2FastElantra

You can do a compression test and if you have compression you can rule out bent valves if you don't it still doesn't mean there bent. Since you ordered the timing belt just put it on its less work then removing the head or swapping an engine. If it starts your good and you know how to do a timing belt.



Btw you never stated the miles on the engine.

onecrazyfoo4u

Cool, I'll do a compression test after I swap the belt then. Hopefully the car will fire up. The car has 140k miles and I have no idea if its been changed or not. It looks like the timing covers have been taken off before though. Doing the timing belt was the next maintenance thing on my list....just got bit a week too soon!

2FastElantra

if it starts you have compression no need to do it after. you should do it before you do the timing belt. if it has no compression you can tell by the way it sounds no compression sounds like a high pitch spinning/whining noise. youtube it. either way just get that timing belt on and see if it runs its your cheapest solution right now.

Stocker

^ if you install the new belt and it runs decent, you are golden. A compression test before you start it up with a new belt is pointless IMO. You're going to be cranking it for the compression test, why not crank it and see if it will start first? If it starts and runs strong, you might be in great shape and you should probably put an extra fiver in the plate at church for gratitude. If it starts and runs not-great a compression test could tell you which cylinders to look at.



OTECTom & others: don't be so pessimistic. I've been inside a Hyundai Beta that had stopped on the freeway due to a broken timing belt and there were only four slightly-bent valves, no damage to any of the pistons, no damage to the combustion chambers, no damage to the cylinder walls.



Pulling the head: a moderate amount of work. Drain coolant from petcock in bottom of radator, remove spark plug cover, spark plugs, valve cover, timing cover, timing belt. Remove intake and exhaust manifolds. Slightly special tools (allen keys with socket drive vs. handles) required for removal of the head. Torque wrench required for reassembly, plus some special angle-setting of the bolts. It's not TOO bad, and most of the work to get the cylinder head off is also required to remove the engine. If you got the head off to inspect and found the insides of the cylinders destroyed and a valve head stuck in a combustion chamber roof, just finish removing the engine and get a replacement.



Edit: I found my P&P thread and holy cow four years is long enough. Time to get that thing finished already. Anyway, this is the head in question. Not enough compression on 2 cylinders to start the engine.

OTECTom

Engine is dead, you're wasting time/effort/money with the timing belt. If you don't know what the head is, then good luck getting the job done correctly.







Please let me know if you happen to be the luckiest SOB ever and the motor isn't trashed.

onecrazyfoo4u

Okay, I'll skip the compression test and just see what I get tomorrow or Wednesday after replacing the belt/pulleys. Seems like it would almost be easier to remove the entire engine, then try digging down to the valves (if the engine won't start after the new belt). Basically just remove the 4 motor mounts, air intake, all coolant hoses and electrical lines. If I have to go down that road, is it just a 2000-2001 Tiburon engine that will be a direct replacement? I'm not too hopefull because when I tried popping the clutch to start it while being towed, it made a nasty high pitch whinning sound. Maybe that was just he clutch/flywheel spinning?



One thing I can't find anywhere is what are the cylinder numbers? Is the furthest passenger cylinder #1, then counting 2, 3, 4 towards the drivers side?

Stocker

The whining could have been the crank pulley grinding the teeth off the belt. Yes, removing the engine is fairly straightforward, but beware that there is only ONE mount on the engine and three on the transaxle. Just take care you don't crush anyone or drop an oil pan on the driveway.



Looking into the engine bay standing in front of the car, the front of the engine is to your left ( ! ) and the cylinders are 1-2-3-4 as you count normally left to right.

onecrazyfoo4u

Sweet, thanks! I finally got the damn crank pulley off after 2 hours of trying EVERYTHING. Now the only holdup is the water pump pulley with 4 bolts on it. There's like 1/2" of space between the frame and those bolts. How the hell do you get to them? I can barely fit a wrench over them, but the pulley just spins when I try to turn the wrench. How do you stabilize the pulley to get the 4 bolts off? Does undoing the motor mount and jacking up the engine help out with that?



I'm going to be pissed if I go through all of this and the engine doesn't run! But that's how things go. Might as well try the $60 fix first.

2FastElantra

To remove the water pump pull the best thing to use is a chain wrench to hold the pulley and 10 wrench on the bolts.



Yes when ever removing a mount place a Jack under the motor but use a 2x4 to spread the weight.

onecrazyfoo4u

Now that's a genious idea! I actually have something very similar, but it's a rubber belt (for removing oil filters). I'll give that a shot tonight, after removing the motor mount and jacking up the engine.