Is it true that to install this thing all you do is plug it in your cigarette lighter. Wouldn't you have to hook it up to your ECU or to something other than just a simple plug into a 12v outlet. please tell me if that's all it takes or how long it takes to install it

 

Plz go to the G-Tech page and read how it works.

All you need to to is plug it into your cigarette lighter and put in your ACCURATE vehicle weight (plus driver, plus audio equipment, plus additional weight from aftermarket wheels/tires/brakes...etc).

They are reasonably accurate assuming you program in the accurate weight and are on a perfectly level section of road.

 

they are completely INaccurate. when i was in fl, with nice straight, flat roads, i g-teched my car before and after the install of the bbtb. the g-tech said i gained 13 real-world hp. i say that because, if it were accurate, it would actually calculate whp + correct for every other force acting on your car. i g-teched it all in the same night, within an hour of each run. this was with a weight of 2,900 pounds entered. eitherway, it's highly inaccurate in that way. as far as pure 1/4 mile or 0-60, it's more accurate in the 1/4; for me, it usually registered 60mph around 70, and my speedo isn't THAT inaccurate. there are several, much better products out there. they're more expensive, but they are much more accurate and have more features. furthermore, i would stay away from the new g-tech, given my experience. i had the previous generation g-tech. but for the $250 tesla wants for the g-tech pro comp, i'd rather spend $300+ on a much better unit. all of these units accomplish performance measurements by using and accelerometer, which measure g forces and converts that into whatever measurement you're measuring. if you have money, spend the 10 grand on the v-box that car and driver uses. it uses gps to measure parameters of the cars performance. wink

[ February 17, 2003, 06:14 PM: Message edited by: turbulence ]

 

The reason why you got such in-accurate readings with the G-Tech is because you put in in-accurate weight.

You need to account for ALL weight. That means gas. If you test with a full tank of gas, then test with a nearly empty tank of gas, it will show a 5-10 WHP gain...just from having no gas in the car.

They GTech can also not compensate for wind, downhill/uphill roads, etc..etc..

For the price of the item, get a couple of dynos done before and after your mods and collect some REAL data.

But if you really want to "play"...Then data you get out of them is reasonably accurate, assuming you give it accurate data.

 

I would have to say they are fairly accurate as Random has stated. Its just a matter of getting your total gross vehicle weight. I had a friend who owned a 1st gen G-tech and went to the track and the times were +/- 1/10th of a sec. I was impressed. I can only expect better accuracy with the 2nd gen G-tech due to it's more precise technology and like Random said, go to their website to see how they work. I like them. tongue.gif

 

yeah, but how inaccurate was the weight i entered? if it were +-200 pounds, i don't think that the reading would have been too different. let's say my true weight were 3100 pounds, the gtech still would have registered a hp reading too high, probably somewhere around 8hp. that's way too much for just a bbtb w/o the bim. like i said, i think the gtech is accurate for 1/4 mile and 0-60 times, but not for hp readings. furthermore, the gtech manual DID say, however, that heat could affect its performance, and we all know how hot florida can be, so that my have had something to do with it.

 

The real trick with G-tech and similar devices is in the set-up. They have been shown to be quite accurate when the data entered is correct and the conditions are appropiate...level ground like Random said. The 200 lbs would make a huge difference. Example: a stock 2.0 that weighs 2650 lbs, and does the 1/4 mile in 16.4. The same car,
driver and conditions, with an extra
200 lbs would get more like 16.84.
Assuming the 2.0 has a whp of 115
it would require 8.62 additional hp to get it back to the original 16.4.
So, IF I'm reading and understanding your post correctly, the g-tech would have shown you a difference of 8 whp...if you had entered the correct weight.
I may be mis-understanding your
original experiment though.

[ February 20, 2003, 01:37 AM: Message edited by: Maxx ]

 

no, actually, you answered my question. i know how important weight is, i just didn't think 200 pounds would make that much of a difference. but like i said, the road was flat, i leveled the g-tech, so it was probably the weight.

 

If you want an accurate weight mesurement, find a place that sells bulk landscaping rock/sand, etc. They should have a drive on scale that should be fairly accurate since it has to be tested regularly because costs are determined via the scale.
And if you found one like I did, they leave the scale on at night and you can just pull up.

 

Also did you make several runs? Both before and after the mods?

The gtech I used is the 1st gen and occasionally it just "freaks out" and gives weird times. Do 3 runs and if they all come out nearly the same, then use the average of the 3. If one is wildly different, then throw it out and do another.

Also, the 0-60 time takes a second or two to come up, so you will go past 60 before it registers on the display.

My friends Turbo Supra got a 0-60 of 5.6, 5.7, and 6.0 (bad launch). These match the numbers he should be getting smile.gif His race Mustang got around 6.0 .

I plan on using it for before and after when I get my CAI and exhaust this summer