Iat Resistor
#11
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heres the thing. fuel demands at certain rpms and air vlume readings is not linear. a resistor is only ONE value. cannot vary. that value affects the reading of air the ecu sees at a constant rate. so, it might help at like 2k rpms(making your car run less rich), but at 5k, it could actually be hurting you, leaning out your normally rich a/f so much that you are running lean at high rpms, a recipe for some nice melted hunks of metal banging around in your engine.
#12
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TAKE OUT YOUR OVERPRICED RESISTOR! :unsure:
Nothing but snake oil
Anyway, get a CAI, an Ebay one, AEM one, or whatever.
BTW, the IAT sensor is around $25 at the dealership if you managed to screw it up when you remove / installed the resistor.
And like UntraTibby mentioned, the tib runs real rich from factory.
You want to LEAN it out, with something like a SAFC, not make it any richer than it is now. Like REDZ mentioned, you're just wasting fuel.
COT damn, I wish I had thougth of that Ebay scam, I'm sure they sold LOTS, that's why they keep doing it.
Nothing but snake oil
Anyway, get a CAI, an Ebay one, AEM one, or whatever.
BTW, the IAT sensor is around $25 at the dealership if you managed to screw it up when you remove / installed the resistor.
And like UntraTibby mentioned, the tib runs real rich from factory.
You want to LEAN it out, with something like a SAFC, not make it any richer than it is now. Like REDZ mentioned, you're just wasting fuel.
COT damn, I wish I had thougth of that Ebay scam, I'm sure they sold LOTS, that's why they keep doing it.
#13
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (landshark16 @ May 12 2005, 07:39 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'>So if i get a CAI from ebay for like $50..it will...even it out....if thats what your trying to say..I would get a AEM but im a little short on $$$ so thats all i could really afford. So basically all intakes are similar. Correct? One just cost more than the other.
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>
No, that won't "Even it out", you'll just compound a dangerous problem with unknown factors.
No, all intakes aren't the same, it's more than just price.
1. Quality is in what you buy. I've seen cheap 50 dollar intakes with poor welds, vent tubes that are all welded up. Edges that are not finished well can cut your sillicone connectors and get silicone bits into your engine. Not good.
2. Filter position. There are about 3 or 4 different CAI designs out there for us, the cheaper ones are usually the shorter ones and still have you sucking in WARM AIR (like the Injen and it's clones). You want COLDer air from outside the engine bay. The AEM and it's clones and a few others put the filter behind your fog lights, a very nice place to get air that is MUCH cooler than in your engine bay. Remember, colder air is denser, therefore it has more OXYGEN molecules, with more energy potential.
3. Support. You can support a cheap ripoff company, and be assured that they will live to copy someone else again. or you can support a company that has decided to support us by making parts for us. The more items they sell for a brand, the more likely they are to make MORE PARTS FOR THAT BRAND.
4. Hurry. Don't be in a hurry to mod everything CHEAP AND NOW. Save up your money, buy QUALITY parts, and get them as cheap as possible. You'll feel MUCH better in the long run.
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>
No, that won't "Even it out", you'll just compound a dangerous problem with unknown factors.
No, all intakes aren't the same, it's more than just price.
1. Quality is in what you buy. I've seen cheap 50 dollar intakes with poor welds, vent tubes that are all welded up. Edges that are not finished well can cut your sillicone connectors and get silicone bits into your engine. Not good.
2. Filter position. There are about 3 or 4 different CAI designs out there for us, the cheaper ones are usually the shorter ones and still have you sucking in WARM AIR (like the Injen and it's clones). You want COLDer air from outside the engine bay. The AEM and it's clones and a few others put the filter behind your fog lights, a very nice place to get air that is MUCH cooler than in your engine bay. Remember, colder air is denser, therefore it has more OXYGEN molecules, with more energy potential.
3. Support. You can support a cheap ripoff company, and be assured that they will live to copy someone else again. or you can support a company that has decided to support us by making parts for us. The more items they sell for a brand, the more likely they are to make MORE PARTS FOR THAT BRAND.
4. Hurry. Don't be in a hurry to mod everything CHEAP AND NOW. Save up your money, buy QUALITY parts, and get them as cheap as possible. You'll feel MUCH better in the long run.
#15
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i'll restate, before you buy something, search or post here, we've heard just about everything. and also be glad you only wasted $8 lol.gif
#16
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Good idea my man.
Trust me.
LOL
I'm going to turbo next year, and I'm doing my research and everything now to avoid running into problems.
Read and read, you'd be suprised how much info is out there.
Have you taken out your resonatorsyet?
Trust me.
LOL
I'm going to turbo next year, and I'm doing my research and everything now to avoid running into problems.
Read and read, you'd be suprised how much info is out there.
Have you taken out your resonatorsyet?
#17
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Um resonators in the airbox right? ive heard about ppl doing that but not sure on how to?
MOD EDIT - please dont double post man(posting twice in a row). use the edit button in the lower right hand corner of your post if you have something to add that you forgot to type. -tibby01
did a lil search and found your article on removing those resonators im gunna do it tomorrow after skool so thanx anyways....
MOD EDIT - please dont double post man(posting twice in a row). use the edit button in the lower right hand corner of your post if you have something to add that you forgot to type. -tibby01
did a lil search and found your article on removing those resonators im gunna do it tomorrow after skool so thanx anyways....