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Better Than Oem Injectors? 1.8 Ecu

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Old 03-28-2007, 02:28 PM
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Well that's how I'd test them (my multimeter have a "continuity test", it'll beep if current can pass through the wires)

What I meant by harness is to check if there is some oxydation (sp?) on the connectors (you never know), see if the connectors are still connected to the wires. And also if the harness is loose or cracked and could cause a connection problem (even if that problem is rare and probably not what is the cause of youur problems).

And for the gas problem, as you said the car was sitting for some time and runs better with a full tank, I would pour some water removing solution in there.
Old 03-28-2007, 02:40 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Patreezy @ Mar 28 2007, 03:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>You may just need an overhaul tune-up. Including everything.

Starts with all the fuel stuff you have already. new injectors. new fuel filter (it's really not hard or expensive and needs to be done anyways, just a pita to make space to allow access to it).

new plugs, check your wire resistance. I think it's supposed to be something like 400ohms per inch. Check your manual or webtech for confirmed numbers. Also check for arcing (while misting) @ idle, and general insulator wear and tear, spark plug connections ok? etc. Might as well buy new ones anyways. Coil packs can be checked but rarely go "bad".</div>

New injectors and fuel filter on the way.

New Plugs x2 already, Wire Resistance checked, and within standards (lookin' to get PRD ones later)
Arcing checked, Wires only a year old (just got some crummy NGK ones) Coil Pack checked and within standard.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Air filter. Do it asap. oil and your oil filter.

Give your engine an overall inspection, take stuff apart if you have to. Common items needing replacement are valve cover gaskets, radiator hoses, cleaned battery terminals, etc. the small stuff..

And while your at it, you can replace your transmission fluid and filter (if applicable) while cleaning out the pan and metal shavings.

Then if your car's still running shotty at certain points (like when your tank's low) it might be time to remove that valve cover again and do a leak down compression test and see the overall condition of your engine.</div>

I've been changing the oil and air filter very regularly since its been up and running. Transmission fluid has been flushed, solvent run through, and replaced. New battery, terminals cleaned, Seafoam-ed all over the place. (IAC, TB, and other lines)

Haven't replaced radiator hoses or valve cover gaskets, have to look into those.


Car was running alright for bout a year, loud due to a worn out flex pipe, but now it has a steady misfire which I'm trying to get rid of...

I understand that when gas sits for a long time, it can gunk up. I think thats whats happened, and when the fuel gets real low, the gunk gets sucked into the system and causes the momentary misfires I was experience earlier. I'm hoping the 3-4 cans of seafoam and the auto rx1 is going to use will degunk the tank relieve that issue. (New fuel filter is along that train of thought)

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (jalmir @ Mar 28 2007, 03:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Well that's how I'd test them (my multimeter have a "continuity test", it'll beep if current can pass through the wires)

What I meant by harness is to check if there is some oxydation (sp?) on the connectors (you never know), see if the connectors are still connected to the wires. And also if the harness is loose or cracked and could cause a connection problem (even if that problem is rare and probably not what is the cause of youur problems).

And for the gas problem, as you said the car was sitting for some time and runs better with a full tank, I would pour some water removing solution in there.</div>

The meter I have also has the continuity option, just never actually used/figured out what its for laugh.gif So you just touch the wire with 1 dem probes and it should beep? Or what?

I checked the harness, its clean and the connections are very good. All the harnesses are in good condition, except where I've scratched em up while trying to figure out how they come apart. And yes.. I broke the lil plastic receptacle on the ignition coil, but it still works properly so.. *shrug*
Old 03-28-2007, 02:56 PM
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lol yeah as I told you in PM I also broke the connector from the metal support but that's just it : a support tongue.gif

Yeah you place the probe on the connector (ie : the ground) and put the other probe on a ground, if the wire is ok it should beep ...

BTW I don't know when I'll have the coil because I don't know when my car will be ready (they called today and said they still have problem making the car run properly) 02.gif but that is if you still want the coil! lol
Old 03-28-2007, 07:06 PM
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At this point, it doesn't look like I'll be needing it. Thanks though...

I did find one harness that hasn't been connected, from the looks of it, for a long time. Its taped bunch of wires right next to the windshield motor. I don't see anything for it to be plugged into, I'll have to look that up later.

I'd just like to get rid of this misfire, then I'll go about doing a deep maintenance which changing the gasket (maybe pick up a 1.8 cam at the same time too!)

Ha... looking to upgrade the ECU, Header, and Cam before I even get a CAI... Budget constraints + order of things to be done heh.

EDIT: Damn.. CAI on ebay are cheap as heck! But is their quality as shoddy too?
Old 03-29-2007, 06:32 AM
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to find misfire you don't need to pull injectors. you need to pull spark plug wires
Old 03-29-2007, 08:10 PM
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Already did that...



I'm at the fuel injector part... going to go for cleaning today.


Well... bad news reporting

Got the injectors I ordered yesterday, and they were on the rail still (got the whole set of em). So I pulled em off, and saw that there was a little fuel trapped by the O ring between the rail that has been slowly leaking out, putting a film of rust on the rail where it dripped down to. Some of that rusty gas also got in the injectors.

So I carefully cleaned em up best I could, checked em with the ohm meter, and stuck em in the car. No luck... wouldn't come close to starting. Only intermittent pops on the engine, so I figured at best, 2 of the injectors actually worked.

So I put a cloth under em, put a cloth under em, and pulled em. The first one I pulled, gas came spraying out, indicating the gas was under pressure, more than when I first pulled em out. Thought bout it for a bit, and decided I'd test to see just how many were spraying, I'd put em back, and have em spray into the cloth.

Just bout killed the car, and possibly myself heh. I didn't put the lil clips holding the injectors to the rail back on, didn't think it necessary. I blipped the engine twice, and the second time heard a pop from the engine, made me jump in my seat.

I went around and saw that the injector 2 and ejected itself from the rail and soaked the cloth with gas. Some of the fumes had entered the piston and ignited. Luckily, it didn't ignite the cloth, otherwise I would of had quite an engine fire, with the gas line exposed due to the injector being pushed out.

So I smartened up, put the injector clips back on, pulled the wires from the ignition coil, and replaced the cloth. Had a friend blip the engine, while I stood over the injectors to observer.

Sure enough, only injector 1 and 4 were working. Injector 4 was spraying a decent amount, Injector 1 was only dribbling the fuel. I called up the yard I got em from, told em what happened, supposed to be a 30 day warranty. Oh yeah, one of the injectors (#1) had a cracked top to boot. The guy there said he didn't have the authority and would have to get back to me tomorrow....

Yar, so now I'm looking for injectors again. I'm thinking I just need to get new ones. I don't trust cracked tops (there isn't anything really holding the oring to make the seal between the injector and the engine. But its almost 200 bucks for new injectors >< Damn...

Ahh... a note on the cleaning... turns out no one around here does that.

I'd have to order a kit from somewhere.
Old 04-10-2007, 02:56 PM
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UPDATE: 4/10

Ordered PRD Spark Plug Wires (going to test the resistance on these and post em up), some warrantied Injectors, new O2 sensor, and 98 Elantra 1.8 ECU...

as well as ceramic coated header/flex (thanks tanc!) to cover the hole in the flex pipe... means I'll get a CEL till get a proper-cat back in, but I'll live with it. Oh got a OBD II reader too, just for more checking. Just to top it off, got a CAI as well... I splurged a little... I stopped short of getting the drilled/slotted rotors though!

After all this, and its the Knock sensor thats causing my problems.... I'll be sad for sure... (how the hell would a knock sensor cause a misfire?!)

Putting in a bottle of Auto RX1 in the gas just to clean things out...

Going to pick up a K&N oil filter for my next oil change, as well try out some additive that I've heard good things about...




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