Sousake Sagara

Stage 3 is a button clutch

Stage 3 Extra Heavy Duty 5 Puck Clutch Kit - EXE-6986-RC
- 215 mm clutch kit
- 650 kg clamping pressure
- 5 Puck Button Clutch


Button clutches are very hard to drive on the road. Not suited for stop/start traffic. It's overkill in your situation. See if your mate can hook you up with a cheap stage 1.

Mad_john

what can your friend get in the way of multi-plate systems PM me..

Osv4

Hmm..if stage3 is harder to drive then yeah no point..


Mad_john ill ask him, but he still hasnt got back to me an accurate price for my clutch, so as soon as he does that ill ask him about it and PM you wink1.gif

DTN

you can get an OEM valeo shipped to your door from ebay. $70.

There is no reason to pay 5x the ammount of money for something that will fail in 3-6 years unless you buy a stage 2-4.

Osv4

hmm..maybe, but my friend wrecked his clutch in about 2000kms, ive got no idea how he drives but he did...So wouldnt the heavy duty, even if its stage 1 or 2 hold longer?

Alex01tib

Stages dont = longevity.

Companies use stages to indicate which power rating their clutch will hold compared to other clutches in their lineup. Example, for the purposes of our cars stage 1 would be stock or near stock, stage 2 would be small F/I / High N/A, stage 3+ is different levels of F/I.

Theres no real quantitative power number attributed to each stage number since each manufacturer is different but it "usually" goes something like this (for our cars)

100-140whp stock/stage 1, 140-250 stage 2, 250-350 stage 3, ect ect.

Just to give you an idea.

Usually racing clutches wear out faster, but there are aftermarket clutches with OEM power rating designed to last longer, but these would be just listed under OEM type or "stage 1"

As far as you not thinking it was your clutch because of only first being the problem, I only had the stock clutch slip when trying to launch first.

It got to the point were i couldnt burnout, then couldnt peel out, then couldnt squeak. (elapsed time ~5-6 months)

I have a video of me trying to do a burnout one last time before i changed the clutch, it was funny, it just seemed like i was feathering the clutch or revving the engine lol.

But i was also pushing a "little" more power than stock...

Osv4

Yeah.. well i kinda understood that about the clutches, anyway thanks for the info alex wink1.gif and all others ofc. wink1.gif


Well i think it will be my clutch, today i went a bit hard on first gear and i could smell something burning aftawards, so i think it will be my clutch, it also lost the grip when letting it out, it doesnt release until almost its 3/4 out so it kind of jumps when i do that, but oh well..i think i can hold this for another few months and see how it goes then.. wink1.gif

BlizagaXx

So... Are you saying that if we plan on doing like any performance to our tibs, to just go stage 2, or a good stage 1? Also, will replacing the disc fix a slipping clutch, and can i use a stage 2 disc in a stock clutch?


Sorry for all the questions... >.<

Alex01tib

If you have a decent amount of N/A, it wouldnt hurt to go with a stage 2, but you most likely wont have a problem with a stage 1 unless you beat the hell out of it, but then again youd have that with a higher power rating.

As long as your PP and Flywheel were in good shape a disk swap SHOULD fix a slipping clutch, but your better off swapping it..

And the disk does'nt supply the clamping force, thats the pressure plate, so if it was a 6 puck it would bite a little harder when you released the clutch but it wouldnt hold any more power...

geesmith

Like Alex said it's the spring tension that increases as the clutches get 'tougher'. I was going to suggest you try accelerating from around 30 mph in 4th but I don't think that's needed anymore if you can smell the clutch.
To make it last as long as possible you need to make sure its gripped before flooring the pedal.....fit two extra car mats to stop you flooring it (j/k). Easy as poss off the line and clutch engaged fully before pressing much power into it.
If it starts to slip a lot and slips all over the place, stop using it until you get it fixed. Slipping the clutch a lot can cook the input shaft on the gearbox so the metal gets re-tempered and brittle. Then when the new clutch starts transmitting torq thru it, it can snap....so now the transmission needs to come out again.
I promise this can happen. Just be glad to have wheels for a while until you get this replaced.

Also. . . you bought the car at 65k and now it's up to 107k....all on a stock clutch that possibly wasn't new when you bought it.....42k minimum from a stock clutch. I'd like to bet that you went searching for the new power and creamed what was left of an old clutch....
What I'm saying is do you need to spend more than the price of a stock clutch? If you added lots of power yeah, otherwise you should see a good deal of life from a stocker...just thinking of your budget.smile.gif


With regard to the slipping clutch question.....if it's een slipping a lot the extra heat can also weaken the springs so it doesnt push as hard on the new plate....
Always replace all the clutch, throw out bearing and all. You don't need a partly worn component wearing out your new bits. It's only the cost of buying the parts. The whole tranny has to come out either way..