High Mileage Engine
11-09-2005 | 09:17 AM
#1
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From: new britain ct
my motor has 102k miles on it. couple towns over from me theres some 2.0 engines ranging from 21k -100k
they have one in the mid 30k range for about $400. that a good deal? the 21k was i think 500. is it worth doing a swap? i know im losing some power with my engine but how much?
they have one in the mid 30k range for about $400. that a good deal? the 21k was i think 500. is it worth doing a swap? i know im losing some power with my engine but how much?
11-09-2005 | 09:25 AM
#2
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From: Denver Co
Vehicle: 1999 Hyundai Tiburon
Thats a project I want to start in the near future. I would really like to get a used engine with low miles and rebuild it they way I want! Crank Balanced, head work done, new pistons, basically get it ready for a mad turbo setup. That way I still have my car to drive, then when I'm ready, just pop her in and go to the races!!! cool.gif AS far as price for the engine, I have no idea! But, I am curious as well!
11-09-2005 | 09:37 AM
#3
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From: SOUTH Jersey
From what I understand, the Beta was designed with a 175,000 mile service life. Of course your miliage may differ due to maintance issues and how you treat the car and drivetrain.
My Tib has almost 116,000 miles on it. It's 2 liter still burns almost no oil, gets 31 to 32 mpg, make no odd noises, and still has more than enough power to spin both wheels a good thirty some feet from a standstill.
I would not call 102,000 high miliage. It is just over half of what the engine is designed to cover. I consider it a "mature" engine.
That said, 400 for a 21k engine seems pretty good. If you are going to rebuild it for more power, the overall miliage does not matter. If you just want an engine to slot into the car and forget about, I would go for the lowest miliage engine you can easily afford.
Definatly do a leakdown test before you drop it into the car though. I have seen Low miliage engines that were very near death due to abuse.
My Tib has almost 116,000 miles on it. It's 2 liter still burns almost no oil, gets 31 to 32 mpg, make no odd noises, and still has more than enough power to spin both wheels a good thirty some feet from a standstill.
I would not call 102,000 high miliage. It is just over half of what the engine is designed to cover. I consider it a "mature" engine.
That said, 400 for a 21k engine seems pretty good. If you are going to rebuild it for more power, the overall miliage does not matter. If you just want an engine to slot into the car and forget about, I would go for the lowest miliage engine you can easily afford.
Definatly do a leakdown test before you drop it into the car though. I have seen Low miliage engines that were very near death due to abuse.
11-09-2005 | 09:51 AM
#4
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From: Arizona
Vehicle: N/A as in Not Applicable, not Naturally Aspirated
MAd AMchine, can you please tell me what I need to do a leak-down test on my engine. I don't want to pay Hyundai Dealer to do it, but I don't know where else to get the tools needed. =(
And MB,
If you are going to re-build an engine for boost and new internals get the spare, low-mileage,m engine for a BACKUP.
THEN, Re-build the motor already in the car (102K miles). That way if you screw up the 102K miles engine you have a fresh one to start with and at least drive on.
Why rebuild and brand new engine and keep an OLD when you re-build a old engine and keep a NEW!
wink1.gif
-patrick
And MB,
If you are going to re-build an engine for boost and new internals get the spare, low-mileage,m engine for a BACKUP.
THEN, Re-build the motor already in the car (102K miles). That way if you screw up the 102K miles engine you have a fresh one to start with and at least drive on.
Why rebuild and brand new engine and keep an OLD when you re-build a old engine and keep a NEW!
wink1.gif
-patrick
11-09-2005 | 11:46 AM
#6
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
Ye, just because its low mileage doesn't mean its necessarily in better shape. I could buy a brand new car from the factory and blow the engine from abuse easy enough within ten thousand miles.
Check the compression on the engine on buying, and while your at it, check it on the one you have. You may not be losin as much power as you think.
Check the compression on the engine on buying, and while your at it, check it on the one you have. You may not be losin as much power as you think.
11-09-2005 | 02:09 PM
#7
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yah those prices seem ok.. but i was going to buy a full motor with 11k on it, from dweet for 215.00 but didnt have a place to store it..
yah def. do a compression test on ur car, and a new motor that you might be buying to see if compression is still good..
i have known DSMs and stuff to have really low compression around 65k or even blow a head gasket, although mine at roughly 65k has great compression.. 210-209-210-208.. maybe a lil bit higher, i didnt crank anymore after it hit those numbers.. they seemed high to me.. but thats close to stock compression i guess..
when i have some $$, imma swap in a low mileage NA motor, and finish building/rebuilding my turbo setup..
if ur not getting any odd smells, noises, burning any oil, i woudlnt worry about it.. run a compression test, look around ur block for leaking oil, and do some other tests, and u should be good..
if u have extra $$ tho, buy a motor that has good compression and looks as far as you can tell to be a good motor, swap it and build the 'mature' motor to be a monster..
yah def. do a compression test on ur car, and a new motor that you might be buying to see if compression is still good..
i have known DSMs and stuff to have really low compression around 65k or even blow a head gasket, although mine at roughly 65k has great compression.. 210-209-210-208.. maybe a lil bit higher, i didnt crank anymore after it hit those numbers.. they seemed high to me.. but thats close to stock compression i guess..
when i have some $$, imma swap in a low mileage NA motor, and finish building/rebuilding my turbo setup..
if ur not getting any odd smells, noises, burning any oil, i woudlnt worry about it.. run a compression test, look around ur block for leaking oil, and do some other tests, and u should be good..
if u have extra $$ tho, buy a motor that has good compression and looks as far as you can tell to be a good motor, swap it and build the 'mature' motor to be a monster..
11-09-2005 | 02:11 PM
#8
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From: SOUTH Jersey
A leak down test is akin to a compression test. Just that it is very hard to do a compression test on an engine that is not running or in a car.
What you do is make sure it is at top dead centre for the cylinder you are working on. LOCK the engine in position and use a screw in adaptor into the sparkplug hole to run a compressor to it. This will allow you to listen for any air leaks.
Air escaping out the intake.. you have a bad intake valve. Out the exhaust? Could be a burnt valve. Into the cooling hoses? Check your headgasket. Out the oilfill? Could be headgasket or rings.
With a gage hooked to the line supplying air to the cylinder, you can see how slowly she "leaks down" to zero.
do the same for all four cylinders.
What you do is make sure it is at top dead centre for the cylinder you are working on. LOCK the engine in position and use a screw in adaptor into the sparkplug hole to run a compressor to it. This will allow you to listen for any air leaks.
Air escaping out the intake.. you have a bad intake valve. Out the exhaust? Could be a burnt valve. Into the cooling hoses? Check your headgasket. Out the oilfill? Could be headgasket or rings.
With a gage hooked to the line supplying air to the cylinder, you can see how slowly she "leaks down" to zero.
do the same for all four cylinders.
11-09-2005 | 03:43 PM
#9
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From: Arizona
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^^I NEED to do this so bad. It will answer SOOO many of my questions. But I think my best bet would be to take it to a Dealer, since I have never done either a Leak-Down or a Compression and don't where to acquire the tools, gauges, compressor.
Thanks for the knowledge MAd! fing02.gif
Thanks for the knowledge MAd! fing02.gif
11-10-2005 | 10:29 AM
#10
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Mad's right, it's still too early to be thinking about getting another motor. It's still got some life in it! Once it hits around 150K, then I'd start thinking about this or unless the engine screws up before then.