MechaniX_034

Sharkey, unless you're competant with engine teardown and assembly this is going to cost you a bomb. Talk to your local garages(it helps a whole lot if they're familiar with or specialize in Hyundais)about the pricing structure, and haggle a bit to get the best deal. If you want to go major overbore you are going to need the block resleeved and the bearings, con-rods and quite possibly the crankshaft replaced to handle the compression, inertial and power load that would have gone through the roof.

If you really want to go crazy with NA then you may want to go with a stroker kit (RPW if the beer's out of my brain )and some block treatment(Magnafluxing for stress relief)Just remember that the block will have to be bored out WITH a torque plate.

With the stroker kit the swept volume of the engine increases substantially, so you're gonna need headwork done(port work, valve upsize and valve guide upgrade along with a set of higher lift and duration cams, valvetrain upgrade, gasket and stud kit for the head and sump(yes, in-block pressures increase with the stroker kit also)

All in all, you're gonna be in for more than this when it comes to building a crazy-powered engine.Remember that you will need Programmable Engine Management if you truly want to go insane

Good luck!

Random

sharkey9883

There is also available from RPW (via Shark Racing) a 2.1L crank. This is a longer stroke crank to pick up the extra 0.1L. Combined with the overbore, it would get you 2.2L.

Ruben-
Money is all you need. If you want to go with 100:1 compression ratio, you can do it, if you've got several million to spend on engine R&D as Red stated. You could ask the same question, how much boost can I run? easy, 200 PSI. If you've got the same several million or so to put into the R&D to make it work. Almost anything is possible (Except 100:1 CR with 200 PSI of boost) if you have enough money.

If you set some HP goals, we can help you reach them is the most cost efficent manner we know how, but simply asking what CR or PSI is possible is like asking how fast can I go? Speed only costs money. I'm sure you could get an accent over 400 MPH with enough aerodynamic changes, enough motor, and a big enough dry lakebed.

Realistically, N/A race motors run in the 13:1 to 15:1 range, with some I have heard of in teh 18:1 range. However most ultra high compression engines use alternate fuels (not gasoline, but nitromethane or alochol).

If this is an area you are interested in (building/modifing engines), there are plenty of books on the subject you could pick up.

sharkey9883

thanks guys for your advice and lack of sarcasm. i don't think i will be doing the bore out job, and when weighing the lack of hyundai or turbo educated shops in my area, combined with the fact that i myself am still a novice, i should probably stay NA, maybe add some nitrous. that way i could do most of the work myself. i'm not as crazy with my car as you all yet, (yet...) my goals are to be able to beat a stock Celica GTS or Civic SI or ,gasp... even an RSX type S. people who think they're cool just cuz they plopped down daddys checkbook at the dealership. then maybe with a little more money and experience, i'll go after the big fish, people like yourselves, who make the big power. Random said *set a HP goal, and we'll tell you how to reach that* so i'm lookin to get 200 hp at the crank. (cuz that's what the riceboy cars advertise in the brochures, at the crank) thanks again guys.

Shadohh

I'd say the easiet thing is to get some headwork done. I think Red had some headwork done and dynoed at 142whp , then he realized he was only running on 3 cyclinders smile.gif

Red

Other than being a bit odd, the ol' Captain basically told you correctly. The money you want to spend will directly correlate to how much compression you can run. Outside of that, boring these motors really doesn't give you much.

I bored mine over only because brand new pistons require very specific tolerances between the piston and cylinder walls. The only way to guarantee those clearances was to have the block overbored to precisely match the new pistons.

The cylinder head work didn't gain much on my N/A motor... I want to say about 4 wheel horsepower. It was running on only three cylinders when we dynoed, but the dyno number was around 134WHP.

I've had the head on my turbo project *hog* ported (ie way oversize) just because of the airflow I plan on pushing through it. N/A starts losing power if you're not careful with it...

Trypgod

Where would I send an e-mail to to inquire about the 2.1 crank??