~changed Power Steering Fluid Today~
11-02-2006, 04:55 PM
#11
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tibby01 @ Oct 30 2006, 07:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>its a shitty process, and you will spill a little bit(atleast doing it the only way i knew how).
do you think having a smaller crank pulley would cause power steering belt to squeek and the pump to pulsate when its cold? i bleed the living hell out of it so i dont htink its that. maybe my belt is too loose.</div>
Tibby to cure the power steering belt from squeeking you have to tighten the belt extremely hard from where it goes around the alternator. The squeeking means its not getting enough electic power. I know this because I had a mechanic explain it to me. The belts tend to stretch more in the cold also. So loosen that alternator and pull it form the engine and tighten. It should cure that problem if it doesnt then new fluid is needed. Again this information comes from an ACT mechanic.
Hopefully I explain myself well enough. Also, I should also change my ps fluid tongue.gif
do you think having a smaller crank pulley would cause power steering belt to squeek and the pump to pulsate when its cold? i bleed the living hell out of it so i dont htink its that. maybe my belt is too loose.</div>
Tibby to cure the power steering belt from squeeking you have to tighten the belt extremely hard from where it goes around the alternator. The squeeking means its not getting enough electic power. I know this because I had a mechanic explain it to me. The belts tend to stretch more in the cold also. So loosen that alternator and pull it form the engine and tighten. It should cure that problem if it doesnt then new fluid is needed. Again this information comes from an ACT mechanic.
Hopefully I explain myself well enough. Also, I should also change my ps fluid tongue.gif
11-02-2006, 05:09 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Blue Blaze @ Nov 2 2006, 07:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Tibby to cure the power steering belt from squeeking you have to tighten the belt extremely hard from where it goes around the alternator.</div>
That's a different belt.
And the squeaking has nothing to do with electrical power.
That's a different belt.
And the squeaking has nothing to do with electrical power.
11-02-2006, 09:24 PM
#14
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Vehicle: 01 Tiburon SE
its ATF not reg power steering fluid, cause when i worked in a lube shop we split all cars into 3 ps flushs, honda, gm, and ford
ours goes with honda and its pink and the more expensive one
i personally didnt notice to much of a change and that was from being pretty dam dark to a nice bright pink
ours goes with honda and its pink and the more expensive one
i personally didnt notice to much of a change and that was from being pretty dam dark to a nice bright pink
11-03-2006, 08:47 AM
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Vehicle: 2000 Tiburon
word, how about some pics from good old HMAservice.com
REPLACING POWER STEERING FLUID
Jack up the front of the car and support with rigid racks.
Disconnect the return hose from the oil reservoir and plug the oil reservoir.
Connect a hose to the disconnected return hose, and drain the oil into a container.
Disconnect the high-tension cable at the ignition coil side. While operating the starter motor intermittently, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then to the right several times to drain the fluid.
Connect the return hoses, then fill the oil reservoir up to the "MAX" level with the specified fluid. Power steering fluid: AFT DEXRONII type or TEXAMATIC DEXRONII Total quantity: Approx. 0.9 liter (0.95 qts)
Bleed the system.
AIR BLEEDING
Fill the power steering fluid reservoir up to the "MAX" position with specified fluid.
Jack up the front wheels.
Disconnect the ignition coil high tension cable, and then, while operating the starter motor intermittently (for 15 to 20 seconds), turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then to the right five or six times.
NOTE
During air bleeding, replenish the fluid supply so that the level does not fall below the lower position of the filter.
If air bleeding is done while the vehicle is idling, the air will be broken up and absorbed into the fluid. Be sure to do the bleeding only while cranking.
Connect the high tension cable, and then start the engine (idling).
Turn the steering wheel to the left and then to the right, until there are no air bubbles in the oil reservoir.
NOTE
Do not hold the steering wheel turned all the way to either stop for longer than ten seconds.
Confirm that the fluid is not milky, and that the level is up between "MAX" and "MIN" marks on the reservoir.
Check that there is little change in the fluid level when the steering wheel is turned left and right.
NOTE
If fluid level changes up and down considerably when the steering wheel is turned or fluid overflows from the reservoir and the engine is stopped, air bleeding is not enough. Air bleeding should be done gain.
If air bleeding is not enough, moan noise from the pump becomes more strident and air in the system will shorten the life of the pump and other parts.
CHECKING POWER STEERING BELT TENSION
Depress the V-belt by applying a pressure of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lb) at the specified point, and measure the deflection to confirm that it is within the standard value.
SPECIFICATION
V-belt deflection..... 6-9 mm (0.24-0.35 in)
To adjust the belt tension, loosen the oil pump mounting bolts, move the oil pump, and then retighten the bolts.
OIL PUMP PRESSURE TEST
Disconnect the pressure hose from the oil pump. Connect the special tool between the oil pump and pressure hose as illustrated.
Bleed the air, and then star the engine and turn the steering wheel several times so that the fluid temperature rises to approximately 50°C (122°F).
Increase the engine speed to 1,000 rpm.
Close the shut-off valve of the special tool and measure the fluid pressure to confirm that it is within the standard value range.
Oil pump relief pressure [Standard value]..... 6.1-6.6 MPa (62-67 kg/cm2, 882-953 psi)
CAUTION
Do not keep the shut-off valve on the pressure gauge closed for no more than ten seconds.
Remove the special tools, and tighten the pressure hose to the specified torque.
SPECIFICATION
Pressure hose..... 55-65 Nm (550-650 kg.cm, 40.6-47.9 lb.ft)
REPLACING POWER STEERING FLUID
Jack up the front of the car and support with rigid racks.
Disconnect the return hose from the oil reservoir and plug the oil reservoir.
Connect a hose to the disconnected return hose, and drain the oil into a container.
Disconnect the high-tension cable at the ignition coil side. While operating the starter motor intermittently, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then to the right several times to drain the fluid.
Connect the return hoses, then fill the oil reservoir up to the "MAX" level with the specified fluid. Power steering fluid: AFT DEXRONII type or TEXAMATIC DEXRONII Total quantity: Approx. 0.9 liter (0.95 qts)
Bleed the system.
AIR BLEEDING
Fill the power steering fluid reservoir up to the "MAX" position with specified fluid.
Jack up the front wheels.
Disconnect the ignition coil high tension cable, and then, while operating the starter motor intermittently (for 15 to 20 seconds), turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then to the right five or six times.
NOTE
During air bleeding, replenish the fluid supply so that the level does not fall below the lower position of the filter.
If air bleeding is done while the vehicle is idling, the air will be broken up and absorbed into the fluid. Be sure to do the bleeding only while cranking.
Connect the high tension cable, and then start the engine (idling).
Turn the steering wheel to the left and then to the right, until there are no air bubbles in the oil reservoir.
NOTE
Do not hold the steering wheel turned all the way to either stop for longer than ten seconds.
Confirm that the fluid is not milky, and that the level is up between "MAX" and "MIN" marks on the reservoir.
Check that there is little change in the fluid level when the steering wheel is turned left and right.
NOTE
If fluid level changes up and down considerably when the steering wheel is turned or fluid overflows from the reservoir and the engine is stopped, air bleeding is not enough. Air bleeding should be done gain.
If air bleeding is not enough, moan noise from the pump becomes more strident and air in the system will shorten the life of the pump and other parts.
CHECKING POWER STEERING BELT TENSION
Depress the V-belt by applying a pressure of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lb) at the specified point, and measure the deflection to confirm that it is within the standard value.
SPECIFICATION
V-belt deflection..... 6-9 mm (0.24-0.35 in)
To adjust the belt tension, loosen the oil pump mounting bolts, move the oil pump, and then retighten the bolts.
OIL PUMP PRESSURE TEST
Disconnect the pressure hose from the oil pump. Connect the special tool between the oil pump and pressure hose as illustrated.
Bleed the air, and then star the engine and turn the steering wheel several times so that the fluid temperature rises to approximately 50°C (122°F).
Increase the engine speed to 1,000 rpm.
Close the shut-off valve of the special tool and measure the fluid pressure to confirm that it is within the standard value range.
Oil pump relief pressure [Standard value]..... 6.1-6.6 MPa (62-67 kg/cm2, 882-953 psi)
CAUTION
Do not keep the shut-off valve on the pressure gauge closed for no more than ten seconds.
Remove the special tools, and tighten the pressure hose to the specified torque.
SPECIFICATION
Pressure hose..... 55-65 Nm (550-650 kg.cm, 40.6-47.9 lb.ft)
11-03-2006, 12:22 PM
#17
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i used power steering fluid. no worries though, ill just run it. people have been using ATF fluid in normal PS systems for years. the fluids are basically the same, just the ATF has more of a detergant base to it.
11-03-2006, 02:13 PM
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Well, if you notice any leaking around the seal, you'll know to switch back. wink1.gif More of a concern for me would be the effect of a substantially different viscosity at operating temperature. Maybe it's a non-issue. Personally, I'm returning the PS fluid I bought before researching it, and getting the right stuff.
11-03-2006, 04:25 PM
#19
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^^
i agree, if u hadnt allready of changed it, i would definitly use the correct stuff. but i just made the mess once, i really dont want to do it again since i feel comfortable enough with what i put in. (if that makes sense)
i agree, if u hadnt allready of changed it, i would definitly use the correct stuff. but i just made the mess once, i really dont want to do it again since i feel comfortable enough with what i put in. (if that makes sense)
06-23-2007, 04:15 AM
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Vehicle: 2006 Pontiac GTO
I know this is an old thread, but I changed the ps fluid yesterday and wanted to share how I did it without spilling more than a couple of drops:
Slide the PS fluid tank out of its bracket, so you can move it freely.
Remove the clamp holding the SUCTION hose on the ps pump, and remove the hose (do this with a paper towel in your hand); as soon as it pops out, immediately hold it pointing up and at a higher level than the ps pump is. No fluid should spill that way. Bring in a plastic cup and slowly point the hose towards it and move it down. Change the cup once its filled. You can also shake and move the ps tank around so you get everything that's in there. Plug the hose back. Now you are where you started except the tank is empty and you can continue with doing what webtech says without making a mess.
Slide the PS fluid tank out of its bracket, so you can move it freely.
Remove the clamp holding the SUCTION hose on the ps pump, and remove the hose (do this with a paper towel in your hand); as soon as it pops out, immediately hold it pointing up and at a higher level than the ps pump is. No fluid should spill that way. Bring in a plastic cup and slowly point the hose towards it and move it down. Change the cup once its filled. You can also shake and move the ps tank around so you get everything that's in there. Plug the hose back. Now you are where you started except the tank is empty and you can continue with doing what webtech says without making a mess.