enigo

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>so was it your injectors?</div>

Injectors don't come until tomorrow, so I can't say yet! I sure hope they fix the problem...


Well... figured it out...

39110-23930 is a 2.0 ECU Rev B
39150-23940 is a 1.8 ECU Rev B

39110-23910 is a 2.0 ECU Rev A
39150-23920 is a 1.8 ECU Rev A (guy I talked to thought this was a 1.6 from a 1998 Elantra, but it doesn't seem right, as all 1997 1.8s listed on car-parts.com are this)

Any other numbers are assumed incompatible, or Rev A

And they don't have it... They have the 2.0 Rev B and 1.8 Rev A ... damn!

'treezy

Was P0304 the only code that showed up?

The little piece that cracked off the head of your injector isn't the cause of your misfire. And you probbaly didn't break them while wiggling them around.
Logically thinking, if the #4 cyl. injector had a broken plastic head and was the cause of a misfire and code P0304 then the broken injector head in cyl. #1 would've caused a misfire and a P0301 or P0300 code, right?

So it's probably not the cause, but nice your getting new injectors anyway (or did you say they were used?)
If you bought used ones, how many miles are on them? Get them cleaned and tested (for their spray pattern).

FYI, your injectors will still spray fine if that little yellow plastic head is broken off. And the plastic head will not harm your engine, it melts. wink1.gif

enigo

Digging around, I realized that the code that I had read to me was actually 0301, and #1 injector was badly cracked up. #4 had a minor one, #1 's head was almost falling apart.

I'm getting used injectors with 30k miles on em. Question: How do you test spray pattern n whats the best way to clean em?

If the injectors spray just fine with or without the plastic head, then it seems like I'm A) pointlessly spending money on used injectors and B) not going to resolve my issue... (Wish ya told me that before I order em! My fault for not waitin, but wanted to get it working again asap)

In that case, that leaves the ECU or the TPS (... acceleration sensor = TPS right?). I'm lookin' to replace the ECU with a 1.8 Rev B, but it seems they don't exist anymore heh... ya guys have swallowed em all up. Literally all the ones listed on car-parts.com are from 1997, and the 3 from 1998 are actually 2.0s not 1.8s ... probably have to wait for a member that has a spare to notice I'm seeking one!

EDIT: bah! I'm tired... I forgot that the 1.8 Elantra from 1998 is Rev B, and is the exact same unit as the Tiburon ECU, there are tons of those on car-parts.com! Heh... I feel better now laugh.gif

rallyman

I don't agree that acceleration sensor = TPS. The TPS is the throttle position sensor and if that info was coming from Webtech and they meant TPS it would say TPS. I've heard the Bosch sensor that's mounted on top of the strut tower on the driver's side called the acceleration sensor. My understanding is that the ECU uses information from that sensor and compares it to readings from the engine knock sensor to determine whether the engine is actually knocking or the car is just travelling over rough roads.

jalmir

^^^

what he says

'treezy

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>I'm getting used injectors with 30k miles on em. Question: How do you test spray pattern n whats the best way to clean em?</div>

Take them to an automotive mechanic. Some place that does fuel delivery work and they should be able to flush them and test them.

Ericy321

rallyman is right. and niether of those would cause a misfire i dont think. i know you checked webtech but have you tested everything in their step by step procedure. last one is the ecu but i kinda doubt you have a bad ecu

jalmir

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Ericy321 @ Mar 28 2007, 03:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>rallyman is right. and niether of those would cause a misfire i dont think. i know you checked webtech but have you tested everything in their step by step procedure. last one is the ecu but i kinda doubt you have a bad ecu</div>

And I would add

Test you wires and harness, that's the only thing I never tested on my car and it was exactly that, plus the ECU (I had some shorts in my wires and the ECU finally died after 2 years of "gremlins" problems)

enigo

Short of the acceleration sensor, I've tested each one, step by step.

Plugs, Wires, Ignition Coil, Injector (was just cracked). All thats left is ECU n the acceleration sensor. I also have an o2 sensor I'm thinking to install (was going to wait till I got new headers) and ordered a new fuel filter as well. One thing I noticed is that when the car gets a fresh tank of gas it runs a lot better. In fact, in the past, its behaved badly when the tank got low (misfire occasionally), and it always cleared up when I refilled. Now the car has been sitting for 3 years before I got it running now, and I didn't think to drain out the tank. I've put in 3-4 cans of seafoam into the tank, and am planning to put in some Auto RX1 (or XR1) once I get it running again.

When I get the injectors, I'll take em to town and get em cleaned before I put em in.

I'm planning to replace the ECU anyways, so I figured I'd take care of it now, and see if it put things in shape. That is if I can find one for a sane price... Seems everyone wants 75+ for em nowadays. At least all the $Call ones do.

I have to admit that there are more numbers than what I listed above, there is 39110 23940 as well as 39100 23940 and some odd long one that beings with 9 (39150 was a typo). I've run into all of em while calling the different salvage yards quoting for an 1.8 ECU. Since 39100 had problems, I'm shooting for a 39110.





Test the Injection harness? Wires = ?

How would you test them? Using an ohm meter to measure resistance? Or some more fancy...

'treezy

You may just need an overhaul tune-up. Including everything.

Starts with all the fuel stuff you have already. new injectors. new fuel filter (it's really not hard or expensive and needs to be done anyways, just a pita to make space to allow access to it).

new plugs, check your wire resistance. I think it's supposed to be something like 400ohms per inch. Check your manual or webtech for confirmed numbers. Also check for arcing (while misting) @ idle, and general insulator wear and tear, spark plug connections ok? etc. Might as well buy new ones anyways. Coil packs can be checked but rarely go "bad".

Air filter. Do it asap. oil and your oil filter.

Give your engine an overall inspection, take stuff apart if you have to. Common items needing replacement are valve cover gaskets, radiator hoses, cleaned battery terminals, etc. the small stuff..

And while your at it, you can replace your transmission fluid and filter (if applicable) while cleaning out the pan and metal shavings.

Then if your car's still running shotty at certain points (like when your tank's low) it might be time to remove that valve cover again and do a leak down compression test and see the overall condition of your engine.