Crank Sensor Trouble
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: Elantra XD GT
I dont know for you beta1 guys but we have the main bat ground on the upper tranny bolt, next to the starter bolt.
anyhow, i have a ground from the starter bolt to ... somewhere... but its like 4 awg, i need to add another ground and see if it helps.
anyhow, i have a ground from the starter bolt to ... somewhere... but its like 4 awg, i need to add another ground and see if it helps.
#15
When you pulled out your unichip did you at least solder all the wires back together, the unichip taps into the cranck sensor and that could be your problem, or when you installed the unichip maybe you pulled on a wire to hard causing it to break inside the insulaton where you can't see it. It sounds to me as you have a wiring problem and what you need to do is get some odb2 software to see if your ecu is getting a signal from the sensor or run a new wire straight from the sensor directly tp the ecu to bypass the factory harness and see if that helps. I can't see why you talk bad about Alpine since your car still won't run without the kit in it, I had the Alpine kit in my car for the past 6 years and have no problems with it, as long as it intalled the right way there won't be any.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: Elantra XD GT
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MaxxTib @ Jun 6 2007, 07:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>When you pulled out your unichip did you at least solder all the wires back together, the unichip taps into the cranck sensor and that could be your problem, or when you installed the unichip maybe you pulled on a wire to hard causing it to break inside the insulaton where you can't see it. It sounds to me as you have a wiring problem and what you need to do is get some odb2 software to see if your ecu is getting a signal from the sensor or run a new wire straight from the sensor directly tp the ecu to bypass the factory harness and see if that helps. I can't see why you talk bad about Alpine since your car still won't run without the kit in it, I had the Alpine kit in my car for the past 6 years and have no problems with it, as long as it intalled the right way there won't be any.</div>
No shit I soldered them back together, lol, or else the car wouldnt have worked at all.
And dude all of this is caused by the alpine kit, I had it for a year when one day the unichip decided to take a crap on me. anyways. everyone knows alpine is shit, lets not get into that right now, and try to fix my problem.
UPDATE:
I don't think it's the rotor, because I just pulled the code. I have P0335 Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor – circuit malfunction Wiring, CKP sensor, ECM
But the insecure rotor or whatever wouldve been p0336
Anyhow, a couple of things I collected I need help with:
From connector, on key-on:
Hot wire - 11.63 V
Sensor Wire- 0.25 V
(measurements were done using the connector ground)
On sensor:
Hot wire to ground - 148,5kOhm
Sender wire to ground - 20MOhm+ (pegged meter)
Something "fishy" I noticed aswell, whenever I would take voltage at the sender wire, I could hear the fuel pump priming?
No shit I soldered them back together, lol, or else the car wouldnt have worked at all.
And dude all of this is caused by the alpine kit, I had it for a year when one day the unichip decided to take a crap on me. anyways. everyone knows alpine is shit, lets not get into that right now, and try to fix my problem.
UPDATE:
I don't think it's the rotor, because I just pulled the code. I have P0335 Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor – circuit malfunction Wiring, CKP sensor, ECM
But the insecure rotor or whatever wouldve been p0336
Anyhow, a couple of things I collected I need help with:
From connector, on key-on:
Hot wire - 11.63 V
Sensor Wire- 0.25 V
(measurements were done using the connector ground)
On sensor:
Hot wire to ground - 148,5kOhm
Sender wire to ground - 20MOhm+ (pegged meter)
Something "fishy" I noticed aswell, whenever I would take voltage at the sender wire, I could hear the fuel pump priming?
#17
Moderator
do me a favor and get a resistance across the CKP sensor?
Ground is not needed on the wire. the 2 control wires, one goes high and the other goes low, then the other way around. That's how the computer knows what happened. It's just a magnet and an inductor. The ground is just there to protect the signal so it does not get ruined by interferance.
Webtech says the 0336 is the sensor out of range error.
Ground is not needed on the wire. the 2 control wires, one goes high and the other goes low, then the other way around. That's how the computer knows what happened. It's just a magnet and an inductor. The ground is just there to protect the signal so it does not get ruined by interferance.
Webtech says the 0336 is the sensor out of range error.
#18
http://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/images/vendor1.png
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,500
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: x3 accent gk tiburon santa fe
each time you touch the signal pin of the crank sensor harness (ecu side) you make an impulsion and the ecu think the engine is turning so it activates the fuel pump
the crank sensor has 3 wires
12 volts
ground
signal
i'd check that 12 volts and ground are good
and i'd check if the signal wire isn't shorted to ground or 12 volts and that it actually make continuity to the ecu
for the wheel and ridge part
wheel should be centered in the crank sensor hole when viewed at a straight
the ridge is normal it's there to prevent the o'ring sela to fall into the engine block
the crank sensor has 3 wires
12 volts
ground
signal
i'd check that 12 volts and ground are good
and i'd check if the signal wire isn't shorted to ground or 12 volts and that it actually make continuity to the ecu
for the wheel and ridge part
wheel should be centered in the crank sensor hole when viewed at a straight
the ridge is normal it's there to prevent the o'ring sela to fall into the engine block
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Posts: 34,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
You know, this isn't a stab at you Kewlkat, but I really think it's funny how this Alpine stuff has gone down. They made stuff, didn't promote it, didn't support it, and when I called them out about it for years, I get b****ed at for talking shit about their customer service, and the crappy unichip.
They "Come back" to the community, support us for about 1.5 days with promises of all sorts of stuff, everyone goes nuts talking about how nice the unichip is now and the possiblities. I talk to Unichip at NOpi and they say that Alpine just needs to fly one of their techs out for a decent mapping for the unichip, and then Alpine dissapears, folks fail to get their parts on time, service is still shit and still excused to some ancient f***er running the place, promises are unfufilled, and a new generation of folks learn that the unichip, specifically with the tune that is SENT with it, is a POS, and that there are hardly any tuners that actually tune the thing or know what it is.
Where are all of those Alpine backers now?
[/soapbox]
They "Come back" to the community, support us for about 1.5 days with promises of all sorts of stuff, everyone goes nuts talking about how nice the unichip is now and the possiblities. I talk to Unichip at NOpi and they say that Alpine just needs to fly one of their techs out for a decent mapping for the unichip, and then Alpine dissapears, folks fail to get their parts on time, service is still shit and still excused to some ancient f***er running the place, promises are unfufilled, and a new generation of folks learn that the unichip, specifically with the tune that is SENT with it, is a POS, and that there are hardly any tuners that actually tune the thing or know what it is.
Where are all of those Alpine backers now?
[/soapbox]
#20
I will still say my Alpine kit has been working fine and I have no problems with it for the past 5-6 years, but I do agree that the Unichip is a peice of crap, I went with the emanage and it was like night and day compared to the Unichip, The only problem I see people having with the Alpine kit is the unichip, I think there prices have gone a bit high for the kit but I paid $2600 when it was the only kit avaliable at the time.
I'm just asking how the unichip and turbo is causing his Crank sensor problems when it's not even installed in the car anymore, it just makes no sense to me how the Alpine kit can be the cause of all his problems, this is the first time I ever heard somebody blaming a turbo kit for their crank sensor problems even though it's not in the car anymore, there is no way the unichip can cause a crank sensor to go bad since it does not output anything to the crank sensor,it only receives and alters the signal. Now that its out of the car and the problem is still there it's not to blame, I can only see it being one of three things, either a bad sensor, wire harness or the ecu are causing his problems.
I'm just asking how the unichip and turbo is causing his Crank sensor problems when it's not even installed in the car anymore, it just makes no sense to me how the Alpine kit can be the cause of all his problems, this is the first time I ever heard somebody blaming a turbo kit for their crank sensor problems even though it's not in the car anymore, there is no way the unichip can cause a crank sensor to go bad since it does not output anything to the crank sensor,it only receives and alters the signal. Now that its out of the car and the problem is still there it's not to blame, I can only see it being one of three things, either a bad sensor, wire harness or the ecu are causing his problems.