON the engine. As long as you're this far into it, check the exhaust valves on that cylinder also. You can NOT see the exhaust valves from the exhaust ports (there is a 90 degree bend in the runner).
Pulling the cylinder head is a lot of work on paper, but really it's a couple of hours' work only. And consider, if it's just a bad gasket, you had to replace that anyways when the head went back on... And consider how much money you already have "invested" in the car to this point; is another 75 pounds really that much? Do you really dislike the car, or are you just afraid of what may be wrong with it? Is it worth another day turning wrenches to keep this auto?
The special tool is an allen key. I used an allen key mated to a 3/8" drive on a 3/8" ratchet with no problem. Remember to remove/install head bolts in proper sequence (sequence and specifications can be found on webtech). The headbolts are reusable an unlimited number of times.
08-26-2008, 03:56 AM
#14
Moderator
Last time I replaced a head gasket, the head itself was warped. Make sure you take the head to a local machine shop and have them hone it flat so that the gasket can be effective.
.... or you could just risk doing the work for nothing.
.... or you could just risk doing the work for nothing.
08-26-2008, 07:59 AM
#15
Super Moderator
Spec on head deck flatness is 0.5mm I think, and it's not too hard to check with a good straightedge after you clean the gunk off the bottom of the head.
09-06-2008, 08:32 AM
#16
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Vehicle: 1998 Hyundai Coupe
Thanks for the input stocker.....I am going to pull the head myself and keep the car. Please be on standby incase something goes wrong!!lol
Will this head bolt on directly to the 2.0l...?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HYUNDAI-COUPE-1-8-16...bayphotohosting
Will this head bolt on directly to the 2.0l...?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HYUNDAI-COUPE-1-8-16...bayphotohosting
09-06-2008, 05:50 PM
#19
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Little bend on the on the top of the spark plug channel MJ or does it have something to do with the red fluid?
Bal have you tried putting a little oil on top of the #3 piston then running the compression test?
Bal have you tried putting a little oil on top of the #3 piston then running the compression test?
09-06-2008, 07:41 PM
#20
Super Moderator
Coal_forge raises an excellent point. Add a squirt of engine oil down through the spark plug hole on the cylinder with low compression, and crank the engine a few times to distribute the oil around the rings. Run the compression test again, and if the number goes up dramatically, you will know that the piston rings are worn out.
You'd still need to pull the head.
That eBay head looks like it would be just the ticket. It *should* even have the 1.8L intake cam (this is a very slight upgrade), as it's a 1.8L head.
However, compared to the price of a few gaskets . . . ouch.
I still give even odds of "just" a blown head gasket. You'll never know till you look. So, look. There's plenty of help here and other places online; don't be afraid of removing bolts from chunks of metal, they're just that! It's disheartening when your engine is sick, and it can be intimidating to jump in with both wrenches, but give it a go. What are you going to do, make it run WORSE? lmao.gif
You'd still need to pull the head.
That eBay head looks like it would be just the ticket. It *should* even have the 1.8L intake cam (this is a very slight upgrade), as it's a 1.8L head.
However, compared to the price of a few gaskets . . . ouch.
I still give even odds of "just" a blown head gasket. You'll never know till you look. So, look. There's plenty of help here and other places online; don't be afraid of removing bolts from chunks of metal, they're just that! It's disheartening when your engine is sick, and it can be intimidating to jump in with both wrenches, but give it a go. What are you going to do, make it run WORSE? lmao.gif