HELP! 01 Tiburon won't start, still turns over
10-01-2012, 08:56 AM
#51
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Yeah, totally dead, 0psi on cylinder 3. I'm just hoping it didn't damage the pistons so that I can just swap the head and move on. What should I look for on the pistons to make sure they're good? Just want to make sure the bottom half of the engine is still good before I button everything up with the new head. I can post pictures when I get to it tonight hopefully.
I'm going to get a new valve cover gasket just because it was leaking a bit before. So that with a new IM gasket, thermostat gasket, head gasket, and should I get a new head bolt set? Or are these stock ones reusable?
I'm totally confused on the tightening procudeure for the head bolts. How do you do this:
"M10: 30 Nm (300 kg.cm, 22 lb.ft) + (60°-65°) + (60°-65°)
M12: 35 Nm (350 kg.cm, 26 lb.ft) + (60°-65°) + (60°-65°)
When tightening the cylinder head bolt, using special tool and torque wrench, tighten the bolt to the specified torque (M10: 30 Nm, M12: 35Nm) and then turn the torque wrench 60°-65° and repeat it one more time as shown in illustration."
I'm going to get a new valve cover gasket just because it was leaking a bit before. So that with a new IM gasket, thermostat gasket, head gasket, and should I get a new head bolt set? Or are these stock ones reusable?
I'm totally confused on the tightening procudeure for the head bolts. How do you do this:
"M10: 30 Nm (300 kg.cm, 22 lb.ft) + (60°-65°) + (60°-65°)
M12: 35 Nm (350 kg.cm, 26 lb.ft) + (60°-65°) + (60°-65°)
When tightening the cylinder head bolt, using special tool and torque wrench, tighten the bolt to the specified torque (M10: 30 Nm, M12: 35Nm) and then turn the torque wrench 60°-65° and repeat it one more time as shown in illustration."
10-01-2012, 12:45 PM
#52
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before you take anything else apart try to find a boroscope to borrow, if the pistons are damaged there is no point in take the rest of it apart even a nick in the piston can cause a hot spot and crack the piston as soon as you get it running, iirc autozone rents em
there has been lots of debate over the head bolts, some say they are stretch some say they arent, I personally rather not risk lifting a head cuz i got cheap over bolts, but in theory ill put more strain on them than you will(turbo, if i ever get it running right)
i wanna say youll be fine to reuse em
GET A GOOD TORQUE WRENCH not a 12 dollar harbor freight one either, at the very least borrow a name brand one from someone
i was given a "husky" brand one with a lifetime warranty back in the day and used that one, it isnt the 500 snap on one, but it seems to read decent
it goes without question, change the oil after you are done with the job if you get lucky and the pistons arent dead
there has been lots of debate over the head bolts, some say they are stretch some say they arent, I personally rather not risk lifting a head cuz i got cheap over bolts, but in theory ill put more strain on them than you will(turbo, if i ever get it running right)
i wanna say youll be fine to reuse em
GET A GOOD TORQUE WRENCH not a 12 dollar harbor freight one either, at the very least borrow a name brand one from someone
i was given a "husky" brand one with a lifetime warranty back in the day and used that one, it isnt the 500 snap on one, but it seems to read decent
it goes without question, change the oil after you are done with the job if you get lucky and the pistons arent dead
10-01-2012, 04:22 PM
#53
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Yeah, I plan to change the oil afterwards, and new coolant obviously. I already borrowed a craftsman torque wrench from someone, so I'm good there. I also just picked up the head bolt hex-socket set for tonight. I ordered a whole set of gaskets too. The head gasket, IM gasket, and Exhaust gasket just go straight on right (no red high temp sealant or anything)? I think the valve cover gasket is the only one that will need the sealant used with it?
I figure if it looks like there's any blemish on the pistons, then I'll just swap in the other motor. I bought a whole motor since I couldn't find just the cylinder head. But it's an 01 with 90k (50k less than mine) miles for $500. I go pick it up tomorrow. That was much better than any motor I could find on ebay so that helps. I'll pull the head off it and swap it with my broken one. Then as long as everything works good after that, I'll just sell the rest of this engine on craigslist or here on the forum.
One question, if the engine I just bought was an auto transmission, will there be any compatability issues with my manual car? Or are they the exact same (besides the transmission of course)? I forgot to ask what it was...
I figure if it looks like there's any blemish on the pistons, then I'll just swap in the other motor. I bought a whole motor since I couldn't find just the cylinder head. But it's an 01 with 90k (50k less than mine) miles for $500. I go pick it up tomorrow. That was much better than any motor I could find on ebay so that helps. I'll pull the head off it and swap it with my broken one. Then as long as everything works good after that, I'll just sell the rest of this engine on craigslist or here on the forum.
One question, if the engine I just bought was an auto transmission, will there be any compatability issues with my manual car? Or are they the exact same (besides the transmission of course)? I forgot to ask what it was...
10-01-2012, 04:34 PM
#54
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engine wise its exactly the same as the one you already have, naturally youll need to swap over the parts that make it a manual transmission like the flywheel and clutch
to be honest if you already have the motor id just swap the entire thing over, its way less headache than it looks and if you open up the used motor a lot of the times a junkyard will void any warranty they gave you
i swapped motors in my wagon over the course of 3 days working on it after work (roughly 5 hours a day)
youll def need some way to hold the engine up obviously but its pretty damn simple on our cars to swap motors, heck i could probably give you a step by step on how to do it, with bolt sizes(ive done TONS of engines and transmissions)
plus with the engine out of the car its WAY WAY WAY easier to do a timing belt, you could get the new engine pretty damn up to par with it out of the car
i got the wagon for 200, put a few hundy in maintenance items (timing belt, water pump, plugs wires fluid etc), swapped in a beta 2 i got from a friends yard for "a great deal" and had a very reliable car that i drove for a year and put 30k miles without a hiccup for a rough total between 600-1000 bux
i sold it for 1600 when i moved, the girl that bought it from me has put 80k miles on it since then and the only issue shes had was a leaking axle seal cars still on the road, my old boss sees it all the time
it takes A LOT to kill our motors heck if you never did anything but oil changes and timing belts when needed i bet you can easily get a couple hundred k miles out of a beta
to be honest if you already have the motor id just swap the entire thing over, its way less headache than it looks and if you open up the used motor a lot of the times a junkyard will void any warranty they gave you
i swapped motors in my wagon over the course of 3 days working on it after work (roughly 5 hours a day)
youll def need some way to hold the engine up obviously but its pretty damn simple on our cars to swap motors, heck i could probably give you a step by step on how to do it, with bolt sizes(ive done TONS of engines and transmissions)
plus with the engine out of the car its WAY WAY WAY easier to do a timing belt, you could get the new engine pretty damn up to par with it out of the car
i got the wagon for 200, put a few hundy in maintenance items (timing belt, water pump, plugs wires fluid etc), swapped in a beta 2 i got from a friends yard for "a great deal" and had a very reliable car that i drove for a year and put 30k miles without a hiccup for a rough total between 600-1000 bux
i sold it for 1600 when i moved, the girl that bought it from me has put 80k miles on it since then and the only issue shes had was a leaking axle seal cars still on the road, my old boss sees it all the time
it takes A LOT to kill our motors heck if you never did anything but oil changes and timing belts when needed i bet you can easily get a couple hundred k miles out of a beta
10-01-2012, 08:51 PM
#55
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There is NO DEBATE on the head bolts. Hyundai says they may be reused without limitation.
There will be an obvious mark on the piston if damaging contact was made. If you get the head off and there isn't so much as a ding in the carbon fouling on the crown, you're good. A small nick I would be very strongly tempted to polish smooth. A big dig on the piston and I would not be too happy with it.
The flexplate bolts are different to the flywheel bolts, otherwise the engines are the same, auto vs. manual. An impact gun will be necessary to remove any of the flexplate/flywheel bolts. Ironically it may be the HEAD where you run into compatibility problems. If you ended up with a head set up for CVVT or whatever they called it, you might not be in as good a shape as you thought. Look at the right side of the head on your car. There is a protrusion poking out on the front/right corner with nothing in it. In the next couple years there would be a bulky solenoid to move the camshaft in that spot.
You want this head:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2257&ppt=C0332
Not this one:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2257&ppt=C0332
Changing an engine is much more work than changing a head, but not TOO bad on this platform. Sometimes it is necessary but skip it when you can eh.
There will be an obvious mark on the piston if damaging contact was made. If you get the head off and there isn't so much as a ding in the carbon fouling on the crown, you're good. A small nick I would be very strongly tempted to polish smooth. A big dig on the piston and I would not be too happy with it.
The flexplate bolts are different to the flywheel bolts, otherwise the engines are the same, auto vs. manual. An impact gun will be necessary to remove any of the flexplate/flywheel bolts. Ironically it may be the HEAD where you run into compatibility problems. If you ended up with a head set up for CVVT or whatever they called it, you might not be in as good a shape as you thought. Look at the right side of the head on your car. There is a protrusion poking out on the front/right corner with nothing in it. In the next couple years there would be a bulky solenoid to move the camshaft in that spot.
You want this head:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2257&ppt=C0332
Not this one:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2257&ppt=C0332
Changing an engine is much more work than changing a head, but not TOO bad on this platform. Sometimes it is necessary but skip it when you can eh.
10-02-2012, 12:45 AM
#56
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Alright guys, got the head off tonight! Wasn't too bad at all. I got the intake runners cleaned up (lots of oil in them). Just sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner in there then dried it all up. Did I hurt the fuel injectors by blasting them with carb cleaner? Hope not.
The pistons look pretty good. The two big valves in cylinder #3 were stuck open (even when I turned the camshaft pulley, they never budged like all the others (thats why there was 0 compression!). Piston #3 does have 2 small nicks where the valves were stuck open. All the others look good. I guess the valves just had a slight seal leak on cylinder #2 and #4 (that had lower compression).
Now, should I take a wire brush or something to the piston tops to clean them up and get all the carbon buildup off? Just by feeling it, I'm confident it's just indentations into the carbon buildup on piston #3. Same with the head to prep for the head gasket, should I use sand paper or something to level it all out? I did wipe down each cylinder/piston with a WD40 wrag just to keep them lubricated and prevent rust until I get the new engine tomorrow.
Pictures go in order...piston #1-#4, then valves #1-#4. Let me know what you guys think! Thanks a million!
The pistons look pretty good. The two big valves in cylinder #3 were stuck open (even when I turned the camshaft pulley, they never budged like all the others (thats why there was 0 compression!). Piston #3 does have 2 small nicks where the valves were stuck open. All the others look good. I guess the valves just had a slight seal leak on cylinder #2 and #4 (that had lower compression).
Now, should I take a wire brush or something to the piston tops to clean them up and get all the carbon buildup off? Just by feeling it, I'm confident it's just indentations into the carbon buildup on piston #3. Same with the head to prep for the head gasket, should I use sand paper or something to level it all out? I did wipe down each cylinder/piston with a WD40 wrag just to keep them lubricated and prevent rust until I get the new engine tomorrow.
Pictures go in order...piston #1-#4, then valves #1-#4. Let me know what you guys think! Thanks a million!
10-02-2012, 02:37 AM
#57
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Great job man half way their keep it up!
That's what I call keeping the Hyundai alive!
Your injectors should be fine carb cleaner dries quick. For that piston just clean it up and check it, mark doesn't look bad could just be the build up it marked...
That's what I call keeping the Hyundai alive!
Your injectors should be fine carb cleaner dries quick. For that piston just clean it up and check it, mark doesn't look bad could just be the build up it marked...
10-02-2012, 08:40 AM
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Thanks guys. It's actually been kind of fun! Yeah, #3 and #1 were the only pistons with nicks on the pistons...but it looks just to have nicked throught he carbon buildup, not the actual metal. So what's the proper way to clean up these piston tops? I want to make sure I don't damage anything. I'm also worried about getting a bunch of debri in the coolant/oil passages along the head. Maybe I can tape over those for now.
Not sure if it's cool to just go to town with a wire brush on the head surface and piston tops. Thanks guys!
Not sure if it's cool to just go to town with a wire brush on the head surface and piston tops. Thanks guys!