KeWLKaT

Alright since DrivingTibNaked wanted me to post a new thread, here it is.

I have a problem with my crank sensor.

History:

I had the alpine kit with the unichip.

One day it started giving me CKP codes and the car would shut off by itself and I had to tow it home... Like 3 times in 4 days. So I took the whole damn kit off. Damn unichip. Damn alpine. f*** alpine.

Anyhow:

The car has been NA for 3-4 weeks now, all was well. The other day I parked my car from work then the next morning it wouldn't start.

I have replaced the crank sensor.

Today, removed the sensor, cleaned it, reset ECU, and it started! yay! but when i shut it off, it would crank but not turn over.

I repeated again, but it won't work.

NOW: one thing I realized, take a look at the picture I am attaching.

1- Is the ring supposed to be misaligned, or is the crank walking on me or just the ring
2- is the notch in the sleeve supposed to be there, or it broke off?


BTW this is on a beta2

DTN

From my understanding of the CPS, it is basicaly a "hall effects transistor". Whenever the magnet gets close to the sensor it will trigger a pulse and let the ECU know when the crank is at a certain position.

Electronics go bad, but I would trust a single transistor doing a single repetative task more then the billions of transistors in this computer. It is more likely that the magnet is not aligned with the sensor, then the sensor giving out. But our cars are NOT known for crank walk, and supposedly the crank is good to 650HP.

Do you have the codes it was throwing?

Can you tell if the hole is dead on with the crank?
Is your sensor fully inserted?
Have you replaced the sensor?

KeWLKaT

I don't recall the exact code but it was saying ''Crankshaft Circuit Malfunction'' as a pending DTC, not an actual CEL light. Weird.

Also, dude, these engines are pretty known for crankwalk. At least the beta2. It doesn't happen OFTEN, but it has happened.

Also, the sensor IS fully inserted, I have changed it already so before spending another 159$ I will look into the situation a bit more. Not sure about the alignment of the ring with the sensor which is why I posted the pic...

DTN

that picture shows the hole at an angle. The important thing is not the mounting, but the relative position of the crank to the sensor.

KeWLKaT

You're talking about the distance between the two right?

Something I noticed is I have a dark line on the sensor, on top of it, this has happened in the past weeks, since it was new.

DTN

Basically, the Crank Position Sensor uses the magnet on the crank to tell how many times it's spinning past the sensor. That's the important thing. If it is aligned enough to get the signal, then you should check the associated wiring.

does it look like it's hitting?

KeWLKaT

LOL I know how the sensor works, it's in my field of study fing02.gif

I don't know man, I should measure stuff but i'm tired now.

The fact that it sometimes works and sometimes doesnt makes me think this is all a bad electric short somewhere. or maybe i have a blown fuse, haha, but i checked all the underhood ones, maybe something inside is different, hmmmmmm

DTN

what's your field of study anyways?


Here's the schematic... Comes from the mysterious box, through the connector, to the sensor, through the connector, back to the mysterious box.



O/T on fuses... Today I blew up a fuse for my sunroof/door chime. I checked the fuse, it looked like it was a bit twisted, like it was hit too hard or something but still OK. So i checked it with my multimeter and it had .7 ohms.. Still sounded ok to me. so, just for the heck of it I replaced the fuse with another one and the door chime started working. It looked ok, it tested ok, but it wasn't passing current. Darndest thing ever.

looking at the schematic, it is actually a coil, which means you can test it for continuity with a multimeter. Should be less then 100 ohms i think.

KeWLKaT

Mech eng. drillsergeant.gif

Alright, you just sparked something in my head.

I just did a clutch job a week prior to all this happening and messed with my engine ground obviously.

I have my bat in the back, so stock ground was removed and replaced (over a year ago). I understand from your diag that the CKP and CMP have a comon chassis or engine ground.

If it is an engine ground, maybe it's just a bad ground on my side. I will add one more chassis ground from the engine tomorrow and see what happens! Though I won't hold my breath on that, ha.

DTN

I don't recall messing with any engine grounds durring my clutch job 2 weeks ago.

Then again, i've also got a 2AWG battery cable I installed as a additional engine ground. So even if I missed that ground, i've still got ground to the engine.

dude, if that is the problem, you could test it in the middle of the night with a piece of wire... just hook it up the way I hooked up this ground. It's easy.