97DerekTiburon

Is it flush-mounted to the engine or is there a sleeve or something that holds it on. I ask because both bolts are out but the alternator pivots like the bottom bolt is still in.

Just wondering how it can pivot with no bolt to pivot on?

Thanks for the help BTW.

Rixshark

I'll be doing mine shortly as well. Hopefully I can get something that gives out a little more than stock just to keep up with my stereo. Its hilarious watching my volt gauge tick with the turn signal.

supercow

I got my alt on ebay from a newer elantra, I think it was about 30-40 shipped. Just look for pulls from newer elantra's.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-06-Hyund...sQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-Kia-Ri...sQ5fAccessories

edit: btw, if you go that route, get it checked before you install... and don't trust them! lol, I got it checked at autozone with their digital tester and it said bad, then at advanced and theirs said good. (old school style with gauges). My mechanic brother-in-law said that on the digtal one if you mix up the + and - it'll read bad. The alt ran great once I got it in.

Stocker

I toldja it's tight on the mount. Hit it with some penetrating oil and wiggle, it may actually FALL off. Try it.

97DerekTiburon

I'm sorry. I know you told me what to do already. It's just that it's NOT tight on the mount. It rotates like you would as if you're trying to get the belt tight. I still have that question; how do two parts stay stuck together if they butt up against each other but are "unstuck" enough to rotate where they touch (lower bolt mating surface)?

Know what I mean? If the alternator just butts up against the engine block and is then bolted through that point, why would they still be stuck together after the bolt was removed <u>but be able to be rotated as if the bolt was still in but loose?</u>
It rotates at the point where the bolt was, it's not possible for it to be corrosion welded to the block (just stuck) but still able to rotate freely at that point.

Stocker

I've removed and replaced my alternator 2 or 3 times and I'm telling you if the bolts are out and it still rotates it is because the brackets are snug up against each other. There is probably some minor imperfection in the casting on one part catching on the other part, that is pretending to be a hinge. Look over the whole area a couple of times to be sure all the bolts are out, then spray the mount with penetrating oil and wiggle/pull. If they don't separate, use a screwdriver for leverage. Remember, these were machined to be close enough to work, not polished to a mirror so they would slide apart the instant the bolts came out. Also remember, if it fell apart when the bolts were out, it would smash a mechanic's head if he were not ready for the alt. to fall. It may take some prying but there's no secret catch or key or something, it's quite straightforward. fing02.gif

97DerekTiburon

OK, I got out there today and used a block of wood and a dead blow hammer. It came right off and NOW I can see why it was stuck. I didn't see that part of the mounting surface (cast into the block) was sandwiched by the alternator. I didn't see the other side so I assumed it was just one-sided.

I went to that place that rebuilds them and they had no used ones but they did have remanned ones that looked brand new. He charged $90.00 after he bench tested it.

Is that a decent price? Remember it's a 10 minute drive from my house and I paid no shipping. I have a full one-year warrantee too.

BTW, my alternator was cracked in three places. I can't believe it lasted as long as it did.

DTN

90 isn't bad for a rewound alternator. I think autozone charges $200 for the same

Stocker

I paid $300 ish not counting the core charge, so yeah that's pretty good. fing02.gif

97DerekTiburon

Cool! Maybe I should have a side business here? laugh.gif

I paid $39.00 for my fuel injectors. Autozone wanted $73.00 each for the rebuilt ones!