Draken

OK i have a 98 tib 2.0l and I can't figure this out for the life of me. I've checked wires, plugs ,coil packs, batt and alt. Everything seems to check out, but this only happens say at a stop light. My Idle seems to be a little low. The tach sits just below 1k.Any ways it will idle fine for a min. then just cut out most of the time there is no engine death wobble (but occasionaly) most of the time just dies.. any ideas will be checked into.. oh and on a seccond note i'm not getting any codes either.
Thanks ahead for any tips

Ericy321

Look at the throttle body. There is a sensor on it. If it says Dae Sung, get a new one. They are known to go bad and cause all kinds of crazy issues.

Any modifications or anything done recently?

stealth

for right now you could try turning up your idle screw, that will fix it for now, but seems to create problems down the road if not fixed

Draken

Where is that idle adjust screw at.. and no serious mods yet still working out the small stuff before i move onto anything major but i'm thinking of supercharging before next summer just gotta set some money together for parts..
and thanks again guys

Stocker

If the recall for 2000 elantras also reached back to 98 tibs, you may have flaky wiring at the MAF sensor. My car had the MAFS wiring worked on by the dealership under warranty (when it was under warranty) for occasional stalling at idle.

To test the throttle position sensor, push on the flat side and then twist a little bit by hand around the axis of the throttle plate shaft. If the idle changes, the sensor is bad. There should be a screw somewhere on the throttle body that will change where the full-closed position of the throttle plate is, inside the throttle body. Look for that when you are messing around with the sensor.

Draken

OK well I got it to stop stalling by adjusting the idle screw It confused me for a bit because there was a plastic piece inside of the well where the screw was and i'm not one for breaking things off with out good reason.

and thanks for the tip about the TPS i will have to check that out in the morning.

DTN

You shouldn't have to adjust the idle screw unless it was adjusted before. Your IAC takes care of the automatic adjustment of the throttle. just dont get it too low or the car will shake. If you get it too high, the car will roll it's RPMs a few hundred rpms when decellerating.

Draken

Ok here's the update i have adjusted my idle screw to get by things are working SORTA any ways i pulled a code from the car and got a p0506 now i checked the code here

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewpost17787.php

and they give a whole detailed BS walk through on trouble shooting unfortunately I have a cheap ass OBDII code reader that don't do all that fancy RPM change crap.

So long story short Does anyone know an easyer way to trouble shoot and possibly fix this issue?

Bullfrog

Try getting a new IAC

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/emai...end.php?ni=272

from a junker of course or look around but thats the pic of one, its right behind the intake manifold.

Stocker

Image link not working?

The IAC is a gold cylindrical thing just behind, above, and slightly to the left of center of, the plenum on the intake manifold. It has a thick tube going to it from the right, and wires to the other end. It's not all that hard to replace, and I have one spare for cheap, if you can't source one locally.

You might try taking a q-tip and some pure isopropyl alcohol and cleaning the MAF element on the off chance that's it. Also, have a peek inside the throttle body, as it may need cleaning.

As far as that goes, the IAC may be all gunked up, too. Throw some brake cleaner or some such in there and work it a few times with a screwdriver and see if it idles better when it's dried out again. I'm guessing the TPS wasn't the problem?