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1.8 Cams, Ecu, Bbtb

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Old 11-21-2006, 04:55 PM
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if you would have searched you would realize people replace the 1.8 intake cam only.

im pretty sure the stock tb is 54mm, but either way, 58 is still better. install it..

the people you talk to about ECUs don't know as much as they think they do. you can read lots of topics about our ECUs learning curve, how to reset it, etc.

if you are that worried about tuning, then go standalone or piggyback and get it tuned. there is no racing ECU for our cars, and there is no powerchip. resetting the ECU WILL help, but not as well as tuning it exactly how you want it like you could with an smt6 or something.

i really don't want to turn this into a "how our ECU works" thread because there are already a couple of those and it's not conceptually very hard to understand. the ECU is not stupid. it recognizes when it has more air, and compensates by giving more fuel. this is why you can install a cold air intake and feel gains, or any n/a bolt-on for that matter.

stop listening to people who don't know what they're talking about and do some research on these forums by reading and talking to people who DO know what they're talking about and have proved it.
Old 11-21-2006, 05:06 PM
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^ the thing is i did talk to people who know, they are racers and mechanics who work with this stuff everyday, none of them work with hyundais so unless our cars ECU is somewhat different to other cars then ok..

Well u say there is not powerchip Click Here to find out that there is.

Also Click Here and look up the RD1, it says 50mm original size and they sell the 57mm ones..
Old 11-21-2006, 05:06 PM
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Osv4: For what it's worth, my stock TB was 53mm at the butterfly wink1.gif

The stock ECU will adjust to the 1.8L cam & BBTB with no issues but a piggyback will not hurt if you are wanting to tune the fuel trims a little. As Zoned said, the Beta motor runs pig-rich from the factory.

If you decide to go for lumpier - say 270deg & higher - cams (K-spec/ RPW/ etc...) then it would be best to go standalone with the ECU as the stock one will not cope.

There is a Powerchip but it cannot be re-tuned & is only good if you have no mods & if you never plan to mod your car. Superchips offer something similar & the Uni-chip can be re-tuned on a dyno by someone with the right software.
Old 11-21-2006, 05:09 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Osv4 @ Nov 21 2006, 04:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I thought our cars have two cams, dont we replace them both?</div>

We do have 2 cams (DOHC = Dual Overhead Cams), but the only different ones for the Beta 1 (OEM) are the XD intake cam and the 1.8L Intake cam. The exhaust cams are identical.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>How is it 54mm? RD1 Stock one is 50mm, only GKs have 54mm.</div>

Whomever told you this is wrong, or you guys have a smaller TB in Aussieland. The stock TB on the Beta 1 is 54MM. It can be bored out to 58MM without hitting the water jackets or causing damage.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Ok if you say you dont need new ecu for these upgrades, why most of the people i talk to say that just replacing the parts wont do much good, cos u need to change settings in the ECU and because the stock ECU is "locked up" u have to get a new one that lets u change settings and do proper tuning.. And ive spoken to people that do race and all said the same thing..so i dunno who is right here..</div>

Well, they don't know what they are talking about, especially when it comes to Hyundai's. Every car, for the last several years, has extensive and complicated computer systems to control the engine. For example, you have a MAF or MAP sensor that tells the engine how much air is flowing into the engine. The Air Temperature Sensor tells it the temperature. The ECU uses these measurements to calculate the density of the air and the amount of fuel needed to run the engine at a safe level.

The ECU will learn these on it's own over time. When it reads through the o2 sensors that you are running too lean or too rich, it will try to richen or lean out the fuel mixture a bit to get the readings where they are supposed to be. Resetting your ECU speeds up this process, hence why it's often recommended.

If engines didn't run this way, you'd have to be mechanically adjusting stuff in the engine bay all the time. This is why you can get your idle 'close' with the screw and the ECU will handle the rest.

Now, this all is only applicable to a stock or lightly to moderately modified engine. When you get beyond the capabilities of the OEM ECU to adjust to the changes, then it's time to go to a piggyback (works with the ECU and adjusts the signals coming to and from it in order to keep the engine properly running), or a replacement system like a Haltec (fully tunable and replaces your ECU).
And sorry of this thread that was 'discussed hundrends of times', my bad for not searching hard enough and reading 40 posts for 5hours looking for one simple explanation, if i need to replace my stock ecu..

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (zoned019 @ Nov 21 2006, 04:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>and there is no powerchip. resetting the ECU WILL help, but not as well as tuning it exactly how you want it like you could with an smt6 or something.</div>

There IS a powerchip for us actually, it just doesn't work very well.
Old 11-21-2006, 05:16 PM
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Thanks REDZ and all others who bothered to reply to my thread, i just needed good facts so i can argue with my dad and people that say u need a new ECU..Now i know how it learns and that it can adjust the settings by itself. For some reason i thought that ECU is a stupid machine that does whatever it was programmed to do witout 'thinking' on its own..But its all good now, so thanks for your help guys!
Old 11-21-2006, 05:20 PM
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the worst thing you could do is try and correct these people.....
Old 11-21-2006, 05:21 PM
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Well, it IS programmed, but it's got a curve to it. It auto adjusts settings to keep readings in that curve.

Remember, some of us have been working on RD's for awhile, we know what we are talking about most of the time.

THis reminds me of when I put my airram on. My dad came over to help me work on the car and once we got the TB mounted, the airram on and all the hoses hooked up and stuff I asked him, "Dad, was that or was that not the biggest PITA you've ever had with a intake manifold?"

He said, "Heck, that was the easy part, now we have to get it running."

Realize that my dad is in his mid to late 50's and works on Model T's and older muscle cars.

I laughed, started the car up, and it idled up at about 4K RPM's.

He said, "Okay, so what do we do next?" Thinking there was a big process ahead.

I opened the fuze box, popped up the "Power Connector" for about 15 seconds with the key on run, pumped the brakes, pushed the connector back down and started the car.

It idled just about perfectly.

He about shit himself.


THings have changed...
Old 11-21-2006, 05:48 PM
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^^ zoned i wont be tryin to say that they are wrong, cos they are right, if u want to proper tune it u cant do it with the stock ECU, but it can adjust to the small changes..


Yeah Redz but see ur dad was working on old school, my dad was racing with 1999+ build cars, his friend race the integra Type-R and they said that the ECU needs to be upgraded, so i cant see that these cars wouldnt have the good ECU that can adjust the settings..i think what they want to say is that to achieve maximum potential it needs to be tunned properly..Or am i wrong again..


Now just a quick one..I search bout how to reset my ECU, but just want to see if i gathered the right way after readin 15 replys. So i basicly discconect the negative terminal of the battery, jump into the car and press the brake a few times? then leave it for 15mins and connect the battery and thats it?
Old 11-21-2006, 06:04 PM
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^ That should do it. Also, how you drive the car straight afterwards (first 15-30 minutes) will determine how "aggressively" the ECU will set itself.
Old 11-21-2006, 07:05 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (REDZMAN @ Nov 22 2006, 09:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Whomever told you this is wrong, or you guys have a smaller TB in Aussieland. The stock TB on the Beta 1 is 54MM.</div>
Well REDZ, we must have a smaller TB because it measures 53mm trust me on that. However PSC is wrong about the 50mm TB part.



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