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I've Done The Innevitable

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Old 08-23-2008, 11:30 AM
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I know, I know....shouldn't have over tightened the bolt. The bolt is out but the thread on the head is gone.

Now the problem is I need some advice on how to rethread the damn thing.

I have a tapping kit so I can use that but then I need a bigger bolt, I can use 8mm tapper but the bolt won't fit for sure.

Can i just drill the 'U' shaped clip thing that holds the cam inplace to accept the 8 mm bolt?

Would it be wise to use a epoxy compound or something to hold the 6 mm bolt in place or would it be wiser to try and get my hands on a 7 mm bolt...I don't think they do 7mm bolts anymore?

Does someone have an easy way to do this?
Old 08-23-2008, 11:59 AM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMbcUa7RAk0
Old 08-23-2008, 03:21 PM
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If I use helicoil then I have to drill the hole out larger then the little sleve thing that the U shaped clamp fits onto, would that be ok?
Old 08-23-2008, 05:14 PM
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Perfectly OK. My whole head now is heli-coiled because I didnt want to keep doing one or two at a time. That damn aluminum is to soft.
Old 08-23-2008, 07:58 PM
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Guys, I would want to laugh at you but next time I was in there, Murphy would make me break a bolt off in the head.

My dad had a chuckle at my expense today, he came over to help me diagnose a noise in my car, and the cam bolt I was tightening was turning a bit more than the others before the torque wrench clicked -it hadn't quite had all the slack taken out yet. I backed off and started again and he said "had you worried for a second there didn't it?"

This is the 4th time now I've changed out intake cams, and and I went slow and used a torque wrench at 6 and then 9lbs, and haven't broken a bolt yet... I'm not trying to be smarty, I'm asking so I don't do it next time: what are you all doing when you break these cam bolts off? What circumstances exactly? I have already heard one person say they were waiting for their torque wrench to click when a bolt broke (they missed the click? )

BTW, helicoils are plenty strong, as long as there is enough material to support them (there is, in this case). Trust them completely, like Ericy321 does. I would. The U shaped thing, you can call a journal. The part that comes off, is the cap. There is no bearing insert.
Old 08-24-2008, 02:46 PM
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I have rethreaded the hole to an 8mm bolt, it works like a charm. But I think the valve may be messed up.

I took the car for a drive, everything was going smooth, i didn't even go full throttle and suddenly loss of power???

The car seems like it is in limp mode, no pick up no power.

I am going to check the compression tommorrow to see if I have blown a gasket...does anyone know what compression should be in psi for 8.8:1 pistons?

I am assuming stock compression should read 213psi with 10:1 pistons...multiply that by 0.88 and we get 187psi. Is that correct??

How hard is it to replace a valve?
Old 08-24-2008, 08:54 PM
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If you have a valve ready to use and everything else is okay, it's cake. Remove the head, remove the retainer & keepers on that valve, poke the valve out, poke the new one in, preferably lap it to its new seat, reinstall retainer/keepers, reinstall head. Note: that reads way easier and several HOURS faster than it takes to do it in real life.

Cost: <$100 for new gaskets and a single valve. Probably.
Old 08-25-2008, 05:28 AM
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The results are in:

Counting from the left -
Cylinder 1 : 140 psi - this is the one that had the 8 mm bolt
Cylinder 2 : 150 psi
Cylinder 3 : 40 psi
Cylinder 4 : 150 psi

Something tells me I have a problem with cylinder 3 duh_1.gif

There is no froth in the oil but there are traces of oil in the radiator. For some reason alot of fluid is in the expansion tank too.

I was thinking I can use that crack repair fluid based on copper and stuff to seal the head gasket if that is the problem. But I doubt I can loose that much compression over a leak in the head gasket because all other cylinders are fine.

I think it may be the valves not closing properly or something similar. I can hear a sharp tapping noise from the rocker cover when the car is started.

Would the hydraulic lash adjusters cause this kind of compression loss?

The problem is I have never taken the head off the car and hence fit a head gasket or timing belt...so I would be very unexperienced on this part of the engine. But I would give it a go if it doesn't require any special tools.

Mechanics in the UK are usually as thick as sh*t and don't even know where to start...e.g. I had to give the guy written and verbal instructions when he was fitting the fidanza flywheel and clutch.

They are usually very reluctant to even touch the car when they see the supercharger so I will eventually have to do it myself or find someone that charges an extortionate rate to do it for me.

Does anyone have any ideas on what it may be or how I can diagnose the problem further?

Old 08-25-2008, 05:58 AM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Bal @ Aug 25 2008, 07:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I think it may be the valves not closing properly or something similar. I can hear a sharp tapping noise from the rocker cover when the car is started.

Would the hydraulic lash adjusters cause this kind of compression loss?</div>

If you had a bad HLA and it was fully decompressed and not functioning, It would stuggle to open the valve at all so the valve would stay closed. It would make a horrible tapping noise but it would not be causing the valve to stay open. Now if your HLA went and your valve didnt seat right then that could explain things.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Bal @ Aug 25 2008, 07:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>The problem is I have never taken the head off the car and hence fit a head gasket or timing belt...so I would be very inexperienced on this part of the engine. But I would give it a go if it doesn't require any special tools.</div>

There is an excellent timing belt DIY on here for your timing belt. As for removing the head, You would want to follow the DIY for the cam swap to remove your cams and then there are I believe hex allen wrench type bolts that hold the head onto the block. I do not believe anyone has done a DIY on how to remove a head.







Old 08-25-2008, 06:05 AM
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just looks for any of the threads when M_J or jonGTR did their full rebuilds, plenty of head info in there.



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