Crank Sensor Trouble
#21
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Oh my god, Maxxtib, stop repeating yourself.
Ok, I will say this SLOWLY since you don't seem to understand.
WHILE I HAD THE KIT ON MY CAR, my crank sensor blew. While I was driving. Weird.
I CHANGED IT, WITH THE KIT STILL ON MY CAR. It kept blowing, but would start once in a while. I SEARCH ON NEWTIB and find a lot of THREADS about the UNICHIP BLOWING THE CKP SENSOR. I'm like, shit, there you go, that's my problem. So I toss the whole kit aside, while I get my dual fuel rail kit.
Well, I just installed a new clutch so I was breaking into it when the CKP sensors trouble started again.
NOW: The unichip CLEARLY SCREWED UP my original sensor.
AND.... It seems my newer one IS ALSO SCREWED UP, but the unichip was only on it for like 15km, so it didnt COMPLETELY fry it, but PARTIALLY, until it slowly gave out one day, even after taking out the unichip and running it like that for 3 weeks.
NOW IF YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND THERE'S A FRIGGIN PROBLEM. LOL
And I agree with you, well, not really. The unichip sucks. Yes. It SUCKS BIG BALLS. But also a lot of things were mis-aligned on my kit because it was the first one for the entry level, but now the hardware is good, then the damn software fails.
ANYWAYS I have a dual fuel rail kit, smt6, and turbo box waiting to go in right now so as soon as this is fixed and i can finish breaking into my clutch, i can reinstall some boost!!!
Redzman the more I read your posts the more i like you hail.gif hail.gif
Ok, I will say this SLOWLY since you don't seem to understand.
WHILE I HAD THE KIT ON MY CAR, my crank sensor blew. While I was driving. Weird.
I CHANGED IT, WITH THE KIT STILL ON MY CAR. It kept blowing, but would start once in a while. I SEARCH ON NEWTIB and find a lot of THREADS about the UNICHIP BLOWING THE CKP SENSOR. I'm like, shit, there you go, that's my problem. So I toss the whole kit aside, while I get my dual fuel rail kit.
Well, I just installed a new clutch so I was breaking into it when the CKP sensors trouble started again.
NOW: The unichip CLEARLY SCREWED UP my original sensor.
AND.... It seems my newer one IS ALSO SCREWED UP, but the unichip was only on it for like 15km, so it didnt COMPLETELY fry it, but PARTIALLY, until it slowly gave out one day, even after taking out the unichip and running it like that for 3 weeks.
NOW IF YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND THERE'S A FRIGGIN PROBLEM. LOL
And I agree with you, well, not really. The unichip sucks. Yes. It SUCKS BIG BALLS. But also a lot of things were mis-aligned on my kit because it was the first one for the entry level, but now the hardware is good, then the damn software fails.
ANYWAYS I have a dual fuel rail kit, smt6, and turbo box waiting to go in right now so as soon as this is fixed and i can finish breaking into my clutch, i can reinstall some boost!!!
Redzman the more I read your posts the more i like you hail.gif hail.gif
#22
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^^^
KeWLKaT,
can you define to me what you meant by "blew"? I mean, what exactly is happening?
also, now that the Unichip is off and with this latest CKP trouble, is it the same "blew" problem is happening?
can you give me a time line when you took off your unichip, installed the new clutch and then started having this problem? did this happened again after the clutch install?
lastly, when you took off your recent "defective" CKP sensor, what is it's physical condition, especially the front of it (magnet part)? can you see any marks, scratches, any evidence of it grinding against the crank teeth? etc?
we wanna eliminate the worst case scenario here, cause right now, i will be rebuilding my engine for the 2nd time, now due to crankwalk... the CKP sensor code and misfires is what prompted me of the problem
KeWLKaT,
can you define to me what you meant by "blew"? I mean, what exactly is happening?
also, now that the Unichip is off and with this latest CKP trouble, is it the same "blew" problem is happening?
can you give me a time line when you took off your unichip, installed the new clutch and then started having this problem? did this happened again after the clutch install?
lastly, when you took off your recent "defective" CKP sensor, what is it's physical condition, especially the front of it (magnet part)? can you see any marks, scratches, any evidence of it grinding against the crank teeth? etc?
we wanna eliminate the worst case scenario here, cause right now, i will be rebuilding my engine for the 2nd time, now due to crankwalk... the CKP sensor code and misfires is what prompted me of the problem
#24
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Thanks Kat. My issue is I've been working on these cars for YEARS now, and have seen all the ups and downs, the falls and combacks of these companies, and Alpine is just the same story every other year. BTW, they moved AGAIN, from Denver to Arizona.
As for your issue, I just got mine running again today, and it WAS my CKP sensor. It loosened up when I put my new oring on it the other day, sometime after I was done, and eventhough it wasn't far enough out to SEE it loose, it was enough to keep it from starting. Took maybe 4 turns of the ratchet to get it tightened again, and everything is good now, starts right up.
My question for you is, where did you get the NEW CKP sensor?
Is it the BETA 2 sensor 100% positive, or could it be you accidentally were given a Beta 1 sensor (I believe, even though they mount the same, they are NOT the same, difference between 8 and 16 bit ECU sensors).
Have you checked the resistance across the repaired wiring from the Unichip debacle?
I can call and make sure I get the right part # for the CKP sensor for your year of car. Give me all the info.
As for your issue, I just got mine running again today, and it WAS my CKP sensor. It loosened up when I put my new oring on it the other day, sometime after I was done, and eventhough it wasn't far enough out to SEE it loose, it was enough to keep it from starting. Took maybe 4 turns of the ratchet to get it tightened again, and everything is good now, starts right up.
My question for you is, where did you get the NEW CKP sensor?
Is it the BETA 2 sensor 100% positive, or could it be you accidentally were given a Beta 1 sensor (I believe, even though they mount the same, they are NOT the same, difference between 8 and 16 bit ECU sensors).
Have you checked the resistance across the repaired wiring from the Unichip debacle?
I can call and make sure I get the right part # for the CKP sensor for your year of car. Give me all the info.
#25
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there`s easy to spot
beta1 has about 6 inch of wire harness attached to it
beta2 has not wire ,connector is right on the sensor
beta1 has about 6 inch of wire harness attached to it
beta2 has not wire ,connector is right on the sensor
#27
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The sensor has to be shot i'm getting near infinity resistance on the sender wire which has to be between 4-500 ohms... lol
Anyways it seems that I'll be able to get a replacement since I kept my receipt smile.gif
It was an OEM sensor at the dealer, after running VINs and whatnot, I hope the guy didn't give me the wrong one owned.gif
Anyways it seems that I'll be able to get a replacement since I kept my receipt smile.gif
It was an OEM sensor at the dealer, after running VINs and whatnot, I hope the guy didn't give me the wrong one owned.gif
#28
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I have the entire inspection and trouble shooting writeup for the Beta 1 version in my Shop Manual. I'd recommend you get a shop manual, or borrow one, and check all the steps. They are VERY easy to follow.