Hard Start & High Rev
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hard Start & High Rev
Lately I've been experiencing problems starting. Its becoming a lil' frustrating now.
At first I thought it was the fuel pump going in but the fuel is reaching the rail.
It is firing like hell so thats not the issue either. I sometimes find myself swinging
the engine for long periods until I hear it starting to kick over & at the same time
helping it by pressing the accelerator.
Then when it does kick over it revs high at about 2000 rpm. it sometimes even goes higher.
This will continue for some time even when driving around town, then it will throttle normal
eventually. I changed the coolant temperature sensor yesterday and it still does the same thing.
I also cleaned the IAC valve to see if it will help but same result.
When it reaches a stage that swinging the engine doesn't start it, I find out that unplugging one
of my injectors (the #1 injector i.e.) it will kick over immediately but of course in a missing
way until i plug back in the injector. That gets it to start but my biggest concern if what could
be the real ISSUE here? I've Scanned it and here are the codes:
1) P1586: Idle Air Control Valve -
(well like I said I cleaned it but will this be the real issue that I need to completely change it?)
2) P0112: Intake Air Temperature Sensor -
(This sensor had been unplugged and not in use from the day the tiburon was turbo charged. so this isn't the real problem)
3) P0136: O2 Sensor: Bank 1 Sensor 2 -
(Again, I've had this code popped up for some time the the car was still operating fine)
4) P0141: HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor -
(I'm wondering if this could be it...but I'll appreciate if someone could explain a little more about this code)
5) P0117: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor -
(Changed Sensor July 12, 2012 and no result except of course the code did disappear thereafter)
So guys, any suggestions and recommendations will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
aborland
(Belize C.A.)
At first I thought it was the fuel pump going in but the fuel is reaching the rail.
It is firing like hell so thats not the issue either. I sometimes find myself swinging
the engine for long periods until I hear it starting to kick over & at the same time
helping it by pressing the accelerator.
Then when it does kick over it revs high at about 2000 rpm. it sometimes even goes higher.
This will continue for some time even when driving around town, then it will throttle normal
eventually. I changed the coolant temperature sensor yesterday and it still does the same thing.
I also cleaned the IAC valve to see if it will help but same result.
When it reaches a stage that swinging the engine doesn't start it, I find out that unplugging one
of my injectors (the #1 injector i.e.) it will kick over immediately but of course in a missing
way until i plug back in the injector. That gets it to start but my biggest concern if what could
be the real ISSUE here? I've Scanned it and here are the codes:
1) P1586: Idle Air Control Valve -
(well like I said I cleaned it but will this be the real issue that I need to completely change it?)
2) P0112: Intake Air Temperature Sensor -
(This sensor had been unplugged and not in use from the day the tiburon was turbo charged. so this isn't the real problem)
3) P0136: O2 Sensor: Bank 1 Sensor 2 -
(Again, I've had this code popped up for some time the the car was still operating fine)
4) P0141: HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor -
(I'm wondering if this could be it...but I'll appreciate if someone could explain a little more about this code)
5) P0117: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor -
(Changed Sensor July 12, 2012 and no result except of course the code did disappear thereafter)
So guys, any suggestions and recommendations will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
aborland
(Belize C.A.)
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Here are the Specs of my 2001 Hyundai Tiburon.
SPECS:
- 66k Miles
- 5 Speed Manual Transmission
- Precision T3/T4 Turbocharger - Set @ 7psi (but was initially Tuned for 12psi)
- Turbonetics Evolution Waste-Gate
- Ram Style Equal Length Turbo Manifold w/ Heat Wrap
- 2.5" Lightweight Aluminum Charge Pipes
- Front Mounted Intercooler (Huge)
-Custom 2.5" exhaust w. Magnaflow highflow cat and OBX straight through muffler
- Greddy Blow-Off Valve
- Dual Fuel Rail w/ 4 Extra Injectors Controlled by an SMT-6.
- OBX Under Drive Pulley
- Stage 3 Clutch
- Chromoly Lightweight Flywheel
- A/C
- Mobil 1 Oil (Always)
- 10mm PRD Spark Plug Wires
- Spark Plugs (new)
- 700CCA Battery (new)
- Clear Corners
- Chrome Altezza Sonar Tail Lights
- Motegi FF7 16" Lightweight Rims
- Toyo Proxes Tires (new)
- Vented Carbon Fiber Hood (Extremely Light)
- Slotted & Drilled Rotors
- Hawk High Performance Brake Pads
- AEM Wideband Fuel/Air Ratio Gauge
- B&M Boost/Vacuum Gauge
- Custom Racing Steering Wheel
- Oil Pressure Gauge
- Apexi Turbo Timer
- Pioneer CD Player
SPECS:
- 66k Miles
- 5 Speed Manual Transmission
- Precision T3/T4 Turbocharger - Set @ 7psi (but was initially Tuned for 12psi)
- Turbonetics Evolution Waste-Gate
- Ram Style Equal Length Turbo Manifold w/ Heat Wrap
- 2.5" Lightweight Aluminum Charge Pipes
- Front Mounted Intercooler (Huge)
-Custom 2.5" exhaust w. Magnaflow highflow cat and OBX straight through muffler
- Greddy Blow-Off Valve
- Dual Fuel Rail w/ 4 Extra Injectors Controlled by an SMT-6.
- OBX Under Drive Pulley
- Stage 3 Clutch
- Chromoly Lightweight Flywheel
- A/C
- Mobil 1 Oil (Always)
- 10mm PRD Spark Plug Wires
- Spark Plugs (new)
- 700CCA Battery (new)
- Clear Corners
- Chrome Altezza Sonar Tail Lights
- Motegi FF7 16" Lightweight Rims
- Toyo Proxes Tires (new)
- Vented Carbon Fiber Hood (Extremely Light)
- Slotted & Drilled Rotors
- Hawk High Performance Brake Pads
- AEM Wideband Fuel/Air Ratio Gauge
- B&M Boost/Vacuum Gauge
- Custom Racing Steering Wheel
- Oil Pressure Gauge
- Apexi Turbo Timer
- Pioneer CD Player
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: tacos
Posts: 9,533
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Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
one thing that caught my eye is this:
without the actual ability to look at your car, id assume it was possibly flooding during start-up some how, maybe the fact that it was tuned for more air means the ecu is dumping more gas
your 2 codes here are both for oxygen sensors the one precat does a great amount of reading to adjust for how much fuel goes into a vehicle.
Id start with replacing the upstream o2 sensor and seeing if that helps out. i vaguely remember when i drove with no o2s connected once a long long time ago,i had a hard idle and start.
does the vehicle run fine during normal cruising or are you getting some studdering once and a while?
- Precision T3/T4 Turbocharger - Set @ 7psi (but was initially Tuned for 12psi)
without the actual ability to look at your car, id assume it was possibly flooding during start-up some how, maybe the fact that it was tuned for more air means the ecu is dumping more gas
3) P0136: O2 Sensor: Bank 1 Sensor 2 -
4) P0141: HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor -
4) P0141: HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor -
your 2 codes here are both for oxygen sensors the one precat does a great amount of reading to adjust for how much fuel goes into a vehicle.
Id start with replacing the upstream o2 sensor and seeing if that helps out. i vaguely remember when i drove with no o2s connected once a long long time ago,i had a hard idle and start.
does the vehicle run fine during normal cruising or are you getting some studdering once and a while?
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I've actually been running most of the time at even 5 PSI and I had no issues before.
And i know i been getting the O2 sensor code b4 that too wasn't affecting me.
It actually runs fine with mo staggering or missing whatsoever.
I do smell gas when i'm turning the engine at times and its not turning over, so i know thats when
it floods.... but y it doesn't crank at the first spin is my concern.
I'll try and replace that Oxygen sensor this weekend and see how that works.
Thanks for your input.
And i know i been getting the O2 sensor code b4 that too wasn't affecting me.
It actually runs fine with mo staggering or missing whatsoever.
I do smell gas when i'm turning the engine at times and its not turning over, so i know thats when
it floods.... but y it doesn't crank at the first spin is my concern.
I'll try and replace that Oxygen sensor this weekend and see how that works.
Thanks for your input.
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: tacos
Posts: 9,533
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Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
no prob mang, hopefully its just a simple fix like that
another thing i would check for is possibly a vacuum leak somewhere, those do all kinds of weird things to engines
have you been getting both o2 codes? the first one for the bank 2 code isnt all that important, its mainly for emissions purposes
the H02 code is the one that's causing me to think its your issue
it could be over-fueling during first crank which is causing it to not turn over as easy
pull your plugs out and check em while your at it, make sure the gap is proper and clean em up/replace them if needed, i know you said they were new, but if its flooding it might have contaminated them some
another thing i would check for is possibly a vacuum leak somewhere, those do all kinds of weird things to engines
have you been getting both o2 codes? the first one for the bank 2 code isnt all that important, its mainly for emissions purposes
the H02 code is the one that's causing me to think its your issue
it could be over-fueling during first crank which is causing it to not turn over as easy
pull your plugs out and check em while your at it, make sure the gap is proper and clean em up/replace them if needed, i know you said they were new, but if its flooding it might have contaminated them some
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I did all that stuff 2 days ago and that how i knew it was flooding. The plugs were all wet with fuel.
Thats why I wanna know why its doing that even at my first attempt to start. I would want to believe that
I've had both O2 codes before but I'm don't quite recall. I'll deal with it though and see what would be the end result.
Thats why I wanna know why its doing that even at my first attempt to start. I would want to believe that
I've had both O2 codes before but I'm don't quite recall. I'll deal with it though and see what would be the end result.
#10
Super Moderator
If it won't light the gas at first start, either there is too much gas or not enough spark. I won't say injectors and controllers don't fail but ignition stuff seems more likely. How do the plugs and wires look/when were they replaced? Sometimes a plug wire that is marginal might look ok but if there's too many miles it might have a pinhole somewhere (or something)