faithofadragon

dam you got that many miles on the stocker?

mine went out at about 11k
second one went out at 23k
third one at about 35k

then i replaced it with a walmart battery and its still in there

100k later

zoned019

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (rallyman @ Apr 20 2005, 03:36 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'>When you try to start the car and all you get is clicking the battery does not have enough power to turn over the engine. That could even happen if you try to boost the car and the connection is not good.
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>
that is what's happening, thing is the battery has enough juice to brightly display any lights, electronics, speakers, etc. just when i try to crank it everything dies like instantly and it goes pitch black 02.gif

but what about how the speakers went out and then back on when the lights shut off/back on? that was when the car was running so it suggests alternator.


lol. damn.
didn't realize batteries go that often i guess.

UltraTibby

Well they usually dont unless your alt is not charging them correctly.

rallyman

My original battery lasted about 130,000 kms (about 81,000 miles). It's too bad you don't have anywhere close by that can test your battery and alternator for free. That would either pinpoint the problem or rule them out. Since you had the alternator out recently to be rebuilt maybe there is a bad connection to it or a damaged wire. I would check there, as well.

supercow

prob. a battery, do any of those places test batteries? if you get it running and then everythings good it's not the alt. if you just running on the alternator though sometimes under higher loads things like lights can dim.

anyways reading what you've posted it's aboit 90% battery, 10% alt. go get an optima and thats what i did when my battery went out at about.... 60-65k...

edit: oh yah, it's possible that when the alt was rebuilt there was a prob. but with the age of the battery that should be a pretty good hint. i think the normal life of a battery is like 3 years????

col96fx

If you're still having problems, get the thing started (jump it) then drive it to the place that rebuilt your alt and get them to look at it. Their workshop should have the equipment to check it out.
When you cleaned the terminals, did you do like I said and take them off and clean them with sandpaper on the post and inside the connector. There could be a layer of corrosion there even if you don't notice it.

Mad-Machine

Definatly clean all your terminals. Also, DO NOT diconnect the battery when the car is running. Great way to fry your alternator. Without the "resevour" of power the battery holds, the alt will go to full power and quickly overheat windings and die.

You also have to remember. Starting a car takes a LOT of power. More than your sound system can use. There is a reason car batteries produce so many "cold cranking amps" for a short period of time. The starter needs to overcome the compression of the engine, the friction of the engine, sping the engine fast enough to start, AND power up the fuel and ignition systems all at the same time.

DTN

Battery.... quick check....

when was the last time you replaced your battery?

Do you have a louder sterio then stock? if so, Do you have a capacitor to keep your amp from frying your battery?

What is the voltage level on your battery with car off? just take a multimeter to that fux0r.... >11.5?



If you run a sterio, you'll fry the battery alot without a capacitor. When that bass hits, it cannot pull more then 90A from the stock generator (same 90A also used to run car) and it has to get that power from somewhere. It will pull it from your battery... Well, your battery has only so many charge and discharge cycles available in it, then it's toast.

I had 35,000 miles on stock battery, then i put a sterio in, killed it within a few weeks.

Also, if you let your battery go TOO far, it might start corroding really badly creating shorts and opens. When the battery shorts, it seems like the alternator is dying because the dang thing is sending the power right back to the alternator.

your car is shutting off because you're trying to pull the cranking amps out of the battery to run the starter. A starter is NO JOKE on power.

Casper

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (DrivingTibNaked @ Apr 20 2005, 10:53 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'>What is the voltage level on your battery with car off? just take a multimeter to that fux0r.... >11.5?
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>

Its best to test the battery under load. It can seem okay while there is no load, but drop significantly while under load.
With the car off and lights on would be a good test.

zoned019

just put in a different battery..
everything seemed fine, yet as soon as the key got in that ON position, everything goes pitch black again. if i try to start there's no click, just nothing.
sooo i thought maybe that battery wasn't charged, we tried to jump it---same thing, as soon as key goes into the ON position everything dies. so we leave my friends car running and hook the batteries in parallel as if we were going to jump it, and left his running for 20 minutes connected to mine shut off. came back and SAME thing, as soon as key gets to ON everything dies.
i am SOO mad someone plzzz help me.

it almost seems like there's a direct short somewhere .. could it be coinsidence that this happened when my lower dash is all disconnected on a day when it was raining (implying that some water could have somehow gotten on a wire that is in the lower crash panel, that's what was removed because i was trying to fix my alarm...idk)