Engine Bog/dying
11-30-2007, 03:38 AM
#12
Moderator
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (zoned019 @ Nov 28 2007, 08:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Java, you can't disconnect the IAC with the car running, and have the car stay running^^
I think I may have solved the problem...nothing to do with the IAC.
Remember how I said the wires on my TPS harness were stripped and corroding (that's why I resoldered all the wires)? I checked out my MAF sensor, where they bend to match up with the OEM wire loom there's a little kink, and I can see metal sticking through on 3 out of the 4 wires. One in particular is really bad.
With the engine running, if I move the wire harness around and shake my MAF sensor, I can hear the idle surge.
Whiplash, you might want to check out the wiring on the TPS and the MAF. Follow it at least 1-2 feet back from the sensor.
I think that's my problem....I'd like to try out the IAC thing too though.
Can I SeaFoam it without lubing it? Is lubing it necessary?</div>
You're supposed to set your idle with the IAC disconnected and obd-ii readouts reading about 850rpm. This is because the IAC has a spring and sits 1/4 open all the time. It can open or close depending on what the computer says. It does this so that it can fuel cut and reduce air while decelerating, or it can also increase RPMs while you're driving to match the gear shifts.
If your TPS wiring is frayed, you should check that first and perform a repair on the wiring.
Your MAF sensor is probly reading the wrong values. There's something wrong there.
You can seafoam without relubing it. It's a part that moves slightly and constantly to maintain idle, it would seem that lubrication would be a good thing for it. Silicone lube will not conduct electricity and does not collect dust once dry. It would make it easier to move and prevent wear. Lubrication in general takes up a small space along the walls of the IAC which makes it more difficult to get small pieces of debris in there.
Like I said before, there is no repair manual for the IAC which I've ever seen. Really, if you doubt your IAC, you should get a new one. This is just to extend the life.
I think I may have solved the problem...nothing to do with the IAC.
Remember how I said the wires on my TPS harness were stripped and corroding (that's why I resoldered all the wires)? I checked out my MAF sensor, where they bend to match up with the OEM wire loom there's a little kink, and I can see metal sticking through on 3 out of the 4 wires. One in particular is really bad.
With the engine running, if I move the wire harness around and shake my MAF sensor, I can hear the idle surge.
Whiplash, you might want to check out the wiring on the TPS and the MAF. Follow it at least 1-2 feet back from the sensor.
I think that's my problem....I'd like to try out the IAC thing too though.
Can I SeaFoam it without lubing it? Is lubing it necessary?</div>
You're supposed to set your idle with the IAC disconnected and obd-ii readouts reading about 850rpm. This is because the IAC has a spring and sits 1/4 open all the time. It can open or close depending on what the computer says. It does this so that it can fuel cut and reduce air while decelerating, or it can also increase RPMs while you're driving to match the gear shifts.
If your TPS wiring is frayed, you should check that first and perform a repair on the wiring.
Your MAF sensor is probly reading the wrong values. There's something wrong there.
You can seafoam without relubing it. It's a part that moves slightly and constantly to maintain idle, it would seem that lubrication would be a good thing for it. Silicone lube will not conduct electricity and does not collect dust once dry. It would make it easier to move and prevent wear. Lubrication in general takes up a small space along the walls of the IAC which makes it more difficult to get small pieces of debris in there.
Like I said before, there is no repair manual for the IAC which I've ever seen. Really, if you doubt your IAC, you should get a new one. This is just to extend the life.