radu_rd2

The site mentioned something about removing lower rad hose and tilting the vehicle (jack up the back), any idea if that would work?

cheesebox

Evans npg is the shit, I have a rx7 I know hot and this stuff can cool it down. Draining the block is only half the trouble, if your daunted by the dont do it. You need to get EVERYTHING, every single god damn thing out of your cooling system or your new npg will be as good as coolant 02.gif. Its low pressure, like 2-3 psi, you dont need to mess with your cap, and unless you have a leak at 2-3 psi your not going to be sprouting any annoying coolant leaks. Generally when converting a system to NPG you open the radiator stop cock, open the engine drain, disconnect the lines for the heater core connect a 90 psi air gun to your heater core inlet line, move your outlet to a tub. Power that shit out. let everything drain for a full day.

REDZMAN

I don't remember ever seeing a engine drain for ours, but I can think of a few ways maybe...

I'll have to use this stuff when i get my new radiator.

1. Throttle body heater line. You could just plug one end with a cap, or a bolt in the hose there clamped in, then put air pressure through the other line as suggested above, blow it out the radiator hoses or just through the radiator draincock.

2. The vent line from the radiator, pull that off the coolant tank and blow through there with a compressor like mentioned above.

3. Drain the radiator, and then remove it. Pull your spark plug wires off and do some cranking to have the water pump get out as much as possible.

Hell, one of those electric fluid pumps would probably work too. I'd probably just flush the SHIT out of the entire system with a radiator flush, then use a few of the above methods at the end to get out the last of the water.

Or look at this.

www.evanscooling.com

http://www.evanscooling.com/download/ECS_9...nstructions.pdf

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>DRAINING OF OLD COOLANT

Complete drain instructions must be followed especially when converting from OAT (Organic Acid Technology, such as DexCool) or HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) Coolants, improper draining and flushing may leave residual OAT or HOAT coolant which is not compatible with Evans Waterless Coolants.

COOLING SYSTEM MUST BE DRAINED COMPLETELY, RADIATOR, BLOCK, HEATER !!

Let the engine cool, set the heater control on maximum, and open the radiator drain. As soon as the expansion tank is empty, remove the radiator cap. On vehicles with block drains, remove the drain plugs and break through any sediment, which may be blocking the drain. Inspect drained fluid for rust and scale, if found flush as required (See Flushing and cleaning). For vehicles without block drains, remove the lower radiator hose at the radiator, remove the radiator drain cock and elevate the vehicle as required to drain the system To insure complete removal of old coolant, flush with Evans PREP fluid

Flushing and Cleaning

All water and remaining coolant must be removed from the system prior to installing EVANS “Waterless” Coolants. The
engine and system must be completely drained, if necessary, use Evans PREP Fluid as a flush. When converting older systems a chemical flush should be used to clean the system prior to flushing and installing Evans “Waterless” Coolants.
To insure that all residual coolant is evacuated from the heater core, disconnect both heater hoses at the engine side of the heater, lower one hose into a drain pan and very gently introduce air into the other hose until fluid is fully drained. It is advisable to pour the EVANS PREP fluid, into the higher of the two heater hoses until it visibly flows from the draining hose in order to flush out old coolant.

DAILY DRIVER INSTRUCTIONS (Use NPG+ in vehicles driven in less than 30°F. weather, NPGR for seasonally driven vehicles also recommended in vehicles with brass/cooper radiators. Refer to page 1 for Minimum radiator core suggestions bases on engine HP.)
1. NEVER work on a conventional hot pressurized water/antifreeze cooling system – allow cooling completely before starting coolant conversion.
2. Drain and flush the entire system including the block and heater. By removing hoses and opening drains.
3. Replace all hoses and drains and fill the engine and radiator with Evans “Waterless” Coolant.
4. Fill the expansion tank half full.
5. Install the self adhesive round “Evans” decal provided, on the radiator cap or close to the fill location.
6. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Turn the heater on high, and check the coolant level in the tank.
7. Adjust the level in the expansion tank to half full. Replace the radiator cap. Monitor the level in the expansion tank the next couple of times the vehicle is driven. Once the system is stabilized the coolant level in the expansion tank should stay half full at normal operating temperature.
8. For problem systems: see Hi performance /Racing instructions
9. Test residual water content with a refractometer, E2190.
Note: If you are unable to drain the block there are two options. (1) Fill ½ the system capacity with Evans PREP Fluid, run engine until the thermostat opens and normal operating temperature is reached. Continue to idle system for up to 30 minutes. Drain out Evans PREP Fluid and dispose of properly. Fill system with NPG+ Coolant. The result should be less than 5% by volume of residual water remaining. Test with a refractometer.</div>

DTN

I took this picture from the identifying the beta block thread. In this picture you can see the 3 expansion plugs for the coolant system. They are right under the silverish coolant hose on the block. Behind those plugs is the antifreeze. Usually you can order more expansion plugs. They are there to pop out in case the coolant freezes so that the block is not destroyed. They are also there to aid in the manufacture of the coolant passageways for the engine.