EnigmaticSoul

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (REDZMAN)</div><div class='quotemain'>Ugh, screw the Bypass Valve.

Just avoid puddles and enjoy the extra HP.

There was a long discussion about this on HA.com a LONG time ago, about how you should NOT connect it directly to the MAF. I don't remember the reasoning, but you should search for it and check it out.</div>

For whatever it's worth, here's the quote from the AEM FAQ:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>The bypass valve may cause a slight loss in power due to the interrupted wall section created by the internal shape of the valve. In dyno testing we have found that the power loss is minimal. The bypass valve offers great security against hydro locking the engine in rainy conditions. If maximum power is the requirement, we suggest that the bypass valve be used in the rainy season and when racing use a coupler hose to make a smooth section where the bypass valve goes.</div>

Sounds to me like the loss of power is minimal, whereas peace of mind is greatly increased. Besides, it's another excuse to take my car apart smile.gif

REDZMAN

Sorry guys, we can have this argument till we are all blue in the face, but the fact is.

Loss of power.

You get a CAI to GAIN power.

If you get a CAI, AVOID PUDDLES AND FLOODED AREAS.

If you are going thru any water deep enough to suck up in your CAI, you need to get a new vehicle, you shouldn't be FORDING RIVERS in your Tib.

wink.gif

Go ahead and get your bypass and install it.

I'll just drive around the water.

HyundaiKitCoupe

oh boy... florida this year. you won't believe it until you see it.

here in Maryland, there's a lot of construction. the surfaces vary. it can be steep and hilly, or flat country. a lot of potholes and a lot of clogged drainages from wet leaves. (we get a millions of leaves per block here) you're garunteed never to stay in one condition. it's really funny, because all the people who wax and wash their fast and furious show cars every day have them sparkling for the first time they own them. later on, like me, they realize, there's nothing one can do about weathering in Maryland.

Florida, i understand the point of waxing your car every month--because it lasts. in Maryland, right after you wax your car, the next day it will look worse than it did before you waxed it. your car endures crow sheit every other block. there are so many cars, you will notice exhaust grease on the back of your car. there's dust from leaves. the leaves get into your car no matter how hard you try to clean your shoes. if you park in a shopping center, 4/10 times, somebody will ding your door or scratch it with a shopping cart. the rain just festers everywhere. infact, after the last hurricane, we got terrential rain which resulted in driving in three inch water everywhere. those show cars won't last. they are bound to go through weathering, rust, scratching, denting... we get tons of branches falling on top of our cars. my f***in roof is dented everywhere (yes i hate it but there's really nothing i can do about it unless i want to spend 3grand on getting the panels replaced) the point is, it depends on the conditions you live in. personally, i'd rather leave my CAI the way it is, because the hp gains are significant. but i know that somewhere down the road, i will hit trouble if i don't get this sucker on--just like the other times i didn't expect, nor want, trouble. that includes my accident with the curb, scratched up rims due to unleveled road surfaces, driving in the worst construction areas resulting in pierced paint, hitting large bumps and potholes unexpectably... you just never know. :x i guess the bypass valve is just a precaution.

KayJai

Guys, keep in mind,... the rubbing into the hood like Java said,... BUT, and this is a BIG BUT!!!
The pipes that connects on either side of the by pass MUST BE STRAIGHT, as in, they must line up straight, they can not be at an angle or off in any way. That's the big BIACTH

Or else, you Bypass WILL BE OPEN all the time, and it's not the filter it's getting the air from at the end, but air is being let in RIGHT at the bypass, like it's on ALL the time, or When you hit bumps,... etc,...

javageek

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (REDZMAN)</div><div class='quotemain'>I'll just drive around the water.</div>

Alot of our roads down here you do not have that option, the entire thing is covered with water. I personally know of someone that drove through no more than two inches of standing water and they ingested water into their engine. The loss's are minimal, you could probably get the same losses if your rubber connecter is off center hooking the CAI to the MAF. At least I am not worried about having to drive around puddles though....

Kevdog

Same here in Phoenix, AZ believe it or not. Since we don't get much rain we don't have drainage on our roads. But when we hit the monsoon, it just goes right across the road up to 1' deep in places. Only way to drive around would be to go into oncoming traffic 8O

It'll be a bypass for me as well (and you're probably talking 0.5 hp at the most).

EnigmaticSoul

I know that this is an old thread, but figured it might be useful for some other newbie that comes after me.

After procrastinating for a few months, I finally got around to installing the Bypass Valve this past weekend. Decided to buck the trend and dispense with the advice with most of the knowledgeable people here and follow the instructions verbatim. Perhaps not the wisest decision, but hey, I've got to make my own mistakes, right? smile.gif

Most of the images I've seen show installing the valve directly between the throttle body and intake. The AEM instructions, however, specifically state the following:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>i) <u>Do not mount the bypass valve between the throttle body and pipe because the vehicle performance will suffer. Additionally, the valve will break at the seam due to high shear forces from engine rocking.</u>

ii) <u>On engines that have an air flow meter, do NOT install the bypass valve between the throttle body and the air flow meter.</u></div>

Moreover, there is an image in the AEM CAI installation guide (not in the bypass install guide) that shows the recommended placement for the valve as follows:

<div align='center'></div>

So, not having a band saw or pipe cutter big enough (couldn't find a pipe cutter anywhere big enough for a 3" tube), out comes the dremel. Figured if I was careful, it should be okay. It was certainly a leap of faith to start cutting through my not-cheap pipe, though. Anyway, after much ado, managed to cut out a chunk of the pipe. Word to the wise: Don't use a rechargeable/cordless dremel like I did (it was the only one I had available at the time) - it took about three, maybe four full charges to make it all the way through. Makes it slow going when you have to stop after half an hour, wait three hours, then start again.

Everything seems to be working fine now. Here are a couple of shots of my butchery:
<div align='center'>
</div>

Oh, and you can just make out the scratch that my positive battery connector made against the side of the pipe, too... oops, should have been more careful with that.

I haven't noticed any real performance loss, though I did notice that the valve seems to muffle the sound somewhat. Whereas it used to growl in second under hard acceleration, it now sounds more like the stock purr. Could be good or bad, depends on your point of view, I guess. That is, of course, unless I completely screwed up and it's now sucking air through a badly connected hose clamp or something.

Anyway, that's my story, hope it's helpful to someone else out there.

Oh, and the other lesson learned from this project was this: Some people do not seem to appreciate aluminum filings in their dish washer. Go figure.

djshaggy

All I see are red X's

I've hosted pics for you.