Hive

I have a similar problem also. For now I have solved it by putting in a dual FAL's and connecting them to a switch. So, whenever I do overheat I just flick the switch and both of the wents start pulling air and that keeps the temps down for now. But, I am sure that I will have to address this issue differently. I am also leaning towards putting a Koyo in But will have to see if I have enough space for it.

Stocker

It's easy enough to find a fan company making a fan/thermostatic switch bundle so you don't have to remember/notice to switch on.

Turning on the heat adds a second radiator. If your cooling system is only marginally overloaded, putting some of the engine heat into the cabin of the car is a great temporary fix. Buty yesterday the heat index here was 107 degrees.

radu_rd2

Yes, turning on the heat obviously takes a lot of the heat out of the system. Not exactly pleasant when everyone is already hot and instead of AC you turn on the heat on max lol

About the vented hood - I was thinking one with a reverse vent that encourages air to come out of the engine bay, so that more will come in through the front

Regit

I would say its the water pump.,I have a huge yonaka radiator,and after the rebuild,the bottom hose was not getting hot,so I cut out the guts of my thermostat and reinstalled it,let it run for a while,and watched the temperature stay very cool.,the next day I bought a new oem thermostat and installed it. The thermostat would not open again?,but the temperature guage was showing normal?(needle at half)...so I was still running at a good temp even with a closed thermmostat because 2 fans on a big rad was enough to keep things cool., I turned the temp at which the fans come on up 10 degrees via the haltec,and now the thermostat opens correctly., the otherday,the wire from the battery to the fuse for the fans let go, and I overheated quickley!..I think your pump is not pushin correctly Radu_rd2.and my vented hood keeps the engine way cooler!

radu_rd2

Tried changing the rad cap to the one I had on the car, same deal. It got to about 215-220F on the highway. It starts to cool down slowly at low speeds tho. Entire rad and both hoses are very hot

Since the rad is so hot I really think it's just not getting enough airflow. With the stock rad I would have problems in traffic, but on the highway it would cool down fast, which makes me think it's not the water pump..

The rad is moved all the way to the driver's side, and I think at high speeds most of the air from the top bumper opening gets through the middle of the car, mostly going around the rad.. The air that comes through the bottom is blocked off by the IC.. I need to think about doing some ducts to force the air through the rad, not sure how to do that tho

ONLY1DB

^^^


sounds funny but take your bumber cover off and go drive...if it is the flow you will find out right away.

radu_rd2

haha maybe i'll do that. but please stop quoting the post above, it's useless and adds a lot of clutter to threads (use the add reply button)

rd2pimp

just a thought, but i noticed a big difference in my cooling system when i dropped in my low temp thermostat from sr. i never over heat anymore but then again im not turbo

UrS0NvS

I think what i would do in the end Radu would be a full coolant system flush. if you have your original thermostat in your car, change it out for a new one since they are fairly cheap and then refill with a higher quality coolant that what you normally run.

use your scanner to take down temperatures before and after all that and if it doesn't change much or none at all, look at the bigger ticket items that are offered. since you are close to 100k in mileage (saw a pic of your speedo one time) or you might be over now and since you probably have not owned your car from brand new you don't really know what they first owner did for care on the car.

radu_rd2

i flushed it and changed the thermostat when i changed the radiator