Idle Bog
06-22-2006, 04:34 PM
#21
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
Mine does that too... it has never "bogged" on me though.
When slowing down for a light, or right after startup, the car will rev between 1700-1900, pulsing, then settle back down when I come to a complete stop.
My car also dies when I try and turn on the Ac and settles @ 500RPM or so.
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I'm going to fix this problem one way or another, if I find out why, I'll let you guys know.
When slowing down for a light, or right after startup, the car will rev between 1700-1900, pulsing, then settle back down when I come to a complete stop.
My car also dies when I try and turn on the Ac and settles @ 500RPM or so.
---
I'm going to fix this problem one way or another, if I find out why, I'll let you guys know.
06-22-2006, 04:43 PM
#22
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Vehicle: 97 Tib
Mine does it ONLY when idling, or stopped. It will never rev UP, but only bog down. Never dies, but it gets close, it feels like I'm in first, letting off the clutch and not giving it any gas (except I'm not moving of course wink1.gif)
Everyone else seems to have revving up problems? hmm..Where's Mad-machine! He says this happens to his car all the time .. I want your input mang.
Everyone else seems to have revving up problems? hmm..Where's Mad-machine! He says this happens to his car all the time .. I want your input mang.
10-26-2006, 10:40 AM
#23
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Having similar problem. This is what happened. (car was functioning fine with the TC)
a. Removed turbo charger (for vehicle inspection) + overhaul all gasket and valves
b. Installed a AEM CAI
c. Problem 1 - when aircon is on, idle drop from 700-800rpm to 500rpm (instead of increasing)
d. Driving without aircon is ok. *but sometimes it feels weird eg high load feeling and bogging when i try to accelerate from around 1000 - 2000 rpm*
e. Problem 2 - Driving with aircon on (kicking in) - Engine will stall when changing gear (rpm drops real fast to abt 200 rpm and engine will stall)
f. Problem 3 - from cold start when headlight is on..engine rpm drop to about 500 rpm also. (shall attribute this to alternator load...cos the effect is not felt after engine has warm up)
g. Vacuum dropped from -62 psi to -55 psi when aircon is on.
Tried the following with not much differences.
1. Increase grouding around engine and alternator (short of big 3 wire mod cos battery relocated to trunk)
2. Check and changed most vacuum hose...inspected aircon vacuum hose
3. Check FPR pressure (45psi)
4. Changed spark plugs
Suspect the following/to do...
1. AEM allowing too much air to enter thru the idle speed actuator valve
2. ISA not functioning (trying scrapyard)
3. TB screw adjustment?
4. ECU not detecting closed loop idle? (have spare ECU tuned for 350cc/min injectors...waiting for injectors)
5. Battery no longer functioning properly?
6. FPR no longer functioning?
This seems to be quite common issue when an AEM CAI is used, anyone managed to solve the problem??
a. Removed turbo charger (for vehicle inspection) + overhaul all gasket and valves
b. Installed a AEM CAI
c. Problem 1 - when aircon is on, idle drop from 700-800rpm to 500rpm (instead of increasing)
d. Driving without aircon is ok. *but sometimes it feels weird eg high load feeling and bogging when i try to accelerate from around 1000 - 2000 rpm*
e. Problem 2 - Driving with aircon on (kicking in) - Engine will stall when changing gear (rpm drops real fast to abt 200 rpm and engine will stall)
f. Problem 3 - from cold start when headlight is on..engine rpm drop to about 500 rpm also. (shall attribute this to alternator load...cos the effect is not felt after engine has warm up)
g. Vacuum dropped from -62 psi to -55 psi when aircon is on.
Tried the following with not much differences.
1. Increase grouding around engine and alternator (short of big 3 wire mod cos battery relocated to trunk)
2. Check and changed most vacuum hose...inspected aircon vacuum hose
3. Check FPR pressure (45psi)
4. Changed spark plugs
Suspect the following/to do...
1. AEM allowing too much air to enter thru the idle speed actuator valve
2. ISA not functioning (trying scrapyard)
3. TB screw adjustment?
4. ECU not detecting closed loop idle? (have spare ECU tuned for 350cc/min injectors...waiting for injectors)
5. Battery no longer functioning properly?
6. FPR no longer functioning?
This seems to be quite common issue when an AEM CAI is used, anyone managed to solve the problem??
10-26-2006, 01:22 PM
#24
Moderator
ok... quick simple cheap things that people forget about sometimes that may cause idle bog..
TPS bad- Change it out with a new one
MAF dirty/oily- clean w/ contact cleaner spray, no touching.
PCV valve old- change
Spark Plugs worn - change
oil old- change
Plug wire worn - change it out
Idle too low- adjust the idle screw.
That's all I can think of right now.
The last one is tricky though... You gotta watch where you idle. If your engine is idling too low then the air bypass will open, also it opens when you turn on your A/C. Your engine should idle at 750-950 and 1000-1200 with the A/C on.
TPS bad- Change it out with a new one
MAF dirty/oily- clean w/ contact cleaner spray, no touching.
PCV valve old- change
Spark Plugs worn - change
oil old- change
Plug wire worn - change it out
Idle too low- adjust the idle screw.
That's all I can think of right now.
The last one is tricky though... You gotta watch where you idle. If your engine is idling too low then the air bypass will open, also it opens when you turn on your A/C. Your engine should idle at 750-950 and 1000-1200 with the A/C on.
10-31-2006, 08:58 AM
#25
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This is what I've done so far
1. Tighted the throttle cable and the idle went above 1000 rpm.
2. Loosen it back...but idle remained high...no more bogging. (with AC idle dropped to 800-900rpm)
3. Reset the ECU...idle still high....
4. 1 day later..
5. Idle begin to come down...now 900 (w/o A/C) and 700-800 (w A/C)...no bogging but looks like it will continue to fall...
6. Check using OBD2...idle is detected
7. ABS error code LOW VOLTAGE
8. CRANKSHAFT SENSOR FAULTY
9 TPS 11% when closed (within specs??)
Car seems fine till now...*cross fingers*
1. Tighted the throttle cable and the idle went above 1000 rpm.
2. Loosen it back...but idle remained high...no more bogging. (with AC idle dropped to 800-900rpm)
3. Reset the ECU...idle still high....
4. 1 day later..
5. Idle begin to come down...now 900 (w/o A/C) and 700-800 (w A/C)...no bogging but looks like it will continue to fall...
6. Check using OBD2...idle is detected
7. ABS error code LOW VOLTAGE
8. CRANKSHAFT SENSOR FAULTY
9 TPS 11% when closed (within specs??)
Car seems fine till now...*cross fingers*
10-31-2006, 10:30 AM
#26
Moderator
idle should increase when you turn on the AC. turn up your idle, your idle bypass may be constantly engaged just to keep the car running. Maybe you need a new idle bypass solenoid.