majik

I've got the alternator completely loose, belt is off, but I found the bolt at the bottom with a square head. I can't get it to push through, and it won't turn because of a mark on the alternator that prevent it from turning.

Is it supposed to just push through? I can't get the alternator off!!

Jay-M

thanks to rust and corrosion!!!

that bolt is just a "push through" once you get the nut/washer out from the other side.

wd-40, liquid wrench, etc will be your friend for now... but if not... a blow torch and wd-40 combo will be next... then lastly, if unsuccessful... hammer-time!

majik

I tried a hammer... not enough room to hammer it out.

I'll try the WD-40 in the morning. The alternator rotates all the way from the oil filter up towards the hood. Swings fairly loosely.

6 years, 8 months and 128,000 miles = rust, corrosion, grime = stiffness.

I guess it lasted quite a while... while running two 15" subs all the time without a cap

update: 12:41am

I got the alternator out, the new one in, and everything put back together.

That obviously wasn't my problem. I just wasted $300 on an alternator that wasn't necessary.

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Problem: Battery does not charge after auto --> Manual swap. Voltage sits at 12.2, drops to 12.0 when HID's are turned on and back to 12.2 when turned off.

Running Optima Blue Top (battery died after not being charged after a few trips, so I had it recharged and they said it was in perfect health. Had tested after recharge at 2 separate places, both said it's strong. Battery is not the problem.

HOWEVER, when I held in clutch and toggled shifter left - right a few times, it spiked for a second at 13.0. I then put it in 1st, then 2nd (still in garage, holding in clutch) and it spiked again at 13.4 volts before dropping back down to 12.2.

What's causing this?!?! SOMEBODY PLEASE!!!!

LoonWulf

have you tried running a new power wire over to your battery? if not try that.

Does it do anything when you rev the motor in neutral? Were you having any other problems with electrical? or poor performance?

Dweet

The big thick wire that runs directly from your alternator to your battery (+) terminal is what charges the battery when the car is running... its as simple as that, I'd double check all connections between the battery and alternator and even do a continuity check using the resistance (ohms) setting on a multimeter by touching the battery post and the alternater end of the terminal with the probes. If you go to autozone they can do an alternator test and battery test with everything in the car still... Id probably just do that since they will do all the work for you smile.gif

Quick edit after thinking a bit longer...

Make sure you take it to a car place to test your alternator. *IF* it tests good and your battery tests good.. (again yeah I know), check all of your grounds and make sure everything is grounded properly that you touched in the auto --> manual swap. I believe this could be what is causing the problem.

Jay-M

did you check all of your fuses and the fusible links?

i'm especially pertaining to the 100A fusible link one that is meant for the ALT

let us know

xxxmonoxidechild

i see tons of car's come into the shop with the same issues tons of time's. make sure sure wires arent all nasty style, and double check you battery terminals. more times then not, thats the entire issue, and they usually figure that out after the alt's been swapped.

majik

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (LoonWulf @ May 19 2007, 03:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>have you tried running a new power wire over to your battery? if not try that.

Does it do anything when you rev the motor in neutral? Were you having any other problems with electrical? or poor performance?</div> No problems before swap. After swap, charging problem and brake/tail lights DO NOT WORK. Everything else does.
Battery charging didn't seem to be an issue until a few days after the swap. It could have been immediate, but the Optima could have been holding the charge those few days. <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Dweet @ May 19 2007, 04:24 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>The big thick wire that runs directly from your alternator to your battery (+) terminal is what charges the battery when the car is running... its as simple as that, I'd double check all connections between the battery and alternator and even do a continuity check using the resistance (ohms) setting on a multimeter by touching the battery post and the alternater end of the terminal with the probes. If you go to autozone they can do an alternator test and battery test with everything in the car still... Id probably just do that since they will do all the work for you smile.gif

Quick edit after thinking a bit longer...

Make sure you take it to a car place to test your alternator. *IF* it tests good and your battery tests good.. (again yeah I know), check all of your grounds and make sure everything is grounded properly that you touched in the auto --> manual swap. I believe this could be what is causing the problem.</div> I'm fairly certain now that the battery and alternator are good. I've tried checking all connections and can't find anything. My guess is that I didn't wire something I was supposed to, or I wired something to the wrong wire.

Battery terminals are good, alternator is powered (i can see it spinning inside). Revving up in neutral does nothing.

Dweet

Something has to be hooked up wrong then because the wire goes directly from the alternator to the (+) battery post, there isn't any fuses or anything else in the circuit. Its either a 4awg or 8awg wire. I could be confusing this with my elantra though I only had to replace my tiburon alternator once lol... the brushes broke on it somehow

majik

alright... newest circumstances.

I did switch around some wiring that I was concerned about. I don't think the ECU tap-in was going to a CONSTANT 12v source, so I rewired that straight to the battery.

When I start the car, it goes to 13.6-13.8 ish (about 75% of the time), but if I rev it OR turn the A/C on, it drops to 12.2-12.4

If I let it idle, sometimes it idles high (1,000 or so) especially if I turn the A/C on or something (even after idling 3-5 minutes).


On the opposite, if the RPM's are down (12.2ish) and I rev the engine, they may go up to 13.8 (or they may not). If I move the shifter in neutral side-to-side, the volts will move up and down .1 to .3 volts

it's just plain weird... sometimes it's 13.5, sometimes 12.2. I can't figure out what the deal is. I can't keep it high, but sometimes it stays there on it's own. I haven't moved the car out of the garage yet. I let it idle for 15 minutes yesterday to run the fluids a little, and I shifted through all the gears today and inched it back and forth. Let it run for about 8 minutes. It hasn't left the garage in about 5 months