Battery Relocation/optima/odyssey Battery Questions.
#23
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Here is how I would do it, Redz.. I would have answered this earlier, but I am having connection issues to the site.
JEGS remote battery terminals
Fab up a plate in the stock battery location, run the hot lead from the battery to the positive. Ground out the negative lead to a good ground on the body. At the battery end, run the negative terminal directly to a good ground. This allows you to keep your stock wiring in the engine compartment AND makes it easier to jumpstart your car if something should go wrong.
As for your question about running two 680s.. you put them in parrelle, not in series. Positive to positive, negative to negative. This is how small diesel trucks run their double batteries when they do not have 24volt systems, it is also how I am going to be running mine when I get my "new" tib.
JEGS remote battery terminals
Fab up a plate in the stock battery location, run the hot lead from the battery to the positive. Ground out the negative lead to a good ground on the body. At the battery end, run the negative terminal directly to a good ground. This allows you to keep your stock wiring in the engine compartment AND makes it easier to jumpstart your car if something should go wrong.
As for your question about running two 680s.. you put them in parrelle, not in series. Positive to positive, negative to negative. This is how small diesel trucks run their double batteries when they do not have 24volt systems, it is also how I am going to be running mine when I get my "new" tib.
#24
well, it seems like you got this all figured out, but here is what i have done with my set up.
i have 12-15' of 0 gauge welding cable (not exactly sure) for my positive wire
i have 3' of 0 gauge welding cable for my ground.
the STOCK ground assembly (where it mounts to battery).i put an eye fitting on it, sanded an area down in the engine bay and grounded it to the frame.
the STOCK power assembly (where it mounts to battery). i put an eyelet on the stock assembly and an eyebolt on the new power cable, made them VERY tight, and wrapped it up.
for the routing of the power line i went under the car, along the route of the existing hard lines. i used zip ties to existing lines every 6". i used an existing drain hole in the spare tire well to route the power wire through.
for the routing of the ground cable, i drilled a hole in the spare tire well, sanded it down a bit, and used an eyelit to bolt it to the frame. i then sealed up the area with some silicone.
i have 12-15' of 0 gauge welding cable (not exactly sure) for my positive wire
i have 3' of 0 gauge welding cable for my ground.
the STOCK ground assembly (where it mounts to battery).i put an eye fitting on it, sanded an area down in the engine bay and grounded it to the frame.
the STOCK power assembly (where it mounts to battery). i put an eyelet on the stock assembly and an eyebolt on the new power cable, made them VERY tight, and wrapped it up.
for the routing of the power line i went under the car, along the route of the existing hard lines. i used zip ties to existing lines every 6". i used an existing drain hole in the spare tire well to route the power wire through.
for the routing of the ground cable, i drilled a hole in the spare tire well, sanded it down a bit, and used an eyelit to bolt it to the frame. i then sealed up the area with some silicone.
#25
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Hope you already bought those batteries back when I bought mine and you were asking about it.
Cause ever since the Odyssey craze started, the price got jacked from $60 to over $110, mostly $120.
Supply and demand.........
Cause ever since the Odyssey craze started, the price got jacked from $60 to over $110, mostly $120.
Supply and demand.........
#27
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Thanks for the renewed interest folks, but I already posted what I'm gonna do.
LOL
Imay not use the 0 Gauge welding cable though, I think 0 gauge amp wiring should work fine. As for the batteries, it's not worth it, as I'd only save about 10 pounds, if that, total, when done, and have a LOT less standby time.
LOL
Imay not use the 0 Gauge welding cable though, I think 0 gauge amp wiring should work fine. As for the batteries, it's not worth it, as I'd only save about 10 pounds, if that, total, when done, and have a LOT less standby time.
#30
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
If you're going under the car like socks did I would highly suggest using welding cable, because it will hold up to any abuse a lot better. If you're going through the car (fender, under the carpet and the back seats) then the amp cable will probably be a lot easier.